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Front knuckles and axles?

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  • Front knuckles and axles?

    Finally finished total dis-assembly of my 49 B-1-PW and am now starting the build. Starting with front axle seals, bearings, ect and already have a question. Am I missing something or is my truck? when pulling axle on left (drivers) side the knuckle is like a big u-joint with large bearings and joined together. When removing the right (passenger side), the knuckle was a two piece without bearings? I am new to these trucks but should both left and right knuckles be the same? or are they different?

    Also if anyone has a method for removing the brass inner axle bushings and seals I sure would like to hear about it.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Sounds like one is the bendix Weiss stlye (bearings) and the other is the standard tracta joint. Use the search function on here to find wear tolerances on axles and bushings, tips for setting up preload on the knuckle, methods of removing the inner bushings, how much and what type of grease to use, the best way to put the grease in the knuckle, and the proper torque and technique for wheel bearing preload. And get a service manual.
    1949 B-1 PW
    1950 B-2 PW
    1965 WM300
    1968 D200 camper special (W200 conversion)
    1970 Challenger RT 383
    1987 Ramcharger 4x4
    1991.5 W250 diesel
    1999 Jeep Cherokee limited 4x4
    2008 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

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    • #3
      Will do, have a service manual but still does not answer all due to the figures vary from model to model. Is it normal to have two diff knuckles? just curious. Have found several threads on type of grease and how to pack but can not find anything in the search for how to remove the brass bushing, only several threads on bushing size and how some came out with axle.

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      • #4
        Not quite sure why people assume you don't have a manual because you ask a question. Sure, they can help, but I've found them lacking and I don't think they have ever solved a mystery for me. I've had much better luck just asking the question. For instance, the manual won't help you figure out that there are two different types of joints that can be used in the FFPW knuckle.

        Here's a link to a page that will be much more helpful than any
        manual if you haven't already found it: http://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/steeringknuckle

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        • #5
          Removing the inner seal and bushing is easy. You just need to hook it with something and yank it out. One of my slide hammers has a hook on it and it yanked out the inner seal just fine.

          It's easy to make the correct tool, but a little difficult to explain. Make a rectangle of steel just long enough to fit in the axle tube, but small enough to pass through the bushing or seal. Make an elongated hole in the center of the rectangle and pass a bolt through it. The elongated hole will allow the rectangle to lay over close enough to the bolt so that the rectangle and the head of the bolt can be passed through the bushing/seal. When you try to pull the rectangle back, it will stand up and catch the bushing/seal. You can put a big socket, some washers and a nut on the end of the bolt, if necessary, to pull the bushing and seal out.

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          • #6
            Thanks gmharris, the link to the knuckle rebuild is helpful. I will try the puller tool for the bushing tomorrow (your description of your tool made total sense)

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            • #7
              Originally posted by texcwa View Post
              Thanks gmharris, the link to the knuckle rebuild is helpful. I will try the puller tool for the bushing tomorrow (your description of your tool made total sense)
              If you round the ends of the steel rectangle to fit the shape of the tube, the tool will work better.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gmharris View Post
                Not quite sure why people assume you don't have a manual because you ask a question.
                Probably the part about "I'm new to these trucks".
                1949 B-1 PW
                1950 B-2 PW
                1965 WM300
                1968 D200 camper special (W200 conversion)
                1970 Challenger RT 383
                1987 Ramcharger 4x4
                1991.5 W250 diesel
                1999 Jeep Cherokee limited 4x4
                2008 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

                Comment


                • #9
                  I doubt it is original, as far as I know the Bendix Weiss joints were only used on the military trucks. They are considered stronger and more flexible than the tracta joints.

                  They can be swapped to the PW if you get the right ones. Not sure there is any problem with them being different, probably not any benefit either.

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