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modern receiver hitch and M37

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  • John Mc
    replied
    The only specs I saw on there were "shipping dimensions". I was not sure how much to trust that for estimating the rise, although I guess the actual rise could not be bigger than that dimension.

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  • Doc Dave
    replied
    You have to click on tech specifications. See this link:

    https://www.draw-tite.com/products/t...bv2qPLRmhm5NVU

    I have not checked my frame width to see if this works ( I know it is pretty standard). But, as to rise or height, this one shows a "height" of only 7". So it would not hang down as far I think.

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  • John Mc
    replied
    Doc Dave - Where are you finding the rise specifications on the Draw-Tite site? I've not been able to find them on the Draw-Tite website or on eTrailer, so most of my browsing has been eyeballing the pictures and trying to guess the rise.

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  • Doc Dave
    replied
    Extra info- I measured the vertical distance on my hitch from the bottom of the receiver up to the hitch flange, and it was 9". I think the hitch people refer to this dimension as the "rise".
    just for grins, I looked at Draw-Tite's on line site for receiver hitches. They have a class 3 (similar rating as this one) with a 7" rise. If I experience difficulty with my hitch on the M37 as to clearance, I would consider the a Draw Tite one as I believe the receiver would be 2" closer to the truck frame.

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  • Doc Dave
    replied
    See this link from Paul's site:
    i think it may be overkill to have the hitch flanges up to the top frame flanges, but that gets it up higher compared to the pintle. Harder to accomplish due to clearance with what I used, but with Paul's Draw Tite?

    http://imageevent.com/moosecreekmapl...h83qk1.camel_s

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  • John Mc
    replied
    Thanks for the additional info and leads.

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  • Doc Dave
    replied
    I have not used it yet; the truck is not done.
    So, I can't say how I like it in operation but I can't see it would be an issue.

    Paul Mierop who lives about an hour from you and Tim, has information on his "you can do this" tutorial pages, from back when he built various power wagons. He also mentions a hitch he found that fit the civvie flatfender, so may fit the M37 well. His M37 is modified but has a lot of good stuff in the section on it. Look at the section on "Bumblebee" for the hitch.

    check this out:
    http://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple

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  • John Mc
    replied
    I forgot to ask: other than the drop, are there things you've found that you wish were a bit different? Would you move the receiver fore or aft if you had the choice?

    I agree that I'm not about to try to modify the hitch myself. Even our local welding guru has told me that his insurance does not want him welding on towing/hitch equipment. (He does custom work on tractors and logging equipment, so his skill is definitely up to it, but I can understand why the insurance co. would draw the line on hitch work.) However, since I'm shopping for aftermarket hitches anyway, I might as well shop for as close to an ideal set up as possible.

    By the way - I understand you know Tim Holloway of Distinctive Restorations. I live a few miles from him. He's going to be doing some work on "Brutus" (my M37) shortly - we'll be rebuilding the transmission and transfer case, along with a few other things.

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  • John Mc
    replied
    Thanks, Doc Dave . That is very helpful. I spoke with the folks at eTrailer about this, asking if they had something with less drop, as judging from the pictures of the aftermarket hitches sold by Curt and other manufacturers, the hitches to fit a 2001 Dodge Ram had more drop than I would like. I'm assuming this was needed to clear the bumper on the 2001 Ram. In my searches of their site, I noticed that the Curt 14001 which is sold to fit the 2001 Dodge Ram also fits Dodge full size pickups all the way back to 1967 (which is as far back as the dates were offered on the eTrailer site).

    I asked if he had anything with less drop that would fit, and mentioned that I was mainly interested in the width (so it would align with the frame rails) and the drop. He said "just about every hitch we have for a full size truck will fit for the width, they are all the same. However the holes wont line up." (I had no idea that most/all modern full-sized trucks shared the same frame rail spacing.) When he learned that I would be drilling holes anyway, he said that I should understand they can't guarantee it structurally, but if I was going to drill anyway, just pick one with a drop I liked and that the holes didn't interfere with some other structure on the frame.

    Unfortunately, eTrailer doesn't have drawings showing dimensions and hole locations, so it looks like I'll need to make a trip to a trailer hitch place in my area and see if they have anything that will give me the amount of drop with holes in acceptable locations. I'm hoping they have some varieties in stock that we can look at for fit.

    I don't do rock crawling, but the approach and departure angles are still important to me. I do intend to use this truck in the woods, either by itself or hauling my log trailer with hydraulic loader. Most use will be on the access trails, but some of them can be rough in spots, mainly due to the installation of water bars and broad-based dips for erosion control.

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  • Doc Dave
    replied
    To answer one of your questions, I too thought that ideally the "drop" of the hitch would be somewhat less; the receiver would be only say 2" below the pintle. As it is, it's not "bad" unless you were doing rock crawling maybe.
    If one could find a receiver hitch off the shelf that has a little less drop, then it might be perfect.

    To fab different hitch flanges with less drop (and correct strength, etc) is above my pay grade!

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  • Doc Dave
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    86F55D56-726C-47D9-8F7D-4FF32FD9D0E4.jpg

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  • Doc Dave
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    3548D754-8220-4E08-BC2D-1CCAC52622F0.jpg

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  • Doc Dave
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    6351D8FF-4FD1-4467-9B59-25162E2B6C53.jpg

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  • Doc Dave
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    726E7056-F9A3-4E48-9B58-DEB08DE5A6C5.jpg

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  • Doc Dave
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    0A635868-3629-47ED-8E03-4FB833B7A8CE.jpg

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