Restorable???

[Bruce]

Blown away by the red!

[JReed]

Fortunately for me, my step-son is doing the paint/body and he is willing to put in 8 hours of buffing on each bedside to create something that looks like a red mirror. I have high hopes of getting it all back together by fall. Ha Ha!

It looks really good Tim. Those first series beds are definitely more forgiving when it comes to wet sanding and buffing. The embossing on the second and third series makes them a bit more work. I always wonder if thats why you only see first series boxes on the Legacy PW's. Easier to get the paint flat and cost a bit less too. Anyway, it looks like a red mirror to me, looks great.

[JReed]

I also meant to ask how you mounted the rear bumperettes? It's something I've wanted to do on my WM300, but I haven't spent the time to figure it out. Are they from an M37 or WC? I like being able to drop the tailgate all the way down when loading/unloading stuff. How bad will they hit the tailgate? The pintle hitch just barely touches the tailgate when it's down.

Hey Greg, Yeah, I definitely plan on cutting the extra length out of the middle of that steering gear. Glad you mentioned referencing it though, I might have forgot that. Anyway, If you find the time, I wouldn't mind having the measurement. I could probably do without, but just to be double sure.

The bumperettes were an afterthought so I didn't install them like they're supposed to be. The bumberettes have four holes drilled in there sides that coincide with the four rearmost rivets in both sides of the truck frame (the ones running into the rear frame member). What I should have done is remove those rivets and run four bolts through each bumperette and the frame. At that point the bumperettes would have been installed correctly. They aren't supposed to be bolted to the rear of the frame as mine are. They're supposed to be able to slide against the rear frame and act as a spring.

My frame was already powder coated when I decided to install the bumperettes and I didn't want to mess it up trying to remove those rivets. I decided to make my own holes and bolt the bumperettes up independently of the the rivets. I used two bolts on the sides of each bumperette. I would have used more, but everything was too crowded. Because I wasn't getting much strength out of the two bolts on the sides, I also put those two large bolts in each bumperette that run into the rear frame member. They look good, but they shouldn't be there. The bumperettes are of a really hard steel, so any holes I made I did with the cutting torch. The plates on the side of the bumperettes are just to cover the four original and unused holes.

Sorry for the long explanation. I installed um in a bit of a roundabout way.

As far as dropping the tailgate, the bumperettes are 1/2" further out than the pintle hook and about 2" higher. I'll leave a pic of how far my tailgate drops.

[JReed]

Was Wrong

Greg, I was just driving home and realized I was wrong about some of that info on the bumperettes. It was something I worked on a while back so I wasn't remembering right. The bolts into the rear frame member are supposed to be there. I think I remember the holes they go through on the bumperette being elongated... at the time I thought they were built that way to allow for some movement between the bolt head and the frame as the bumperettes sprung if there was an impact. Anyway, I'm not sure if that theory was right, but either way, the bumperettes are supposed to have those rear bolts.

Just remembered another thing too. I had to cut that notch into the bumperette where the rear cross member goes through. I don't remember if I made it entirely, or if I just cut an existing notch deeper. When I mocked it up I had some of the bed temporarily put together but it wasn't on its mounting pads yet, so I ended up notching in a little deeper than was necessary.

--- Took a look at VPW and it looks like they were already cut like that. I just made mine deeper, but judging by the amount of clearence I ended up with, I'm not sure it was necessary.

[Greg Coffin]

Thanks for the info Joel. Time for me to start measuring the back of the PW.

[Greg Coffin]

Steering Shaft Measurements

Joel, here's what I got for the steering shaft:

Top of machined boss to top of shaft 34-7/8"
Bottom of machined boss to top of shaft 36-3/8"
Steering box casting number B-6030

The tape measure looks like it's pulled away at the tip, but that's just parallax. Holler if you need anything else.

[JReed]

Joel, here's what I got for the steering shaft:

Top of machined boss to top of shaft 34-7/8"
Bottom of machined boss to top of shaft 36-3/8"
Steering box casting number B-6030

The tape measure looks like it's pulled away at the tip, but that's just parallax. Holler if you need anything else.

Thanks Greg. Shortened and reinstalled the gear yesterday. Butt welded it and bridged that with a sleeve welded to both halves. Referenced it too, like you said. I've not been getting much sleep lately and I know I would have overlooked that woodruff key on top and cut the thing without reference, thinking I could orient the wheel however I wanted after the fact... so thanks again for the reminder.

The wheel is a lot more usable now. And its nice not having a steering wheel between my face and the windshield.

[aussiecowboy]

I just read this whole thread, you're doing amazing work and it will be an incredible truck when you're done. I look forward to the next instalment.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

I have been looking and studying so many of the subtle yet so very useful

details of this beauty.

It looks not only truly fantastic but so very useful, durable, and fun!

Thank you so very much for sharing all of this with all of us.

Matthew

[cj7ox]

JReed,
This truck is looking fantastic! Keep at it, as I love to read about and see the progress!

Sean

[JReed]

Thanks guys. I haven't done a whole lot in the past several weeks, but I'm still moving a little bit. Just been too busy with work.

Tonight I cut some holes in the dash for some switch panels I had made. I'm not sure where everything was switched originally but I had a few additions to the original switches and thought it would look good to get them all in one place.

I'm switching the parking (or cowl?) light running filaments separate from the headlights. Besides that I have reverse, fog, and cab interior light switches. I mounted a small electrically pumped washer fluid reservoir on the inside of the firewall just above the steering column (didn't like how it looked on the motor side). I have a momentary switch for the pump just beneath a panel with four light switches.

I put the switch for my heater to the right of the ignition switch... I'm not sure what used to be switched there (?), but I like that position for my heater.

I assume the instrument lights are supposed to be switched with the headlights, can someone let me know if this is right?

I'll post a few pics. I still need to get some sheet metal screws to mount the two panels. I rolled the truck out of the garage to get a better look a few weeks back so I finally got the whole truck in one picture too.

[53Crusher]

switches

Joel-

Still looking great!

I THINK that where you have your heater switch would normally be a "panel" switch that controls the interior instrument lights. On mine, I have it wired so that when I turn on my headlights, the panel lights can come on if the switch is pulled. Didn't want the instrument lights to be 100% manual and I forget to turn them off.

You may also want to consider a variable rheostat type switch for you heater..... Your truck will be well sealed and insulated. You might find that the heater will cook you out on full. It's nice to be able to turn the fan down once the cab warms up. Just my $0.02

[W_A_Watson_II]

Looks great, very nice work.

[Greg Coffin]

Looking good Joel! Can't wait to see it on the road, or better yet, coming down my driveway!

Your heater switch is in the correct location. The WM300s used a 2 position pull switch for low and high. I suggest going to a 2 position switch for the fan. My cab is completely open/uninsulated, and I usually have my fan on low once I'm on the road.

Your instrument lights should go on with the parking lights. The cowl lights were designed to go on with the parking lights, and off with the headlights. Some guys hook up the cowl lights to the parking light circuit so they stay on with the headlights. I kinda like that, but mine is stock. I've also seen guys hook them up to the turn signals, which really gets your attention, but it's a little much at night.

Good luck with your progress.

[cj7ox]

Awesome! That truck is just plain beautiful!