Removing hubs/drums

[Slow and Stubbor]

I need some assistance. It's time to do some brake work on my '59 FFPW. I have the rear axles removed and am now trying to figure out how one removes the hubs without damaging the brake parts inside. Front hubs will be next so all help appreciated. Thanks

[Gordon Maney]

The shoes have to be adjusted all the way in. If wheel cylinder pistons are frozen in their bores that can be problematic.

Do you have the flat head screws removed? Are you wanting to remove the drums first, or are you pulling the hub and drum assemblies in one piece?

[Slow and Stubbor]

Removing hubs and drums

Thanks

The shoes have to be adjusted all the way in. Is there a convention to know which direction (up or down for left and right wheels) - to know which way adjusts in? If wheel cylinder pistons are frozen in their bores that can be problematic. I don't think so.. I had great brakes until I belive one wheelk cylinder failed just recently - fluid puddle.

Do you have the flat head screws removed? Allen headed flat studs, about 1/2" dia I see? Do these connect drum and hub? Are you wanting to remove the drums first, or are you pulling the hub and drum assemblies in one piece? Is one way better of worse?

Thanks again.

[Gordon Maney]

Thanks

The shoes have to be adjusted all the way in. Is there a convention to know which direction (up or down for left and right wheels) - to know which way adjusts in? If wheel cylinder pistons are frozen in their bores that can be problematic. I don't think so.. I had great brakes until I belive one wheelk cylinder failed just recently - fluid puddle.

Do you have the flat head screws removed? Allen headed flat studs, about 1/2" dia I see? Do these connect drum and hub? Are you wanting to remove the drums first, or are you pulling the hub and drum assemblies in one piece? Is one way better of worse?

Thanks again.

Examining the adjusters from the backside of the backing plate, you will note one at roughly 7 oclock and one roughly at 5 oclock.

The one at 7, the one on the left, you would loosen by turning it clockwise. The onie at 5, the one on the right, you would loosen by turning it counter clockwise. These are not something you turn and turn. They have their entire effect in less than one revolution, and most of your benefit may be realized in 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Don't get carried away trying to rotat them farther than they can, you may break something.

The flat head screws attacht the drum to the hub, yes. Neither way is better, it depends on your agenda. If you don't want to disturbe the wheel bearings, you can leave the hub on.

[Slow and Stubbor]

Hubs/Drums

Thanks. That should keep me busy for a day or two.

[Jerry Henry]

"Examining the adjusters from the backside of the backing plate, you will note one at roughly 7 oclock and one roughly at 5 oclock."

I don't get this. My drums look nothing like my digital clock.???
:):)

[Frank Irons]

Examining the adjusters from the backside of the backing plate, you will note one at roughly 7 oclock and one roughly at 5 oclock.

The one at 7, the one on the left, you would loosen by turning it clockwise. The onie at 5, the one on the right, you would loosen by turning it counter clockwise. These are not something you turn and turn. They have their entire effect in less than one revolution, and most of your benefit may be realized in 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Don't get carried away trying to rotat them farther than they can, you may break something.

The flat head screws attacht the drum to the hub, yes. Neither way is better, it depends on your agenda. If you don't want to disturbe the wheel bearings, you can leave the hub on.

I would use the 10 oclock and 2 oclock adjusters.

Frank

[powerwagontim]

I find it tons easier to remove the hubs and drums as a unit. They are sometimes incredibly difficult to seperate even once removed. I have a piece of a broken off rear axle that I cut off about 6" back from the flange. I use this to seperate the hub from the drum once they are sitting flat on the floor, and once the 3 screws are removed. Occasionally they basically fall away from each other, but other times it may take 15 or more really good whacks with a 3 pound hammer to get them apart. Keep in mind, I am usually taking parts trucks apart, not a daily driver that needs some annual maintanance.
But back to getting them off in the first place. Try rotating the upper adjusters. It is a cam on the back, so if you go one full turn you are right back where you started. You kind of have to go by feel. Now here is the tip I discovered recently and have used it very successfully on half a dozen axles since. Remove the nuts from the bottom adjusters. An air impact gun works well for this. The goal is for them not to turn while getting the nuts off, and usually they stay put. Once the nuts are off, drive them into the inside of the drum. This will allow the bottoms of the shoes to retract far more than the adjusters ever will, and the drum and hub will be off with the greatest of ease.
Once it is off, put it down on the floor, and its time to get the 3 screws out. I have a drag link socket, and it is ground down a bit to fit the slots. Using the air impact gun, and putting all of your weight down on the gun, EASE into the trigger and gradually increase it, it will usually work, now and then it wont and I hit it with the torch to heat it up. They always come out then.
I sometimes find the lower adjuster nuts rusted away beyond what a socket can grab. Then its time for either the torch or a cut-off wheel. I dont worry about losing one here and there, I have a couple of shoeboxes full of them!
For putting it all back together, buy a copy of Gordons Survival Guide, he will walk you through that part.
Hope this helps,
Tim

[mdvberg]

A new techniqe was posted on Joe's site recently. Seems pretty straightforward for really hard to remove drums.


http://www.t137.com/archives/wwwboar...s/3690493.html

[mdvberg]

Referenced new technique was just posted above by powerwagontim...guess I should have read all the way through!

[Gordon Maney]

I would use the 10 oclock and 2 oclock adjusters.

Frank

Yes. What was I thinking? Sheesh.