timing cover gasket?

[wayneh]

Well, after replacing my cylinder head gasket and stopping that pesky water leak, I noticed another slight leak around the pulley on the timing chain cover. I've read the archives, and looked at my Chrysler Industrial engine book, but I can't find much information on the "plate" and gasket that are behind the timing chain cover.

I've ordered a new gasket set, I've got the new oil seal (and a speedi-sleeve) that I've been wanting to replace, but I wonder if anyone might have any advice on this plate thing. The hardest part for me is removing the radiator and shell since I work alone, but I'd prefer to do this job once if anyone has any suggestions to help.

I checked and cleaned the water distribution tube last year (which solved the overheating problem...) but I will pull the tube to check how it is doing since the radiator will be out.

I'm not talking a lot of leak here, but it is a slight drip that is annoying.

Thank you

Wayne

[Cheyenne Dave]

Wayne,

It's a bit of a pain, but having that radiator out of the way is huge. But once you've had it apart, a re-assembled using never-sieze, it comes apart again in short order.

You are going to need all that room to pull the crank pulley and forward engine support, just to get at the timing cover. So you also need to consider how you intend to support the front of the engine.

To replace all the mounting plate gasket you will need to remove the timing set. Be sure to crank the engine over by hand to align the timing marks before removal of any timing componants!

I like to used Hi-Tack gasket dressing, but you may have another preference. This also a great time to chase all the threads in the face of the block, which allows for more accurate torque values and well-sealed bolts, upon reassembly. All bolts going in "wet" holes should receive a good quality sealing compound.

Inspect the rubber isolator mount and replace if needed

The timing cover needs to be carefully centered as it gets tightened down or the crank-seal will leak. There was a special alignment tool the dealerships had, but I have never seen one...I use the crank pulley.

It's late, I may have overlooked something. Let me know ... and have fun!

CD

[wayneh]

Dave: Thank you for the great advice. I was afraid the gasket closest to the block involved more drama than I wanted. Maybe I should live with that little water leak.....

No way I'd try this with the radiator in. Plus, it will give me a chance to look at my water distribution tube again.

Regarding the bolts... The one lesson I have really learned in the past year working on this is check every bolt that goes into the block, clean it, and use sealer on it if it goes into the block. I should buy stock in permatex #2 and Permatex thread sealer....

Without things apart in front of me I don't know what I'll do to support the engine, but I'm sure I'll figure something out. I was worried about that, but when I spoke to VPW and asked I probably was not clear what I was doing, and they indicated I did not have to do that.

Thank you again.

Wayne

[53Crusher]

Timing cover gasket

Wayne-

I've attached two pictures for you. You can see how the engine support bracket will need to be removed to get to the timing cover.

[wayneh]

Tim: thank you. That looks great!

Is that a paint drip near the front left freeze plug??
(Just kidding!!!)

Wayne

[53Crusher]

Drip?

Naw...... I think it's just some wax buildup that didn't get buffed out :-)

Tim

[gmharris]

As Cheyenne Dave said, the timing cover needs to be centered on the crank. Otherwise, there will be more pressure (and wear) on one side of the seal. So, install the crank pulley part way while the timing cover bolts are still loose. Then tighten the bolts.

I think you have to install the front motor mount before you can finally install the crank pulley. I don't remember now, but I had remove the pulley because I had it out of sequence.

[wayneh]

Thank you for the good ideas and sharing what you know. I'll take some pics and post as I go. I have to spend time this weekend wiring up the new shop, my wife says that is more important than a little water leak. I'll be up at 0500 tomorrow do I can do both!

Thanks again.

Wayne

[wayneh]

Say, I noticed on this site it says to get that plate off there is one bolt you need to access from inside the block, accessed by taking the pan off. (again..) does that ring a bell?

http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph..._teardown.html



Thank you

Wayne

[53Crusher]

Secret screw

Um.... yea there is a hidden screw that has to be accessed from the oil pan. You WERE thinking of fixing that oil pan leak as well right? You can see it in the upper right hand corner ( engine is upside down ) by the chain.

[wayneh]

yea... well the funny part is I fixed the oil pan leak last summer!!!! guess I better get another oil pan gasket!!!

You guys are providing great information. I don't mind doing these projects when I know what I am getting into ahead of time. That bolt would have annoyed me, but now at least I know ahead of time I have to pull the oil pan again. And put that gasket on again! Good thing the oil pan is not a big deal.

Thank you again.

Wayne