46 Power Wagon Restoration pt. 2

[Desoto61]

Due to my long absence my previous thread was archived so I'll start a new one here.

My first task was to get the new compressor installed and the air system plumbed in. I have to say I love this new compressor! My air supply is as reliable and consistent as my electricity now.



I picked up a few parts during my trip, not everything I was hoping to find but I'll take what I can get. The biggest is a centered rear axle housing which I'll swap out when I start the axle restoration. The other was a new gas tank. A 40 gallon unit Chris Case is building from Stainless setup for diesel. I also managed to get some rear shock mount brackets to go with that centered axle housing when I swap it out.

The work blasting and prepping parts continues, I'm going to need to start playing with my spray gun as lots of the stuff I'm working with now will get painted to match the frame or body vice powder coated.

However I did order one of the Ugly Truckling power steering conversion brackets and a reverse rotation box from AGR performance.

The box is built very nice with some upgrades and improvements, including slightly firmer valving and billet end caps. Installation requires some modifications to the frame however.

First I fit the bracket to the stock location without the box to make sure it bolted up properly. You have to make sure the frame surfaces are clean since the bracket sits flat against the inside of the frame rail and is larger than the flange of the stock steering box. Then four supplied bolts thread into the plate through the stock holes. I had some issues with one of the bolts but some minor dremel work on one of the frame holes created the extra space I needed.

Once I got the new steering box I bolted it to the adapter, which also had some interference issues. One of the round spacers provided has a side ground into it to clear the side of the adapter plate. The boss on the steering box was too thick and would not line up with that hole so a little metal removal was required there too. I don't love grinding on a fresh box but it's preferable to grinding on the bracket since that would compromise the strength where the metal removed from the box is not as structurally important.

Then it was time to fit it to the frame. This requires clearancing the top of the frame C-channel to fit around the box. The instructions provided discuss what to cut and grind. The key is lots of fitting and a little bit of grinding.

I would hold the assembly into the frame and mark out where it was hitting. Do a little grinding, cutting, and/or bending, then re-fit the bracket and see where the new interference was. Very tedious but the cut-out ends up being very close for a clean look, and it reduces the material removed from the frame.

The bracket is very beefy so I think it easily helps compensate for the metal removed from the frame, and it's held in with heavy duty fine-thread bolts.

With enough material removed I bolted up the box and checked the fit. The pitman shaft looked to be just touching the lower side of the hole so I opened it up slightly with the dremel to make sure there was no rubbing. Then I test fit the pitman arm to make sure everything worked. I didn't torque the pitman arm bolt (or any of the others for that matter) since I'm going to re-install the manual box to allow me to move the frame around more easily.

My only concern is that the arm of the new box isn't as long as the manual one, so the pitman arm will have to sit much closer to the frame in order to get a good engagement. It should be fine, there appears to be enough clearance between the bracket bolts and the arm to allow me to get good engagement of the arm to the box.

Next I'll be working on that 3rd cross member that's rusted out. I have some sheet metal being fabbed to install that will be cleaner and stronger than welding it all from flat pieces.

It's nice to be home working in the garage, now if only I could have brought the San Diego weather home with me. 100 degree temps don't encourage outdoor work.

[mageew]

Questions for Desoto

I'm thinking of installing a power steering conversion as well - I noticed from your pictures that you're working on the frame only. Is there any concern that the steering column won't be in proper alignment with the unit once the cab is in place? I'd like to do the frame modifications required before I sandblast/paint but I was worried that this might be an issue.

Thanks,
Will

[Desoto61]

The bracket is supposed to put the new box close to the stock column, a steering u-joint is included along with a bushing to locate the steering shaft inside the column once it's removed from the manual box.

However I'm probably going to use a Flaming River or similar aftermarket column so I'll end up building a new steering linkage anyway once the cab is back in place.

Otherwise to move the steering box too much would require modifying the tie-rods and/or pitman arm of the steering linkage.

[Gordon Maney]

Just so folks know; your previous thread you indicate to have been archived is accessible to magazine subscribers and premium forum users.

[mageew]

Good point

Otherwise to move the steering box too much would require modifying the tie-rods and/or pitman arm of the steering linkage.

Good point - I guess you really couldn't move the steering box so it had better mate up correctly.

[olgraybeard]

do they give one or two u-joints most sets I've seen you need two to get the proprer angle, unless they figured it in with the angle of the new box.

[mageew]

They DO say on the Ugly Truckling website that the bracket is for 72-77 Dodge 4x4 reverse rotation Saganaw power steering box so I guess they've got the dimensions figured out for that model. Desoto - I hope your AGR box is a good match. Thanks for posting your install details - it will definitely come in handy for me when I get there.

Just got my shop manual, owner's manual and (body) shop manual last night. The engine manual is on backorder, apparently. Just realized that rod dangling from under the dash is the starter pedal! Boy, I've got a long way to go...

[Desoto61]

do they give one or two u-joints most sets I've seen you need two to get the proprer angle, unless they figured it in with the angle of the new box.

There's one in the kit, though it doesn't fit the end of the AGR box I have, as long as your only mis-allignment was vertical (i.e. the the shaft is not offset to the left or right of the steering input, just not at the same angle as the new box, one joint shold work. A horizontal offset would require two joints and potentially a support. Considering the setup of the original I believe this is probably the case.

They DO say on the Ugly Truckling website that the bracket is for 72-77 Dodge 4x4 reverse rotation Saganaw power steering box so I guess they've got the dimensions figured out for that model. Desoto - I hope your AGR box is a good match. Thanks for posting your install details - it will definitely come in handy for me when I get there...

The AGR box is a 72-77 Dodge reverse rotation box, just rebuilt with their upgrades and improvements. They don't offer one as a stock number you can order from Summit or their web site but they will build one for you for the same price as their standard-rotation unit.

The instructions that came with the box specify a 78-80 (I think) Dodge reverse rotation box. Not sure what the difference is, and people have used either from what I could find. I've heard the later box is easier to find/buy.

Either way it fits and the pitman arm will mount up so it should be fine for my purposes.

[olgraybeard]

if you need a u joint http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...N=0&sst=subset

[Desoto61]

My next big project is to replace the third cross-member in the frame. I built a template and took it to a local fabrication shop who are going to cut and bend up some metal to match. They're a big shop so my little job isn't big on their list but the parts should be done early next week. I'll be sure to post pics.

In the meantime I've been working on the winch. I had dis-assembled it last year before I went away for work. I have the rebuild kit for it, I'm in the process of blasting and prepping the parts. All will get powder coated gloss black. The drum and the long brackets are at a local company that does powder coating. The rest I will do myself.

I did put the worm shaft back together with new bearings. MainSS did an amazing writeup on rebuilding the MU-2. Mine was in much better shape than his but I'll still be referring back to it as I re-assemble the parts.

[Desoto61]

Christmas in July!

In the interim I've been keeping my eyes open for all the other parts I'm going to need. The biggest one being the new motor. I found what seemed like a good candidate last week and just got back from going to check it out.



It's a Cummins 4BT rated at 130HP @ 2300 RPM. Came with all the accessories and parts, they even gave me a few extra filters that came in the truck.

Then when I got home my new fuel tank was waiting! It's a 38-gallon stainless steel tank with provisions for a return line. Chris Case builds them, it's beautiful work! I'll need to modify the tank mounting brackets to fit it in the frame since the original setup had been modified for the wrecker assembly.

[Charles Talbert]

It likely will not

Good point - I guess you really couldn't move the steering box so it had better mate up correctly.

Unless yours is different from most, it will not align. The most simple fix for the misalignment is to use a double u-joint and support the column under the dash.

[Desoto61]

Winch assembly

I've been cleaning and powder coating the last couple of days. Have most of the winch parts done. Still have the front bracket to do and the rear bracket and drum are at the local stripping company since they are too big for my equipment.

The gear case came out OK, I had some oil seep from the case as it was baking that affected the finish right around the shaft opening. Lesson learned is to support the part so that any leakage goes away from the coated surfaces. Pre-baking the parts can also help remove this oil but not always.

Regardless the affected area is still strongly adhered and solid, it's just not as glossy as the rest of the case. I may try to grind it off and re-coat that part but it could just make things worse so I may just leave it. With the drum and everything installed it won't be extremely noticable.

Because of the seepage and since I had plenty left over from the transfer case I de-greased the interior of the case and then painted it with Glyptol. Should help prevent further seepage and improve oil flow (not that it's an issue in these cases). I made a point to mask off the gasket surfaces and the machined ends of the worm gear openings in the housing. These are already a snug fit with the bearing supports, the paint would have just complicated that.

With the worm shaft end plates came out pretty good, as did the brake band cover. I pressed in the seals and races and should be ready to re-assembled. See the writeup in I linked to above lots of good info and I've been adding any tips and tricks I've picked up there.

[Desoto61]

Got the gear case back together. The rebuild kit I got didn't have enough gaskets to get proper end play, I couldn't even turn the shaft. So I had to track down some gasket paper. The big chains didn't carry much and only in one thickness. Finally found a decent selection at one of the smaller more commercial oriented places.

I played with the gaskets till I was just at the lower end play spec. Then I'd take it apart, apply some gasket sealant and bolt it back together, which inevitably slightly increased the thickness. So before I did the other side I re-adjusted the gaskets to get a few thousandths below spec such that when it was all done it was at or close to spec. Same applied to the drum shaft.

Once I got the drum shaft back in and end play set I put the two shaft keys for the drum in the freezer for a while to shrink them slightly. Then started them into their keyways and tapped them took a C-clamp and used it to press them in. Make sure you put the washer in first though!

I had some burrs on the keys from when I removed them so I had to smooth them out before I could get the drive key onto the keys and sliding freely.

I used stainless fasteners ($$$$) on the case vs fighting with painting the fasteners and then trying not to chip or damage it, and none of these fasteners are high stress. I also used some thread sealant on the drum shaft cover bolts since they go through into the case. I'll use grade 8 fasteners for the winch frame once the other two pieces come back from powder coat.

Then back to the frame.

[olgraybeard]

Stainless steel fasteners are equal to grade 5 and not as "brittle"