How hot ?

[74w300uteline]

hold on

Lets leave New York city out of this, we have enough problems already.
lets pick on Philadelphia
even better San fran psycho.
even better better Washington DC.

Grease them fulltime hubs through the hole in the rotor.
New Yawk signing off

[Kaiser2boy]

What was the original question?? Oh now I remember it was about the transfer box heat. Did not figure it would end up as a question of how hot the debate could get.
Anyway I think I may have found a tiny problem that may cause the box to get warmer than it should.
Living in the country is not the same as the city. Things out here seem to be constantly looking for a home. I was under the truck poking around and thought I saw something odd. It turns out that I have had at least two star boarders in my truck because it sat for a few months not running.
The first critter or I should saw critters were a bunch of Mud Daubers. THe entire back and part of the top was covered in stucko like mud tubes and the second was a mouse nest with about 3 pounds of what looked like gray cotton stuffed up there. At first I thought it would be a simple task to just brush it away but Noooo. It was a total PITA. The Mud Daubers hives are like concrete. Even a presure washer could not get all of it and it is hard to get your hand in there to chip away at them. I got 99% of it out , what a mess.

[Charles Talbert]

Charles,

I think I found the problem. Its the shirt you're wearing when you visit the PWA forum :0)

You may have it figured out, guess we'll see.

[Charles Talbert]

I hope not because that wasnt the intent. We come from different backgrounds and therefore have differing opinions, that is the way of the net.

I've read this numerous times; but I just can't figure out what doing something mechanical has to do with either my or your background. I may be just a southern country boy and you may be a New York downtown city slicker; either way doesn't make the misapplication of lock-out hubs an acceptable decision as far as I can tell.

I do think the real picture here is becoming a little more clear though.

[OLD DODGE]

Charles,

I think I found the problem. Its the shirt you're wearing when you visit the PWA forum :0)

[MoparFreak69]

Not taken as a personal attack at all.

I hope not because that wasnt the intent. We come from different backgrounds and therefore have differing opinions, that is the way of the net.

[Charles Talbert]

Not taken as a personal attack at all. It's just that I have become convinced that you can't be reasoned with no matter what proof stands behind the point that is in question; so I figured why waste the time. I will defend myself if I know I'm right beyond question. If I don't know that as fact, I usually remain silent.

[MoparFreak69]

Wow, sure are receptive to counter points arent you?

I was not trying to make a personal attack, but that seems the way you took it. I'm not the least bit sorry.

I was simply sharing some of my personal experiences and some that I have seen others do, whether 'kosher' to manufacturer's fine print or not. I dont feel running in this manner will severely harm a hub but you seem to so, to each his own. I dont run that way because I have a part time transfer case so no need to put any wear on parts that can stay still until needed.

I already appologized for my misinformation due to wrong t-case model, I wont keep beating that dead horse, although you seem to enjoy it so.

*edit* I should have added this to the other post. *When the hub has proper lubrication*

[Charles Talbert]

While I see what you are trying to say with your statement here I have to offer a disagreement with reasoning.
It is common practice for the budget minded (read: no budget) enthusiast to add manual hubs to a full time 4wd truck to increase fuel mileage, without having to spend the time or money putting a part time t-case in the rig. This can be done with ill effects to any part of the drivetrain. Yes, doing this will not give you the benefit of reducing front axle component wear nearly as much, which is a big reason for going with manual hubs, but it will not cause anything to wear out prematurely. Everything will still rotate just the same as it would if the hubs were engaged. The only difference would be the splines connecting the hub to the axle shaft will not be in place.

It is also common practice for budget minded fixes to sometimes cause undesirable results.

Mopar, I just really don't have the time to sit around an argue with you, so I'll just finish off with this and you can think however you wish.

If you read the fine print info that comes with better quality hubs, you will realize right up front that hub manufacturer's do not recommend using lock-out hubs in this manner. The deal with this practice has an ill effect on the lock-out hubs themselves, I was not suggesting issues anywhere else in the drive system. Yes this is another thing that I've also seen through experience over the years. If you will go back and re-read my post that you are desputing here, you should understand that I said the HUBS would be short lived, not any other system components. Of course you don't believe it, and that's fine as frog hair; try it yourself and learn the hard lesson as many have already done before you. This would only prematurely destroy your hubs that you paid for, and nobody else's.

[MoparFreak69]

If you have the front axle engaged at the transfer case and are expecting the lock-out hubs to do the whole job of disengagement; the hubs will be short lived.

While I see what you are trying to say with your statement here I have to offer a disagreement with reasoning.
It is common practice for the budget minded (read: no budget) enthusiast to add manual hubs to a full time 4wd truck to increase fuel mileage, without having to spend the time or money putting a part time t-case in the rig. This can be done with ill effects to any part of the drivetrain. Yes, doing this will not give you the benefit of reducing front axle component wear nearly as much, which is a big reason for going with manual hubs, but it will not cause anything to wear out prematurely. Everything will still rotate just the same as it would if the hubs were engaged. The only difference would be the splines connecting the hub to the axle shaft will not be in place.

[Kaiser2boy]

Sorry.
My brain was in nutral. I was thinking of the high low lever .
The 2WD/4WD clicks nicly into 2WD or 4WD. I normally drive with the lever in 2WD and have the hubs open.

I was having a flash back to another post about being able to select a nutral with the High / Low lever.

I guess I will have to go back to taking my Ginko pills on a more regular time table.

[Charles Talbert]

My truck does have hub lock outs and I leave them in 2WD unless playing.
I will try lighter oil. I tried finding nutral with the lever and it can be done but I am not sure it will stay in nutral while bouncing along the road.
The hub locks left in the 2wd should do about the same thing , yes?

I'm not sure I understand you completely. If you have the front axle engaged at the transfer case and are expecting the lock-out hubs to do the whole job of disengagement; the hubs will be short lived. You should have a defined neutral detent that you can feel at the front axle lever. If not you have a problem that needs to be addressed right away.

[Kaiser2boy]

My truck does have hub lock outs and I leave them in 2WD unless playing.
I will try lighter oil. I tried finding nutral with the lever and it can be done but I am not sure it will stay in nutral while bouncing along the road.
The hub locks left in the 2wd should do about the same thing , yes?

[gusbratz]

navy always said the threshold for pain was 140 degres farenheight. i find that is about right.

[iranch]

How hot is hot

If you could hold your hand on it, it isn't hot, it's only a little warm. Put your hand on the head of the engine when it's warmed up to 160 and you will find it's a lot warmer than the trans or transfer case. You are well within the acceptable operating range, don't worry about it.

Dennis