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Spin-on Bypass Oil Filter for PW

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  • #16
    Continuing on, Pic# 15 shows how the inlet/outlet lines bend around the filter from a frontal perspective. You have to be able to think in 3 dimensions when you do this, it's not easy in a crowded engine compartment. Pic#16 shows a side view, Pic # 17 shows a lower view under the filter bottom, there's 1 1/2" between the line and the filter bottom for hand clearance.
    Attached Files

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    • #17
      Excellent thread!
      Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


      Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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      • #18
        Thank you, Gordon- I suppose my large bandwidth use for pictures is worthwhile? I felt that the replacement sock filter situation was going from bad to worse quite rapidly.

        Here's some more links to flathead full-flow/bypass filtration.

        http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_...d.php?p=174206 - go to Tony WestOZ post "Hope I Don't Confuse You With This..."- this shows what the 230 full-flow block looks like. A bypass filter is also hooked up, but I'm unsure if it works, as the info from this thread suggests that only one system or the other can be used with the relief valve- http://powerwagonadvertiser.com/foru...tid=6513&d=127... Perhaps Clint can advise on this. I'd use the full-flow block with hoses as pictured and a remote dual filter head incorporating a full-flow and bypass filter as done in today's setups.

        http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_...d.php?p=174206 - go to Don Coatney post "If Your Engine is Setup for Full Fow.."-the pic shows what the full-flow filter housing for the 230 looks like, it had a cannister filter.


        There are some more threads I'll post when I can get the links to work... In the P15D24 links, go to the "Thread Tools" button and click it, then select "printable version", you'll be able to scroll down thru the threads more easily, pics are linked in each thread...

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        • #19
          Attaching photos is part of your benefits!
          Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


          Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

          Comment


          • #20
            Mainess - Thanks for all of the great info. It will certainly benefit all of us. You always have such nicely detailed posts. Appreciate it and your efforts!
            Tim Ellis

            1953 B4 PW
            2013 Dodge 2500 Diesel

            Clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.

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            • #21
              Here's some very important info on how the oil pressure relief valve works in the 230- http://www.430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar...n+style+filter - go to post #8 by Don Coatney. If this link doesn't work, try going to www.p15-d24.com, and search "Anyone ever go to a spin style filter". I've contacted Mr. Coatney, as it appears to have info on the bypass filter as well as the full-flow shown, hopefully he'll reply.

              Notice that there's a hole in the valve allowing oil to bypass the filter at engine start ("No Dry Run"). As the pressure comes up, the valve shifts to an intermediate position, blocking off this hole and sending all the oil thru the filter, if pressure goes higher, the valve shifts over farther and starts dumping oil back to the pan. I don't know if the Bypass Filter type valve has this hole, I'll have to check the one in my spare block.

              Now, for those who are doing the full-flow mod with the oil pump housing, remember that the engine is designed for that flow around the filter on startup, and be sure it can get it- with a bypass valve in the filter or filter mount, AND low restriction fittings on the housing.

              What I'm looking at for a full-flow mod is removing the valve entirely and plugging several passages to conduct oil out of the block. Next, I'd enlarge the #3 main galley hole to take a larger fitting, and use that as the return from a remote filter mount. The question is whether the #3 hole can safely be enlarged to take a larger fitting, I'll be looking at my block for that as well...

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              • #22
                I took a quick look at my spare 230 block, and it seems the bypass filter type is markedly different internally than the full-flow type.

                Pic# 18 shows the oil tube inlet hole (indicated by the pen) and the two pressure relief valve holes to the pan. The threaded part of the inlet hole is 7/16" dia, the tube from the pump is likely 3/8" dia. The inlet hole goes up to the main galley, and is intersected by the relief valve hole about 1/2 way up.
                The two relief valve holes are 1/4" dia, only one will be open during relief valve operation.

                Pic #19 shows the oil pressure relief valve cavity. The spool valve hole appears to be 7/16" dia, the threaded part is 11/16" dia, and accomodates the spring and threaded sealing plug. As far as I can see, there are 3 holes in the spool valve bore- the two holes to the sump (bottom), and a hole feeding the 90 deg brass fitting on top.

                Pic #20 shows one of the main galley holes in the block. The pad dia is 1 13/64", and it's ~ 1/2" deep to the galley- plenty of material for a larger fitting.
                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  Moving on with the pics, Pic #21 shows the main galley plug at the rear of the block. Hole dia is 11/16", likely a 1/2" galley dia.

                  It appears that oil from the pump goes straight to the bearings, and the relief valve exists to vent excess pressure, and regulate flow thru the bypass filter. I don't have the spool valve, but I doubt it has the bleed hole found in the full-flow one, there's no need for one. The bypass filter only operates when the valve is in the intermediate position. A much simpler arrangement from the full-flow block cutaway shown in the PWA link.

                  From what I can see, converting a bypass block to full-flow by removing the relief valve is doable. The galley access holes can take a 3/8 ID fitting, may be 7/16". The big challenge is plugging the feed hole from the pump after the intersection of the relief valve so the oil has to exit the block. This hole doesn't have the plug found in the full-flow block at this point, I'll have to see if there's enough wall thickness to counterbore for a 7/16" plug. If this is possible, I'll have to see what dia the bypass hole in the full-flow spool valve is, as it might be a good idea to incorporate it into the 7/16" blocking plug (if it's not too big). Obviously, this mod needs to be done as part of an engine overhaul, which means I won't be getting to it for awhile. So if anyone feels in a pioneering mood, try it and report back (though it's been said "Pioneers get massacred, Settlers get rich...).
                  Attached Files

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                  • #24
                    There was an article in the PWA several years ago about this conversion. I will have to look back in my old magazines to see if I can find it, unless Gordon has it archived.

                    Frank

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                    • #25
                      Thanks maineSS for this thread.

                      Just finished installing mine. Made a few changes and mods...

                      1. My upright piece is a little smaller, both in width and height (3 1/4"w x 4 3/8"h). The width of the upright matches the width of WIX adapter plate.

                      2. I mounted the upright piece all the way to the right on the angle iron, thereby moving the filter toward the cab. This gives a little more room for the dip stick and access to the oil line fittings.

                      3. I angle cut the left front corner of the angle iron to allow more room for the dip stick.

                      4. I routed my lines a little differently. I tried to move them to the rear of the filter to allow better access for removing/replacing the filter.

                      5. I used the WIX adapter - 24755 and Wix filter - 51704 (Baldwin B-164 will also work).

                      Anyway, thought I would post a few pics for anyone interested. Again, thanks to maineSS for the template for this mod.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #26
                        Very neat set up CSCameron. Thanks for the pics too.

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                        • #27
                          Your oil changes should be much less messy now. The biggest challenge I had was making flares that don't leak on the supply & return lines.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by maineSS View Post
                            Your oil changes should be much less messy now. The biggest challenge I had was making flares that don't leak on the supply & return lines.
                            It is a neater/cleaner setup and will definitely make oil changes less messy. :) I used the nickle/copper alloy for the lines. They usually seat really well with no leaks. We'll see...

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                            • #29
                              Resurrecting an old thread. How have these systems worked out for you MaineSS and CSCameron?

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                              • #30
                                I'm with Natejohnson17, I've just started working on my 1954 Power Wagon and would be interested in how these systems worked out for you MaineSS and CSCameron?

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