Power Wagon Steering Knuckle Removal

[gmharris]

Before I do some damage, which way do you drive the locating pins on the steering knuckles to remove them so that the knuckles can be split? Up or down?

The things I have read leave a little doubt in my mind. And, since the pins seemed to be really stuck, I want to make doubly sure before I apply some serious force.

Is there any trick to removing them other than a pin punch and a large hammer?

Thanks

[Charles Talbert]

Before I do some damage, which way do you drive the locating pins on the steering knuckles to remove them so that the knuckles can be split? Up or down?

The things I have read leave a little doubt in my mind. And, since the pins seemed to be really stuck, I want to make doubly sure before I apply some serious force.

Is there any trick to removing them other than a pin punch and a large hammer?

Thanks

Not a big deal, just drive them out.

[olgraybeard]

I think he is asking, are the pins tapered, if so which end is the big end. So when he smacks it he drives the pins out not deeper into the knuckle.

[Charles Talbert]

I think he is asking, are the pins tapered, if so which end is the big end. So when he smacks it he drives the pins out not deeper into the knuckle.

They are not tapered, it matters not which way they go out.

[gmharris]

Yep, that's right, the pins are not tapered. But, there is still a preferred direction to drive the pins out.

The pins are driven in flush from the top of the joint, which is the way anyone would normally install the pins. Since the pins are a little shorter than the width of the knuckle, they do not reach the bottom of the flange. So, it is a shorter distance to drive them out from the bottom opposite the direction they were put in.

This way, you are not fighting the corrosion and dirt that may have built up in the bottom of the hole. While this may not matter if the pins are coming out easily, it could make the difference in getting out stuck pins with the least force.

The pins in my truck were pretty much stuck. Even with delivering as much force as I could with a five pound sledge and a large pin drift, the pins would not move.

I wanted to make sure I was going to damage the knuckle. Driving the pins back in the opposite direction they were put in is going to take the least force.

A couple hints for anyone who has not done this job before: Use the largest pin drift that will fit in the hole. I initially used a smaller drift and I believe the flex in the drift was significantly reducing the impact of the hammer.

Ease up on the bolts holding the knuckles halves together but do not loosen or remove them. This will ease any binding on the pins but keep the loose knuckle halves from absorbing the power of the strike.

[Charles Talbert]

Using the largest diameter punch that fits is a definite plus, how far below flush the pins are inserted simply depends on the installer, not all are left flush with the top half surface. I've always found removal easier driving downward from the top, simply because it requires much less effort, to apply much more force than driving upwards from the bottom. In a word, it's just easier to do that way. Different strokes work in this case, whatever is easier for you.

[John S]

I agree that driving the pin downward is easiest. It is the easiest all around method. That said the top is often mushroomed at the top. The energy required to drive the pin through is increased . My method is... determine the if the pin is mushroomed for the downward drive . Drive it up a little from the opposite side. Grind the mushroomed area off the pin then drive it downward. a radius or a chamfer on the pin helps helps as well. Hope this helps