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Oil pump timing
From what I have learned and observed so far, you might have enough distributor adjustment to solve the problem without moving the oil pump.
While my truck is running much better, even at 24 deg worth of advance, I am still going to try and simply move the spark plug leads on the distributor cap, before going to the trouble of moving the pump. #1 spark plug will go to where the lead to #5 is presently, #5 will go to where #3 is now, etc. In other words, everything remains in order, just all the leads get moved one hole, in my case clock wise. Then I'll be faced with adjusting the distributor body counter clock wise to advance the spark. The opposite problem that I have now, but I might then have the adjustability at the distributor base plate to achieve the book timing.
However, in my case, the truck did not want to run even idle at the recommended setting of 4 deg BTDC. So I might just leave it, until the day I rebuild the engine and then I'll finally be able to figure all this out.
As far as needing choke to keep the truck at idle; My humble recommendation there would be to make sure your throttle linkage is set up right, then check the idle mixture. When my truck is warming up I can close the choke early and she idles OK. The previous owner of my truck had removed the hand throttle, so I put it back in and set it up and that helps during the gymnastic starting proceedure on the early PW trucks with a starter peg on the floor. Left foot on the clutch, right toe on the peg, right heel on the accelerator pedal was difficult. Then the truck starts and you have to release the starter without lifting or changing the accelerator position. Now with the hand throttle I can concentrate on the starter peg only. Up top my hands are playing choke and throttle.
Definitely get the choke and idle cleared up so it will at least run for the ignition check. Even then you will have to go back and make a final adjustment at the carb .
Check the choke linkage and wire cable housing also. Everything on my truck needed cleaning, lube and re adjustment
Charles is right when he mentions fuel and altitude. Even temperature and humidity play a role.
Also make sure the distributor is cleaned out and that the advance mechanism is working and the points (start with new ones) are clean and set before you start in with the timing light. Mine was a total mess.
This is all from my amateur experience working on my truck for the past year. I am no expert. Definitely go to the forum archives or look up some of Charles' or other posts on these and other subjects. The articles are worth their weight in PW parts.
From what I have learned and observed so far, you might have enough distributor adjustment to solve the problem without moving the oil pump.
While my truck is running much better, even at 24 deg worth of advance, I am still going to try and simply move the spark plug leads on the distributor cap, before going to the trouble of moving the pump. #1 spark plug will go to where the lead to #5 is presently, #5 will go to where #3 is now, etc. In other words, everything remains in order, just all the leads get moved one hole, in my case clock wise. Then I'll be faced with adjusting the distributor body counter clock wise to advance the spark. The opposite problem that I have now, but I might then have the adjustability at the distributor base plate to achieve the book timing.
However, in my case, the truck did not want to run even idle at the recommended setting of 4 deg BTDC. So I might just leave it, until the day I rebuild the engine and then I'll finally be able to figure all this out.
As far as needing choke to keep the truck at idle; My humble recommendation there would be to make sure your throttle linkage is set up right, then check the idle mixture. When my truck is warming up I can close the choke early and she idles OK. The previous owner of my truck had removed the hand throttle, so I put it back in and set it up and that helps during the gymnastic starting proceedure on the early PW trucks with a starter peg on the floor. Left foot on the clutch, right toe on the peg, right heel on the accelerator pedal was difficult. Then the truck starts and you have to release the starter without lifting or changing the accelerator position. Now with the hand throttle I can concentrate on the starter peg only. Up top my hands are playing choke and throttle.
Definitely get the choke and idle cleared up so it will at least run for the ignition check. Even then you will have to go back and make a final adjustment at the carb .
Check the choke linkage and wire cable housing also. Everything on my truck needed cleaning, lube and re adjustment
Charles is right when he mentions fuel and altitude. Even temperature and humidity play a role.
Also make sure the distributor is cleaned out and that the advance mechanism is working and the points (start with new ones) are clean and set before you start in with the timing light. Mine was a total mess.
This is all from my amateur experience working on my truck for the past year. I am no expert. Definitely go to the forum archives or look up some of Charles' or other posts on these and other subjects. The articles are worth their weight in PW parts.
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