Hello from Denmark

[Roald]

Hi

I just bought a WM300 export model from 1970 which has been in service in the danish military.

I have found a little rot above the windshield - I've been reading on the forum that this is normal on these models, but how should I repair it? I have not been able to find repair kits on the net?

here's a picture of the rust



The previous owner made a new window frame - the old was apperently beyond repair

[Roald]

Here a few pictures of the truck :-)

[gmharris]

First thing is to stop any further rusting. Clean out the loose rust as well as possible. Then apply rust converter. You can search the internet, there are plenty of products available. They will convert the rust to a protective black coating.

[Roald]

First thing is to stop any further rusting. Clean out the loose rust as well as possible. Then apply rust converter. You can search the internet, there are plenty of products available. They will convert the rust to a protective black coating.

Its difficult to see on the picture but there is small pot holes in the metal and when I get around to wirebrush/blast it, I'll probably find more weak places along the seam.

I was wondering how to recreate the roof top moulding as its a bit thin in places. Are there repair pieces available somewhere?

The truck is going to the painters afterwards.

/Roald

[Gordon Maney]

Its difficult to see on the picture but there is small pot holes in the metal and when I get around to wirebrush/blast it, I'll probably find more weak places along the seam.

I was wondering how to recreate the roof top moulding as its a bit thin in places. Are there repair pieces available somewhere?

The truck is going to the painters afterwards.

/Roald

I am not aware of any pre-formed repair panels for this situation. In worst cases, some have cut panels from other cabs. It is a difficult situation you have. Repair panels would likely have to be formed by hand. Some repair strategies have involved the elimination of this seam.

[Roald]

I am not aware of any pre-formed repair panels for this situation. In worst cases, some have cut panels from other cabs. It is a difficult situation you have. Repair panels would likely have to be formed by hand. Some repair strategies have involved the elimination of this seam.

Yes, my initial tought was to remove the seam as it looks a bit difficult to make new repair panels look like original anyways. Maybe I'm going to outsource this one.

It would be nearly impossible to find replacement parts in my country as most of the military trucks was exported of the country about 20 years ago and they would probably be in worse condition than my truck anyways.

[gmharris]

I would try to avoid cutting out the entire seam as this may cause alignment and strength problems. If the seam is in good enough condition, you might try just patching in the holes and filling the rest of the seam.

I have wanted to learn how to do body lead. Body lead may be a good option for you. Leading is how the roof seams on some American cars were sealed. This is a good way to permanently fill seams and the amount of heat required is lower than for welding or brazing.

Eastwood has a kit with all the materials you will need. It is around $100.

[Roald]

I would try to avoid cutting out the entire seam as this may cause alignment and strength problems. If the seam is in good enough condition, you might try just patching in the holes and filling the rest of the seam.

I have wanted to learn how to do body lead. Body lead may be a good option for you. Leading is how the roof seams on some American cars were sealed. This is a good way to permanently fill seams and the amount of heat required is lower than for welding or brazing.

Eastwood has a kit with all the materials you will need. It is around $100.

Thanks, I'll probably use that method :-)

[Tom Petroff]

A quick search of this site revealed numerous threads on this repair.
Not sure if your able to search this site with your log in statis but hopefuly this link will take you to one such thread.

http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...ht=seam+repair

Also numerous siumilar threads on the the power wagon page
Under archives.
"seam repair"

http://www.t137.com/swish-e/swish.cg...dr_e_year=2011

TGP

[Roald]

A quick search of this site revealed numerous threads on this repair.
Not sure if your able to search this site with your log in statis but hopefuly this link will take you to one such thread.

http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...ht=seam+repair

Also numerous siumilar threads on the the power wagon page
Under archives.
"seam repair"

http://www.t137.com/swish-e/swish.cg...dr_e_year=2011

TGP

Nice, I had seen the first thread but not the ones in the second link

I'll start reading :-)

/Roald

[Charles Talbert]

Thanks, I'll probably use that method :-)

We have done a lot of lead repair over the years. It must have a solid surface to adhere too. The only way to permanently fix rusted out or rust thinned areas is to remove the bad metal and replace it. Once the initial repair is done; finishing with lead works great and is permanent if done right. This can certainly be done successfully, it will require significant, time, patience, and know how, using the right tools.

Someone mentioned using a rust converter. I won't get started on that; but I will say I would not use it if I was offered a lifetime supply. It is crap; believe me, I learned it the hard way, to the tune of $25,000 out of pocket.

[gmharris]

Twenty Five thousand dollar mistake from using rust converter? That's quite a mistake. I'd have to completely destroy two or three of my trucks.

I'm not suggesting rust converter as the basis for any repair. I've just had good luck with using it to stop rust until I can get around to a permanent solution.

Lead body work will require an absolutely clean surface to begin with. The first step is tinning the metal which will only be successful with a correctly prepared surface. If you have soldered, you know the process and how a perfectly a clean surface is essential to getting the solder to flow.

[Roald]

We have done a lot of lead repair over the years. It must have a solid surface to adhere too. The only way to permanently fix rusted out or rust thinned areas is to remove the bad metal and replace it. Once the initial repair is done; finishing with lead works great and is permanent if done right. This can certainly be done successfully, it will require significant, time, patience, and know how, using the right tools.

Someone mentioned using a rust converter. I won't get started on that; but I will say I would not use it if I was offered a lifetime supply. It is crap; believe me, I learned it the hard way, to the tune of $25,000 out of pocket.

my plan was to remove the seam, blast it with some kind of media (maybe something a litte less aggressive than sand)

Then get a somebody with a bit more welding experience than me to repair the damage and then fill it with lead.

In one of the old post's, somebody wrote about welding a flattent brake tube on instead of the seam?

The rust damage seems to be concentrated on the first 20 cm on the right and left side.

I have never trusted rust conversion products. The truck will at some point get a complete repaint

The truck is always parked inside a dry building and has got a treatment of thin anti corrosion oil so further rust should not occur.

/Roald