I inherited my grampa's 54 flat fender power wagon. What a truck. Needs lots of work, got it running but doesn't have much power or compression. It's also hard to shift gears without lots of grinding. Any tips ther? Got the brakes working, but it can hardly pull third gear let alone fourth. The motor has a few cylinders with just 40 psi. Put some oil in and rechecked compression but didn't help. Guessing it's valves are gummed up or shot. I've got a 68 318 and was wondering if they will bolt up to the tranny in there so I can keep the pto winch. That sure makes the look of this old truck. Think it was a mining service truck up here in northern minnesota. It had a boom of the front, and 1/4 thick angle bent around all the fenders and running boards. This looks like a very good site for info. Thanks looks like I need to get the premium upgrade though. Thanks
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Originally posted by Skinny kid View PostI inherited my grampa's 54 flat fender power wagon. What a truck. Needs lots of work, got it running but doesn't have much power or compression. It's also hard to shift gears without lots of grinding. Any tips ther? Got the brakes working, but it can hardly pull third gear let alone fourth. The motor has a few cylinders with just 40 psi. Put some oil in and rechecked compression but didn't help. Guessing it's valves are gummed up or shot. I've got a 68 318 and was wondering if they will bolt up to the tranny in there so I can keep the pto winch. That sure makes the look of this old truck. Think it was a mining service truck up here in northern minnesota. It had a boom of the front, and 1/4 thick angle bent around all the fenders and running boards. This looks like a very good site for info. Thanks looks like I need to get the premium upgrade though. Thanks
There is a way to keep the winch, but I don't know it?
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Originally posted by Skinny kid View PostI inherited my grampa's 54 flat fender power wagon. What a truck. Needs lots of work, got it running but doesn't have much power or compression. It's also hard to shift gears without lots of grinding. Any tips ther? Got the brakes working, but it can hardly pull third gear let alone fourth. The motor has a few cylinders with just 40 psi. Put some oil in and rechecked compression but didn't help. Guessing it's valves are gummed up or shot. I've got a 68 318 and was wondering if they will bolt up to the tranny in there so I can keep the pto winch. That sure makes the look of this old truck. Think it was a mining service truck up here in northern minnesota. It had a boom of the front, and 1/4 thick angle bent around all the fenders and running boards. This looks like a very good site for info. Thanks looks like I need to get the premium upgrade though. Thanks
The early transmission which would have been stock in your truck is non-synchro; it will require some special technique to operate it successfully. You need to learn how to double clutch and a few other specialty tips so you don't damage it.
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Thanks for the info. I've heard of double clutching before but never have done it. Whats the best way to check valves. Take the head off and go from there. my grandpa always loved these power wagons and jeeps. Probably because he used both in wwII. I remember one time he had put his little willys keep through the ice by shore and he used the boom of of the power wagon to lift the jeep out and backed away. Think I was hooked then. Felt pretty proud when I inherited it. Gramps would be proud.
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Once you are reasonably sure the valves, seats, and guides are the major issue as your compression test did show. Then it's time to pull the head, and remove the valves for further investigation. Whatever that reveals will determine what you will need to do next. You can see the pistons then as well and investigate the condition of the cylinder walls also. Based on what these checks turn up, you can determine whether a valve job alone is worthwhile, or if you need to think about a full rebuild of the engine while you are this far into it. If there is significant wear on the cylinder walls, such as they may have become out of round and are cone shaped. If you see evidence of this in the mix, it is likely you will not see any great difference in performance until a full rebuild is done.
What was the oil pressure reading after the engine warmed to normal operating temp? That speaks volumes also; low oil pressure coupled with low compression usually points toward a full rebuild being needed.
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Originally posted by Skinny kid View PostThanks for the info. I've heard of double clutching before but never have done it. Whats the best way to check valves. Take the head off and go from there. my grandpa always loved these power wagons and jeeps. Probably because he used both in wwII. I remember one time he had put his little willys keep through the ice by shore and he used the boom of of the power wagon to lift the jeep out and backed away. Think I was hooked then. Felt pretty proud when I inherited it. Gramps would be proud.
Contact me... I may be able to put you in touch with some people that may be close to where you are.
Good luck!
CD1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
1954 Ford 860 tractor
1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS
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