Any one know off the top of there head bed wood diamensions for a 2nd series bed.
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type 2 bed wood diamensions
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Originally posted by KLEMM View PostAny one know off the top of there head bed wood diamensions for a 2nd series bed.
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You might try the following thread. There is a little information there that may be of help:
http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...highlight=poll
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Originally posted by KLEMM View PostBed is off of a 51 power wagon. It has places for 6 boards. Judging from your pictures it must be a early series. Thank you for the info.
Thanks to Todd Somers for the information.
Click:
http://www.t137.com/ToddSomers/Bed/index.htm
TGPWDX & Misc. Pics.
http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
"47" Dodge WDX WW
"52" Dodge M-37 WW
"54" Willys M38A1
"65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
"77" Chev. K-30 400T,205,4.56 "No-Spin"
"84" Chev, K-30 Cummins 6-BTA 400,205,3.73Locker
"86" Chev, M1028A2 (K30) 6.2,400.205,4.56 Locker
"99" Dodge Durango "Limited Slip"
"99" Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4"No-Spin"
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Originally posted by KLEMM View PostThe last picture in Toms photo looks like the bed for my 50 power wagon. Are the board lengths and diamaters the same for a 1st and early 2nd series bed.
TGPWDX & Misc. Pics.
http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
"47" Dodge WDX WW
"52" Dodge M-37 WW
"54" Willys M38A1
"65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
"77" Chev. K-30 400T,205,4.56 "No-Spin"
"84" Chev, K-30 Cummins 6-BTA 400,205,3.73Locker
"86" Chev, M1028A2 (K30) 6.2,400.205,4.56 Locker
"99" Dodge Durango "Limited Slip"
"99" Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4"No-Spin"
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William,
We missed you at the West VA road rally, but I bet you were hunting up north. I had my early 2nd series truck there and it was just as Clint and Tom describes.
One other thing, on the early 2nd series there is a rectangular hole cut in the wood covered by a plate, for the sender access. This is just like with the 1st series. You can see this in my avatar at left.
I got white oak from a local country sawmill and after letting it dry, had it planed, then I rabbetted it for the bed strips. Or you can buy the kit from Mar-k or Bruce Horkey.
Dave
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bed wood cost comparison
Great looking final product Doc Dave. How would you compare the costs between horkey or mar_k and your local wood and mill work? I've been thinking of buying local as well and doing the rabbeting as well. I'm wondering if there's enough price difference to go the local route (here in baltimore county). Thanks.
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There are several advantages to going to a country sawmill:
1. The wood is significantly cheaper than kiln dried wood like what is sold in the kits.
2. You can specify white oak, which is the best. Horkey and Mar-k use red oad which is not as rot resistant as white oak.
3. you can hand select the pieces and get all clear wood (no significant knots). Knots tend to cause warping
4. you can specify what thickness you want. I had them saw it a hair over 1" thick and a little wider and longer than I needed. I told them to leave it rough cut (again it is less expensive this way). Then I air dried it for a year. The rule of thumb is one year per inch. I laid the boards out in my garage and stacked them with thin sticks between the layers.
5. After they dried, I cut them to the right width and length, then planed them down to 13/16". Then I rabbetted the boards. From Bruce Horkey I bought their varnish finishing package which worked very nicely. It included marine varnish, thinner, and sandpaper.
I installed the boards with stainless steel bed strips from Mar-K.
All in all I got a very nice bed at a minimum cost.
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I am sure you had fun moose hunting!
Did you get your questions answered? I know in the archives of this site or Joe's site there are postings as to the actual board widths and lengths.
Of course the two outside boards are wider than the inner 4 on your truck.
Your truck is just like mine bed wise.
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