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  • Ok here it is .

    Needs a bit of dress up and finishing but I am not going to do much more on this piece besides sandblast and paint . Hopefully tieing the dash and the fire wall together is enough to reduce any flexing to a acceptable level .
    Attached Files

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    • Progress continues more or less .

      I went to Canada's biggest swap meet on Saturday . Bought no parts although there was some great deals . Ford independent rear ends at 200 bucks a pop . I also swapped my Ford - Cummins adapter for a Chev - Cummins adapter + 200 cash . I then took the 200 bucks and made a down payment on a steering column from The Old Car Center . I also bought some 12 guage cold rolled sheet that I plan on using to create my inner frame for the tailgate .
      What have I got done on the truck ? Well you need to wait for a few days and I may get in some photos of some late model parts that actually fit the Carryall .
      I think i am at the midpoint on this build .

      Bruce

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      • Originally posted by Bruce in BC View Post
        It is possible to tuck a winch behind the bumper without moving it out too far . I think I will end up 2-3 inch max , but 1.5 inches would be doable with a slight change in bumper design .
        The thing is to get this to work . I had to toss out my front spring mounts and make another one . I hate building things twice . This is in the mock up stage . lots of fiddling to do yet . I plan on inserting the roller fairhead into the bumper . What I have built is a winch bathtub . The winch will be pretty much undetectable once installed .

        I will miss UGG he was a lot of fun .
        that looks GREAT, i was able to fit a milemarker in and use the original bumper, in the original location!

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        • ok, drove it around, got some pics today. ill try and get back on it.

          http://gallery.me.com/ltalessi#100372

          feel free to download/take what you want.....
          thats a lexan.margard moon roof.....



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          • Rebuilding Knee Action Shocks

            A few years ago VPW had the rebuild kits for the WC shocks and I bought the "internal" and "external" repair kits. Earlier this spring I finally got around to installing the kits. Using the TM 9-1808B Manual it was easy to rebuild the shocks. Here are some pictures that I took that may help if you're working on these shocks. Don't worry about not having the kits you can still take the pistons out and give it a good cleaning. After unscrewing the two end caps take an ice pick (or something sharp) and drive into the two plugs covering the piston screws. With the screws removed the pistons will slide out. Pay attention or mark them to help when putting it back together.
            Attached Files

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            • Rebuilding Knee Action Shocks

              To get the pistons back into the cylinder you will need to grind a 1/16" chamfer on the compression piston. This is the shiney spot on the last picture. I had to grind it halfway into the screw hole. I'll also suggest that unless you have the internal rebuild kit that contains the clips, springs and compression valves, do not remove the valve retaining springs. Once they're removed they don't go together very easy. A good cleaning and blowing air will probably be good enough.
              Attached Files

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              • Rebuilding Knee Action Shocks

                After I got the shocks filled and painted I pressed the rubber bushings in (from the external kit) and installed them on the Carryall. I think they look neat and will work as good as they ever did. If you have a Carryall you know what that means (ha).
                Attached Files

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                • Oh boy have we been busy . Great contributions guys .

                  Ok this is my 96 Dodge clutch line . Fits the carryall quite well . The clutch cylinder is mounted but the reservoir needs to be moved from its dangly position .
                  I went tube shocks on the front . You can see the modification to the splash apron . With the fenders on it looks like it came from the factory . I radiused the inside edge with a nice curve . The outside edge looked like more it would take up more time than I was willing to give .
                  Stock shocks ... do they work at all ? After a few cycles I would think airation would be a problem . I love the look of the stock shocks and am tempted to toss them back in the rear .
                  Attached Files

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                  • The cost of a custom build

                    I am too busy to build everything . I was going to build my own column but I decided to treat myself to buying instead . This is where the costs start to add up and a good indicator on how some one can get 40 grand in a build and only be half done .
                    Column - $360
                    Wheel - $ 280
                    Horn and adapter - $80
                    ujoints - $180
                    double D shaft - $25
                    Taxes - $111
                    Shipping - $100

                    Total cost of steering to box $1137 .oo

                    It starts to get real expensive when you add in the cost of a rebuilt box about 400 and power steering pump , ram , lines and adapters about 400 and if you add in a high steer arm and drag link with new tierod ends you are looking at about 700 more bucks , lets not forget the pitman arm - 90 bucks and if you add in a cooler 100 and a decent reservoir with filter you are now looking at over 3000 dollars to go from the steering wheel to the axle .
                    Not cheap.

                    I have a few more pictures and updates in the works.

                    Bruce
                    Attached Files

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                    • $$$$....

                      Is that Canadian or US funds for the steering column/wheel Bruce?

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                      • Canadian funds Jake

                        modify the original column would be a better way to go . Put a bearing on the bottom and make the shaft take a ujoint ,

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                        • Here is a trick I have never seen done .

                          I have ram assist steering . There are three ways that the axle end gets attached . Weld to the axle , weld to a thicker inspection cover or make a bracket that bolts over the inspection cover . The problem is that the inspection cover will move the tiniest bit under load and it starts to leak .
                          What I did was machine a little button to fit in the case spreader hole . You can see the left hole in the picture . On the right you can see a bit of the button and part of the bracket that bolts over the inspection cover . The pin or button will now take the load instead of the inspection cover bolts . I need to weld up the bracket.
                          Look people look .
                          See Bruce,s steering column .
                          See the bracket .
                          See the wiring .
                          See the wiring hit the bracket .
                          See Bruce cry .
                          Attached Files

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                          • Where do you find all the time Bruce? Its looking great!!

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                            • An hour here and an hour there .

                              Just like the rest of us . Well actually 2 or 3 hours here and there . I am trying to clean up my home shop to make room for the carryall . I have work this summer - 3 weeks straight without breaks . I have no idea how I am going to get things done or move the packard that I have boxed in my shop before I leave for the bush.
                              I am serious my 4 post hoist has the packard trapped against the wall . Been there since the house was built and that was 18 years ago . There are dead things under that car and tools i have not seen in years.

                              off to bed

                              Bruce

                              Remember UGG's garage shots ? We both used the same template.

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                              • Got the steering column brackets done

                                I had to make the bottom one because the fancy aluminum floor mount I bought did not work very well . That is 1/2 the original top clamp in use on the bottom mount . I really did have to build a different top mount to allow room for the wires .
                                Look at what I found under all the junk in the corner of my garage . Anyone want a Packard ?
                                Attached Files

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