Front Axle Cost...

[Lazarus]

Hello everyone, General question about front axle rebuild. I would like to hear some quick cost estimates on (parts only for total) front axle rebuild for my 1961 WM300 with no drums wheels or tires. Just a rebuilt axle...thks gc

[texcwa]

You can get the part prices from Vintage Powerwagons. I just rebuilt both on my 49 PW and the biggest cost was the ring and pinion gear with bearings for my front axle which cost around $1100.00 plus the cost for gaskets and oil seal another $60.00 or so.

Spent around $2500.00 for all the other parts, hub seals, bearings, races, bushings, brakes, brake cylinders, master cylinder, brake lines, ect. Still need to have drums turned, and new tires (will this ever end).

[Lazarus]

O' yes

Thanks for your response, texcwa! money well spent on this forum (thats a good thing.) Don't want to waste the parts mans time when someone like yourself just overhauled one and knows. Hoping for an end! but I need to start first...O' yes any special tools needed

[texcwa]

Special tools!!! Just need to be creative. The outer oil seal is a B.... to get out, the first one I had to use my cut off wheel and cut out center of seal to help relieve some of the stiffness of the seal that I was finally able to pry out. The second one (after seeing how the seal was constructed and how the outer bearing was seated) I was able to push it out by using a large socket that a 1 1/4 wood dow fit into then tapping (pounding) the bearing into the oil seal finally forcing it out.

That was the easy part, then you have to remove the outer bearing nut (really is a nut that holds the double ended race in place) I had to take a 1/8" steel plate, cut it to fit into nut with the 4 tabs (you will see what I mean after getting the oil seal out) that engage into the bearing nut, and weld a 3/4" nut onto center of the fabricated plat. Then the impact wrench will do the rest.

Piece of advice, don,t make the same mistake I made (even though I took over 600 pictures during the dissasembly of the truck) by re-installing the outer bearing, retaining nut and oil seal just to find out you forgot to re-install the washer that goes between the bearing and yoke or you will be removing the oil seals again, needed to take a beer break after that one.

[gmharris]

Just wondering why you need to rebuild the axle. If you have a major mechanical problem other than the usual seals, etc., it may be best just to get another complete axle. A used complete axle can often be had for around $200. The differentials in these things last a long time unless they have been abused somehow.

[Lazarus]

$200. I hope! freight to NM? Yes in the (USA)! Lol

gmharris, thank you and texcwa thanks again for a great in depth overview, which to me is priceless...
gmharris as for the word of the wise. I now have(best) and worst case scenario...The truck had been sitting way to long many years. Good thing it was a hot dry climate. My thinking is, major problem. I would buy all the parts for rebuild and have them on hand and while there available. Fixing to find out the things you just mentioned so I can go one way or the other. I'll be checking bearings real close more than likely just replace them... ...hopeful to get out as light as I can... thks...gc

[Jerry Henry]

I have resurrected at least 4 Power Wagons, 3 of them having spent 10-20 years sitting on a ranch, out in the open, and unused for all that time. I pulled the drain plugs on differentials, trans., trans. case, hubs, and let it all drain for several days. The I replaced the oil with the right new stuff and drove them. I've never had a problem other than replacing an outer bearing or a seal. JH

[Lazarus]

Luck

Hi Jerry, that's great news on your end, hopefully some of that will run off on this PW. Was told they parked it because of an engine problem and its defiantly ceased up. Sounds like it will be running before we know it...With some of the same luck you guys have had with them...thks gc

[Jerry Henry]

Is the engine still in the truck? If so, you might be able to free it yourself. Pull the spark plugs, pour some Marvel Mystery oil or some auto trans fluid in each hole, repeat every few days. After a couple of weeks try prying against the ring gear with a bar, levering against the bell housing to see if you can move it a little. Take it slow. I have done this with three engines and got them to move, and then started them with a little gas in the carb and a battery.

[Lazarus]

Cause if 251 starts!

I must be doing something right! that's what I just did with the 318 out of the 66. Runs like a champ. Right now thinking of the 318, Np435, disc brakes, and if that's the way I go then a (gear change). Another 10 days before I try the 251 and make my final decision.. You see, it's a ten mile drive on hi-way to town and ten back. When driven would like it to drive it with ease 50/60 MPH. However! if 251 starts. Staying original will trump everything, I'm hoping! Cause it's going to get parts needed and paint anyway... thks gc

[Lazarus]

Is 4.89 bad idea?

Staying original is the general direction now that the 251 L Head shows promise... Still thinking of Disc brakes, power steering though, plus the 4.89 gears and bigger tires... Is 4.89 bad idea?

[Desoto61]

I don't have any personal experience but from what I've read here and on Joe's forum your best picking one or the other (bigger tires or the gear change), the L-head doesn't have the grunt to do both.

And a tire change is a LOT cheaper than new gears (if installing new bearings and seals at the same time).

[Lazarus]

That's what I've read as well

That's my understanding as well, so thanks for the word and quick response...gc

[Lazarus]

MoparNorm Said!

The perfect answer is to install a diesel and an overdrive transmission, the low cost answer is to install an overdrive 5 speed transmission and leave everything else alone, option two would be to install a 5 speed over drive with a granny gear first, such as a NV4500 and raise the differential ratios, that would give you higher road gears and a low off-road gear...(I say, A matter of money! 'eeny, meenie, miny, mo') thank you MoparNorm...

[Desoto61]

The perfect answer is to install a diesel and an overdrive transmission, the low cost answer is to install an overdrive 5 speed transmission and leave everything else alone, option two would be to install a 5 speed over drive with a granny gear first, such as a NV4500 and raise the differential ratios, that would give you higher road gears and a low off-road gear...(I say, A matter of money! 'eeny, meenie, miny, mo') thank you MoparNorm...

A V8 5-speed setup is also a good option. We all tend to love the diesel route since it fits the character of the truck, but a V8 is far cheaper to install and run, easier to swap, more versatile, and will get you the power and gearing to drive either or both mods as you choose.