Clutch Problem?

[maineSS]

I had another PW owner drive my truck to attempt double-clutch downshifting, as I'm not able to get into a lower gear until the truck is moving very slowly. He had no success, either- looks like this may be a clutch problem? Also, the truck will sometimes go out of gear during compression braking downhill- perhaps the two problems are related to the clutch? Upshifting has never been a problem, I often don't have to double clutch.

On another note, I bought the Baldwin B-164 bypass filter and base to replace the stock unit with spin-on convenience and to assure future filter availability. When I get the install done, I'll do a writeup.

[Gordon Maney]

If it is coming out of gear I don't see that as a clutch issue. That is internal to the transmission. Unless you have a really loose pilot bushing, that could cause it also.

[gmharris]

Not on this particular transmission, but on a Chevy, worn shifter forks allowed enough play so that upon deceleration, the trans would jump out of gear.

[Charles Talbert]

This is definitely an internal trans issue, not a clutch issue. Most likely a combination of wear issues going on is the cause. The best fix is simple, go ahead and do a major trans rebuild. It will take care of all the possibilities, you will be glad you did it that way.

[maineSS]

What should we be looking for on teardown- haven't done any before, especially a spur gear type. When I took the top off for the backup light mod, I didn't see any chewed up gears, forks & sliders looked & worked OK. Can I leave the case in place, and remove everything thru the top?

[Charles Talbert]

What should we be looking for on teardown- haven't done any before, especially a spur gear type. When I took the top off for the backup light mod, I didn't see any chewed up gears, forks & sliders looked & worked OK. Can I leave the case in place, and remove everything thru the top?

Much easier with the trans pulled out. Usually jumping out of gear issues are shift rail & bore wear, ball and spring wear, snap ring issues holding everything together on the mainshaft, or synchronizer issues are the most likely.

[Gordon Maney]

I'm with Charles. I can't imagine working on the transmission in the truck. Not to mention you can't get the input shaft and front case bearing out with the transmission in the truck. You would hate trying to do it that way.

Also, you need to replace the pilot bushing. Also examine the throwout bearing, and most likely replace it. You could remove the clutch and inspect all the parts.

[Charles Talbert]

I'm with Charles. I can't imagine working on the transmission in the truck. Not to mention you can't get the input shaft and front case bearing out with the transmission in the truck. You would hate trying to do it that way.

Also, you need to replace the pilot bushing. Also examine the throwout bearing, and most likely replace it. You could remove the clutch and inspect all the parts.

I agree; I would certainly cover all these steps in the process.

[maineSS]

Is there a way to drop the tranny without removing the engine?

[Charles Talbert]

Remove the cab floor panel that is over it. Simply disconnect everything from it; get it secured safely on a proper jack; remove the 4 bolts holding it onto the flywheel housing; slide it back to free the pilot shaft; and lower it down.

[wayneh]

I pulled my transmission (to rebuilt it....) earlier this year. You do need a transmission jack (maybe I really am getting weak....) because it weighs almost 200 pounds. Taking it out is eight bolts. Four to the bell housing, and four to the drive shaft. Oh yea, the pan on the body needs to come out. (that took forever for me to put it back in...)

While you are in it, you may want to think about new bushings in the clutch linkage. VPW sells a nice kit that makes it like new. Mine were very worn out. And after all the drama to pull the trans, I would look pretty carefully at the clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bushing. Those are cheap parts compared to the five dollars an hour I am worth....

Wayne

[maineSS]

Do yo have to support the engine during/after tranny removal? I recall seeing a rear mount, can't remember if it's on the engine bellhousing or tranny casting...

[gmharris]

No need to support the rear of the engine. Trans removal is about as simple as it looks. The trans is heavy and somewhat awkward to get back in. Make sure you use a couple cutoff bolts in the top holes to guide the trans in an out without putting weight on the input shaft.

A trans jack is nice, but a floor jack will work, if you have help. The Harbor Freight trans adapter helps some in holding the trans on the jack and getting it lined up. I rigged up a furniture dolly to support the jack. It rolls around quite a bit better. Might be better to rent a trans jack, if you don't have one.

I prefer to work from above when guiding the trans back in.

[wayneh]

And the cut off bolts are not home depot bolts... I think they may be 7/16 fine thread or something I did not have around here. You really need to use those to line things up when you put it back in. I also used a transmission input shaft as a tool to make sure the clutch was lined up ok when I tightened up the pressure plate.

Wayne

[gmharris]

Yes, a clutch alignment tool is a big help and they are cheap. You won't need one unless you take off the clutch. But, you should do that anyway since you have the trans out.

OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware) has a great selection of nuts and bolts. If one is near you, that's the place to go.