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  • #1

    Oil lines- advice needed

    The engine's in the truck but the lines don't seem to make sense. I think i have a bypass filter setup, standard filter canister, but I'm not sure.

    I've read lots of posts here and on the web, but I'm still not sure which ports to use, or to plug.

    Hopefully the two pics make sense to the 251 engine savy.
    Thanks.
    Attached Files
    Tags: by pass, engine ports, filter, lines, oil lines
  • #2
    If you feel like driving down to Annapolis area you are welcome to look at my 230. But is yours a 251?

    Are you doing this or is the shop who pulled it??

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    • #3
      oil lines?

      Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have a 251. The shop that pulled it. He says there's an extra line he can't figure out where it goes. I want to make sure he doesn't mis-plumb this cause I know it would destroy the engine- and I'm not sure the previous owner did it right either.

      From what I could tell in the pic on this and other sites the 251 is different, but the major difference is based on the type of filter setup. And thanks, I would like to see the setup you have on yours.

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      • #4
        Of the two tappings above the oil fill tube hole, the one in the rib of the casting (the one most forward) is the oil preasure sending port. The one slightly above and aft of that is for the block water jacket drain.

        The next hole aft, labeled with a question mark, is for the oil dipstick tube.
        1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
        1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
        2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
        1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
        1954 Ford 860 tractor
        1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
        UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS

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        • #5
          Appreciate the feedback and oil recommendations

          Thanks, I appreciate the response. Funny, I forgot about the dipstick hole! Opps.

          I'm guessing the attached pics are correct (manual page and revised port diagram) for my 67 WM300 and filter setup using the ports as you stated in your post.

          I'm going to run a straight 30 weight oil (John Deere) for the break in period (1,000 miles) and then switch to a 10w-30 synthetic- maybe Castrol?? Not sure what makes sense for a newly remaned engine under normal (not heavy) use. I found lots of suggestions here, but open for ideas on the right oil
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Probably, any decent oil of the proper weight is going to work fine. But, as an added measure, I'm going to use a zinc additive during the break-in of any new engine I have.

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            • #7
              synthetic oil

              I stick with straight 30 or 10-30 in my 230's. IMO unless you're going to put more than 10K on a PW in a year there's no benifit to be gained from the longevity of synthetic, since you ought to change oil at least anually, no matter the mileage. Also tough engines to keep dry with regular 10-30 much less synthetic, lol.

              Michael

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              • #8
                I agree. In addition, I don't think it's a good idea to use synthetic oil during break in.

                In the old days, they used to use a break in oil to help the rings seat in new car engines. I think it was just non-detergent oil. That's probably where the idea came from that a straight weight oil should be used for break in.

                I just don't see any reason to spend the money on synthetic oil for old FFPW engines.

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