Freeze plug install

[sleddrg]

Has anyone had any luck with freeze plug installations on 230 engine. I installed a new metal one for the one that rusted out and it didn't want to go in very nice. It didn't want to go, almost like the hole wasn't round in block. I tried a different freeze plug with same result and cleaned block hole with small sanding drum only to finally grind on freeze plug so it would finally start in hole. I drove it in with a socket on a extention keeping it straight only to have it cocked and not totally flushed straight. It looks like it will seal but don't know, it sure doesn't look perfect and I'm debating putting RTV around the edge. My past experience on jeep motors I used brass freeze plugs and they seamed easy. The ones that came for the 230 are metal and are like a concave silver dollar. Should I start over or let it ride? Should I do all the freeze plugs even if they are not leaking? It's the one by the distributer, kind of a pain to get to. On a good note I sure got alot of dirt and sand out the block when I took the old plug out! Yepee

[gmharris]

I didn't have any problem with the freeze plugs fitting tightly. But, if you want to do all the plugs correctly, I say you should probably just take off the fender (hopefully, the bolts are in reasonable condition). It's so much easier to get to the engine and then you can replace all the freeze plugs. The freeze plug by the distributor is a piece of cake to get to with the fender off.

You will get just as much dirt (corrosion, core sand?) from behind the other bottom freeze plug. There's also quite a bit of dirt that can be flushed out by taking out the pipe plug near the bottom front of the block, although I doubt it causes any real problem. There's even dirt that can be flushed out by removing the top freeze plug in the head.

Problem is, when you have such easy access, then you want to start doing other things like cleaning, painting and re-wiring. It can seem to be never-ending. Depends how thorough you want to be and how long you can accept having your PW of of service.

Otherwise, fire it up and see if it leaks. If it doesn't leak,you should be good to go if the freeze plug is in securely as the cooling system is not pressurized. The other freeze plugs are probably not in much better condition, but they will probably give plenty of warning.

Are you sure you got the right size freeze plugs? I was surprised to learn that freeze plugs are manufactured with as little as 1/16 of an inch difference between sizes. Trying to trim one down seems like a sure recipe for leaks.

I always use a little sealant when installing the plugs. I don't think that using sealant after the fact would work very well.

[sleddrg]

freeze plug reply

Front fenders are off, heads off, and water pumps off. I got the plugs from Vintage PW parts and they all seemed to be good quality and had alittle tapper to edge. The block freeze plug hole looked good and it was a straight shot with fenders off that is why I was so puzzled why I had to grind on it to get it started and then why it went alittle sidways when it bottomed out. I'm scared to keep tapping on it I don't want to crack block. I got some brass freeze plugs from napa but they are shaped like alittle cup and they would stick out. I guess I could cut them down maybe. After replacing the leaking one I'm scared to go after the other ones if they won't fit. thanks for INPUT

[gmharris]

Go back to the Napa or try a different one. They have the disc shaped freeze plugs. That's where I got mine.

They have quite a selection (assuming most NAPA's carry basically the same stock). So, many in fact, they may have trouble finding the right ones.

When I asked one guy for the small plug in the cylinder head, he said they didn't have them, but could order them, but I would have to order ten. When I went back to order the plugs, the next guy said, "We have those" and went to the parts bin and found them.

When I went to a different NAPA to get the large plugs, same story. The guy said they didn't have them. As I was walking out, he said, "Wait a minute". He then found the correct brass ones.

I can't see why you should be having problems putting the right freeze plug in. After all, they expand after they are hit, so they have to be on the small side.

You might try getting a micrometer to see if there is any size variance between the plugs. If you don't have one already or can't borrow one, Harbor Freight sells a very useable electronic one. It often goes on sale for $15.00.

Since you have gone so far, I would recommend pulling the water distribution tube if you haven't done so already. It makes cleaning the block much easier and you need to check the tube anyway.

[Paul Cook]

A possible installation error

You said, "I drove it in with a socket on a extention..." That suggests that you were trying to seat the outer circumference of the core plug. You also said, "The ones that came for the 230 are metal and are like a concave silver dollar." That suggests you were installing them with the inside out. If you are doing it right, they are CONVEX (domed side out).

That will not create the "dimple" in the center that occurs when a core plug is installed correctly.

NAPA is certainly at fault because they did not explain this.

[sleddrg]

thanks

Thanks for the input everyone, I will let you know how it turns out. I'm probably going to pull the engine for a rebuild due to other issues discussed in my other rebuild or not post so it may be a while.

[DrPepper]

IMHO...don't use RTV...!!!

The problem with RTV is everyone uses to much and it has a habit of coming off in chunks and getting where you don't want it. Use Aviation Permatex #3, (NAPA has it but the #3 is not shown) looks like molasses in a small can. Comes with a brush and I've taken parts apart years after assembly and the stuff is still stuck. It's a mess to work with if you fumble it but I always have a can around.
Here is a link to the Permatex web site:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._Sealant_a.htm

DrPepper