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  • If you had an original it could be recast. You need a hobbiest that's into backyard casting. Jim

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    • til gate stuff

      The upper hinges are different than the bottom. There was an upper tailgate on ebay - listed at 50 bucks - it did not last long , looked decent. It would be a lot of work to make the hinges. fastest way might be to make them from foam and have them cast at a foundry .
      IMG_1225.JPG
      This area is 2 inches
      IMG_1224.JPG
      The distance from the base to the centre of the hole is 1.25 on one end and 1.5 on the other.
      From the base to the mushroom is .5

      Comment


      • another shot

        IMG_1222.JPG

        1.6 x 2.675 screw holes are 3/8NC. mushrooms out about .200 strong.
        These are spares. One of the holes is hogged out. If you are desperate PM me with an offer.
        Unless you have access to an engraver and could make me a custom data plate on brass. I would be all over that:-)
        Odd thing here is the hole is not parallel with the straight edge. It runs at an angle, pretty much with what you see poking over the top. The bottom edge of the pin hole lines up with the straight edge on the low side. I can not measure it accurately but it looks like .175 higher on the high side.
        Hole spacing 2x.850 oc.

        Comment


        • Is the hole angled like that because it's for a left or right side? Since the tailgate curves a bit, it would seem to make sense, but I've never seen one up close.

          As for castings, there are a number of places around the country that will make one-off castings from originals. Cattail Foundry in PA is the first that comes to mind, and they are very reasonably priced. I've never used them, but I know several people that have and they are great to work with. You can find a list of small foundries at http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/FoundrySources.ashx

          Good luck with the project.
          Greg Coffin
          Unrepentant Dodge Enthusiast

          1951 Dodge M37 - Bone Stock
          1958 Dodge M37 - Ex-Forest Service Brush Truck
          1962 M37-B1 - Work in Progress
          1962 Dodge WM300 Power Wagon - Factory 251, 4.89s
          1944/1957 Dodge WM500T 6x6 Power Wagon - LA318-3, NP435, 5.83s, Power Steering, Undercab Power Brakes
          1974 Dodge W200 - 360/727, Factory Sno-Fighter Package

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          • Casting

            Yes each side is unique or a mirror image of the other.
            It is off angle in two directions. It took me awhile to figure out why . The lower hinge bracket slopes in. To line up with the far side the hinge pin hole is drilled at an angle when looking from the top as well as drilled at an angle when viewed from the rear. I use a long piece of drill rod to line up door hinges. Once I have the hinges parallel on the door I adjust the other half to line up with the hinges. Once everything closes and fits I tighten the bolts and if its still fits I then pull the rod and put in the door pins. Works most of the time.

            Bruce

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            • Value

              Originally posted by fiverman View Post
              Hi all, I have enjoyed reading this thread quite awhile now. I have a 43 wc53, unfortunately I'm simply unable to do the restoration I had hoped for. I want to put it up for sale, but thought I'd get some input on value, I want to price reasonably and for an enthusiast. I value all that I have read and think that you're all such great guys for sharing insight to all things Carryall.

              What I have:

              90% there, wood bed is gone, rust is surprisingly not too bad, door sills are gone,but have good doors. tailgate and hatch is (of course) damaged. roof has sheet metal insert with a million screws it, motor ran about 5 years ago (original, maybe but no serial #'s on it) I put oil in spark plug holes to keep it preserved, hopefully. has a heater, batt. cover running boards, front seat frame. generally straight sheet metal. I don't think I have enough posts to do pics, maybe someone could host? Clear OR title

              Thanks for your time guys

              sincerely Pete Olson
              Hi Pete I've been following this thread too, along with several others. I'm currently trying to finish up a 48 FFPW, getting close. One of three 1st series I own. I'm very interested in your Carry All. I've sent a couple of emails through this site to your fiverman. Please feel free to call or email me back so we can discuss. Thanks Rich (ole henry)
              '47 WDX
              '49 B-1 PW
              1970 Dodge Cornet
              1998 2500 SLT 12 Valve Cummins

              Comment


              • Thanks for the information Bruce. I hadn't realized the off angles on the hinge pin lines until the pictures, although now it seems obvious. The other dimensions are certainly helpful. Thanks for taking the time.
                The only data plates I've ever come across are at vintagepowerwagons but only in aluminum. Listed under "parts"-"category 18 body"-end of the list>
                Thanks again

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                • value wc53

                  Originally posted by ole henry View Post
                  Hi Pete I've been following this thread too, along with several others. I'm currently trying to finish up a 48 FFPW, getting close. One of three 1st series I own. I'm very interested in your Carry All. I've sent a couple of emails through this site to your fiverman. Please feel free to call or email me back so we can discuss. Thanks Rich (ole henry)
                  I can't seem to get into personal messages, to see your emails. I'm just going to give you my regular email. (I know I probably shouldn't, privacy, blah blah blah) but I'd really like to hear from you.

                  jaolson.salem@gmail.com

                  Comment


                  • Peters Carryall pictures

                    photos 3306.jpg

                    photos 3312.jpg

                    photos 3355.jpgHe sent a few but these are the only ones small enough to load

                    having a bit of a chuckle, because the ones here are quite large photos of smaller stuff . Great reference picture of the rear latch assemble.

                    Comment


                    • vtunderground53 when spring gets here in Ohio my son and I will be doing some backyard foundry work. We've only worked in aluminum so far but plan to do brass this year. You could make a mold from an original, or I could and then I'll cast it. Jim

                      Comment


                      • Jim, thanks for the offer. I'm hoping that near springtime I'll have some primer on this thing and be putting around. I'm going to try and fab something up with the info from Bruce and see what happens. Historic accuracy isn't a factor on my rig, although close is nice. Good luck with your foundry work. I'd like to try that myself sometime.

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                        • big pics lol

                          Originally posted by Bruce in BC View Post
                          [ATTACH]9959[/ATTACH]

                          [ATTACH]9960[/ATTACH]

                          [ATTACH]9961[/ATTACH]He sent a few but these are the only ones small enough to load

                          having a bit of a chuckle, because the ones here are quite large photos of smaller stuff . Great reference picture of the rear latch assemble.
                          Sorry about the pics, I didn't know they would be different sizes, I'm not real technologically adept. Guess I'll have to get my tech wizard son to help!

                          Comment


                          • wc53value

                            Originally posted by fiverman View Post
                            Sorry about the pics, I didn't know they would be different sizes, I'm not real technologically adept. Guess I'll have to get my tech wizard son to help!
                            thanks for the help, Bruce in B.C.. Carryall is sold

                            Comment


                            • door glass install

                              Got the door glass installed , rolled up and down nicely but a bit tight. Might be because the window felt is new or too small. Lots to do yet. I did not have the window sweep that goes along the lower edge of the window opening. The felt needs to be adjusted and the bottom sides glued in place. The door seal needs to be found and glued in place. Top and bottom door wedges need to be installed. There is still some body and paintwork left to do and the hinge pin problem needs to be felt with. The reason the door is upside down is to help keep the top felt in place as the glue attempts to dry. Gravity and the force of the window regulator should help with that.
                              IMG_1226.JPG

                              The big issue is finding many of the parts for the drivers door. I have looked all over the shop and can not find the drivers side window regulator. Also the forward adjustable window channel seems to have gone AWOL. Nice thing is as the truck goes back together there are less parts in the shop and less to search through.
                              Of course i had to do the whole thing twice. I needed to get one rod snapped in place. To do so the window winder had to come back out, along with the forward track and the window was rotated to gain access.

                              (1) All the door mechanism is put in place
                              (2) Window is installed through the opening, rotated and moved to the top.
                              (3) window regulator is screwed in place and the arms rotated to the lowest position
                              (4) lower the window and install the arms on the track, then raise the window and install the blocking or stop bolts.
                              (5) Adjust as necessary.

                              Comment


                              • seats

                                picked up some Corbeau seats. Not my first choice but any of the other suspension seats that I would consider using would have run over 2 grand Canadian. IMG_1235.JPG
                                First I needed to find a way to attach the Corbeau seats to the TJ seat bases. I made these adapters. The front worked out quite nicely . The same bracket almost worked for the rear, but several issues prevented using it. For the rear I resorted to two tabs that will do the job. As usual the part will not be seen and no one will know the time it took to create it.
                                IMG_1236.jpg Lots going on here. The height needs to be checked , distance to the steering wheel needs to be taken in to consideration ,seat base angle and distance to the pedal from the seat base and steering wheel will need tweaking too. I know the pedals need to go closer to the firewall, seat of the pants calculation about 1 to 1.5 inches. The TJ floor is convoluted and does not match the Carryall floor. It will take eight separate pieces to get the TJ seat base to work in the Carryall.
                                I believe the optimal angle for the back of a seat is 100 to 110 degrees. I have no idea what angle works best for the seat cushion.
                                Anyone else doing anything to their rigs? Cleaning the shop? Buying parts?

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