Dual rear output NP205

[BrightRanch]

I found this thread on another forum about dual rear outputs on a 205 http://mobile.pirate4x4.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=34892
apparently this will work. they had pictures of it in a truck.
This would get around the offset rear end problem nicely.
Has anybody done this here, or heard of it being done?
They were talking about using the output shaft from a NP200 is it the same as the shaft in the NP201?

[BrightRanch]

I think this is a winner. Spent all evening on it and took the output shaft from a 201 and put it in the 205. There were some synchronizing rods that had to be removed too allow the shifting to work correctly. And the shift rod and fork from the 201 had to be transplanted. The case shifts from 2wd to 4wd and has Hi & Lo. Everything seems to be tight and correct. I think that I can even find a way to use the E Brake from the 201 on the 205 with a trip to the machine shop to mount the brake drum/rotor (not the right term I am sure) to the yoke from the 205 output shaft. Went together very easy, no problems at all. The next step is to see if it survives, If anybody knows of any horror stories about trying to hybridize these cases I would sure appreciate a heads up on what to watch out for, as I am now out of 201 cases to steal parts from.

[MontanaWDX]

Transfer case yoke

a side question:

do you have a recommendation for the correct torque on the castled nut which secures the output drive yoke on the transfer case?

With nut finger tight it will line up with the cotter pin hole. Seems like a lot of torque is required to move it to the next position where the pin will go through. I did not want to over torque the nut. They were loose when I found them and this does not seem correct.

Thanks!

[Gordon Maney]

a side question:

do you have a recommendation for the correct torque on the castled nut which secures the output drive yoke on the transfer case?

With nut finger tight it will line up with the cotter pin hole. Seems like a lot of torque is required to move it to the next position where the pin will go through. I did not want to over torque the nut. They were loose when I found them and this does not seem correct.

Thanks!

Do not loosen to a cotter pin hole. Tighten.

Note: That remark does not apply to wheel bearing adjustment.

[Gordon Maney]

I found this thread on another forum about dual rear outputs on a 205 http://mobile.pirate4x4.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=34892
apparently this will work. they had pictures of it in a truck.
This would get around the offset rear end problem nicely.
Has anybody done this here, or heard of it being done?
They were talking about using the output shaft from a NP200 is it the same as the shaft in the NP201?

What are you meaning by dual outputs, in the context of your remarks?

[BrightRanch]

In the Motor's Repair Manual, and it says that during reassembly you should torque the yoke lock nut to 100-200 ft-lbs. That's a pretty wide range, so the exact value does not seem to be very critical. I personally use the good old impact wrench, zip it down until the hole for the cotter pin lines up. Not stupid tight mind you, but past snug. I know thats not a very technical response but it has worked for me.

[BrightRanch]

Hey Gordon,
Sorry if wasn't clear, by dual outputs I mean 2 rear facing output yokes and 1 front output yoke for the front end, and one for the input from the transmission
So you have a total of 3 outputs and one input on the transfer case. I will try and get a picture to post.

[BrightRanch]

The first pic is the assembled 205 with the new shaft installed. The second is showing the front of the 205 only because it is a married case and the input was not visible in the first pic. The 3rd is showing what I removed from the 201.

[Gordon Maney]

I see you are using your portable work bench.

[BrightRanch]

you bet, way easier than cleaning off the other one.

[Desoto61]

In the Motor's Repair Manual, and it says that during reassembly you should torque the yoke lock nut to 100-200 ft-lbs. That's a pretty wide range, so the exact value does not seem to be very critical. I personally use the good old impact wrench, zip it down until the hole for the cotter pin lines up. Not stupid tight mind you, but past snug. I know thats not a very technical response but it has worked for me.

That sounds about right. When I rebuilt mine I'd tighten it with the impact gun till I had the holes aligned (I could tighten the nut without having to brace or clamp the assembly). Then I'd brace it and check the nut with my torque wrench set within that range (150 ft. lbs or so).

[Steve G]

Do you have a nuetral postion when you put the two together?

[BrightRanch]

Yes and no the lower rear is engaged to the input at all times but has hi & lo Range. The top rear has a Neutral position the same as always. I think that with a little more time and swapping some more parts around you could make the lower shaft have a neutral position as well. I am not worried about it because I am not going to use a pto to power the winch. I have a wet kit on the cummins and am going to run the winch off a hydraulic motor. So it will have power in and power out as well as not being able to free spool, when you let off the lever the hydraulic motor wont allow it to move.

[maineSS]

I've been looking at this and wondering how it's better than the NP200. The problem with running the NP200 at highway speeds without a center diff axle and 5:89 gearing is heat buildup from driving the gearset. Running the drive straight thru the transfer case to a center diff offsets this problem somewhat, using a synthetic oil with good seals helps more, and using a diff cooler helps most of all. There was also a mention of not having front wheel drive with this mod in the posts- true or false?

[BrightRanch]

It has 4wd I am not sure what that would be referring to perhaps they installed the shift collar from the 205 on to the 200 shaft. I agree there is no reason to go with this if you have a complete truck to begin with. I had no choice in the matter as I needed to keep the married transfer case. I couldn't find a bell-housing for a 6bt cummins to keep the original transmission and when I decided to use the 4sp auto I had to change to the newer transfer case. The other reason to have this is if you were wanting to build a 6x6 as you can disengage one of the rear output's.