Originally posted by gusbratz
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struggling to resurect an m37
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Another Approach
Originally posted by W_A_Watson_II View PostI'm planning on using 1.5" and feed it with the two 1.25" hoses I have connected to my under seat 40K BTU heater.
I liked the saw cut slot idea, might do that rather than the holes.
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this should make you laugh.
i came up with a solution, I keep a burnzomatic on the seat beside me and just fire it up and defrost as neccary, works great. then the window is warm enough that it stays clear for a half hour or so. I built a little candle holder for the dash area. I call it my amish defroster. we will see if it works as good as the burnzomatic.
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I'm planning on using 1.5" and feed it with the two 1.25" hoses I have connected to my under seat 40K BTU heater.
I liked the saw cut slot idea, might do that rather than the holes.
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I used 1", it's on a Willys CJ3b Jeep. 1 and 1/2" or maybe 2" would probably give more air flow and work better yet for an M37. I had gotten the idea years ago from someone else saying they did it.
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Originally posted by Gsmith View PostFWIW you can make a cheap defroster out of pvc pipe, with slits cut in it with a circular saw, and mount it at the bottom of the glass. Be prepared with a respirator because it makes a big mess, pvc dust flying everywhere. Run some kind of duct from the heater to the pvc.
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FWIW you can make a cheap defroster out of pvc pipe, with slits cut in it with a circular saw, and mount it at the bottom of the glass. Be prepared with a respirator because it makes a big mess, pvc dust flying everywhere. Run some kind of duct from the heater to the pvc.
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Originally posted by Charles Talbert View PostThe window fogging issue is common unless you have a heater that picks up outside air rather than simply recirculating air that is already in the cab. A defroster will help by having a forced air flow directly on the glass, but still won't be great unless you are drawing outside air.
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Make sure your Micky Mouse heater is not seeping anti-freeze. That can cause never ending condensation .
Try to stay as dry as you can before getting in.
I never tried it but I heard rain-X can help if you spray it on the inside.
As a last resort try holding your breath .
I live in North Central Pa. and we get our share of snow and cold, tonight it is reported to hit 14 degrees.
So far I have not had steamed up windows.
In my case that may be due to the draft situation. If I want to light my pipe I have to stop so there is not so much wind in the cab.
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Originally posted by gusbratz View Postit keeps snowing, will it ever stop? we have well over 2' on the ground and they are calling for some kind of a storm this weekend. i'm continueing to work the bugs out of the m37. tonight the bald 9.00x16 NDT are going back on with a set of chains since the home made duels didn't hold air for long. Here is a puzler... the windows keep fogging and frosting up. tried fog x but it seemed to make it worse. there is a little heater in the cab but it doesnet seem to help. I keep the windows down but the windshield keeps fogging up. hard to stay out of the ditch when you cant see. any ideas?
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it keeps snowing, will it ever stop? we have well over 2' on the ground and they are calling for some kind of a storm this weekend. i'm continueing to work the bugs out of the m37. tonight the bald 9.00x16 NDT are going back on with a set of chains since the home made duels didn't hold air for long. Here is a puzler... the windows keep fogging and frosting up. tried fog x but it seemed to make it worse. there is a little heater in the cab but it doesnet seem to help. I keep the windows down but the windshield keeps fogging up. hard to stay out of the ditch when you cant see. any ideas?
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Originally posted by Kaiser2boy View PostNot to sound like Henny Youngman but ,funny you should mention that.
I was concerned about run out and I did just about what you said. I was surprised that there was not a lot of run out in either direction, front to back or side to side.
While I have you here , and not trying to Hijack the post, but I read that you should not remove the drums without marking its rotational spot on the hub. The hand book says do this to prevent "PEELING OFF THE HUB BOLTS" ?
I did not know about this until after removing my drums for inspection. I looked and can see no such marks to indicate that anyone has ever done it. How important is that statement?
Realistically, nobody does that. If you care enough to consider it, then do it. Years ago I did that, and I realize now, I don't really think about it.
It is a best form kind of habit.
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