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  • headlight switch

    I am trying to remove the head light switch from behind the dash. I have released the pull knob from the switch but can not get the chrome bezel off to release the switch to pull it out. Any suggestions. Also is there any books out there that deal with cab interier/dash or instriment dissambly etc.

  • #2
    Are you aware that it unscrews off the switch?
    Or you are trying that and have other issues.
    I know of no books you mention.
    Maybe someone else might.
    TGP
    WDX & Misc. Pics.
    http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
    "47" Dodge WDX WW
    "52" Dodge M-37 WW
    "54" Willys M38A1
    "65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
    "77" Chev. K-30 400T,205,4.56 "No-Spin"
    "84" Chev, K-30 Cummins 6-BTA 400,205,3.73Locker
    "86" Chev, M1028A2 (K30) 6.2,400.205,4.56 Locker
    "99" Dodge Durango "Limited Slip"
    "99" Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4"No-Spin"

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    • #3
      So I need to pull the wires off the switch, Unscrew the switch from behind and the chrome bezel will then come out

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      • #4
        No.
        Hold the switch and unscrew the bezel.
        The switch has a locating tang that fits a slot in the dash.
        What year we working on here?
        Minor differences between the years,but the bezel should unscrew from them all.
        TGP
        WDX & Misc. Pics.
        http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
        "47" Dodge WDX WW
        "52" Dodge M-37 WW
        "54" Willys M38A1
        "65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
        "77" Chev. K-30 400T,205,4.56 "No-Spin"
        "84" Chev, K-30 Cummins 6-BTA 400,205,3.73Locker
        "86" Chev, M1028A2 (K30) 6.2,400.205,4.56 Locker
        "99" Dodge Durango "Limited Slip"
        "99" Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4"No-Spin"

        Comment


        • #5
          It is a 50 power wagon. I read your reply wrong. My mistake. I will try to unscrew the bezel. It is very tight and I did not want to break it.

          Comment


          • #6
            I placed a small pair of needle nose plyers tru the tiny square tabs on the bezel around the shaft of the head light switch. It will still not budge. Any other ideas. Thank you.

            Comment


            • #7
              Eric Bannerman sells the tool for that.

              http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-...motiveQ5fTools
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Try spraying some PB blaster or some other bust rust.
                You might tap on it some.

                TGP
                WDX & Misc. Pics.
                http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
                "47" Dodge WDX WW
                "52" Dodge M-37 WW
                "54" Willys M38A1
                "65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
                "77" Chev. K-30 400T,205,4.56 "No-Spin"
                "84" Chev, K-30 Cummins 6-BTA 400,205,3.73Locker
                "86" Chev, M1028A2 (K30) 6.2,400.205,4.56 Locker
                "99" Dodge Durango "Limited Slip"
                "99" Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4"No-Spin"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank you for the sugestions.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Klemm, if you are still out there

                    How did the knob release from the shaft? My issue is that the knob pulled off and I am not sure what was supposed to hold it on. Any thoughts?

                    Thanks

                    Scott

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by KLEMM View Post
                      Thank you for the sugestions.
                      William,
                      Have you had success? IF all else fails you could get one of eric's tools. I do not know but I think it is a socket he modified by grinding off metal leaving the tabs. Don't know if you could do the same with a cheap 1/4 " drive socket.
                      How far are you from being done with your rig?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I've had success modifying a 3/16" (I think that was the size) deep socket using a belt sander to rough out the shape and a file to finish it.

                        Some of the bezels don't have a slot. I've been able to remove them by moving the switch body from the back and holding the bezel in front with my hand. I kind of used a ratcheting action holding the bezel while moving the switch body in the direction that would loosen it and encouraging the bezel to slip in the direction that would tighten it.

                        It's really easy to mess up the bezel since they are made of chrome plated brass. It's best to make the correct tool. Needle nose pliers can work, but there is a risk of damaging the bezel. Moving the switch body back and forth a little can help break loose the bezel in any case.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you find yourself in a bind, with no slots for the bezel tool, a piece of leather, perhaps a section of waist belt, will help protect the plating when using pliers. If you are careful, you will find the right amount of squeeze to apply and do no damage.

                          CD
                          1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
                          1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
                          2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
                          1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
                          1954 Ford 860 tractor
                          1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
                          UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS

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