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Exhaust Manifold Question

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  • #16
    I believe you could certainly acquire those parts and put them on this engine.
    Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


    Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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    • #17
      Vintage Power Wagon sells the brass washers and nuts.

      I'd wait until I had the old manifold off and compare it to the new one to see if you can add the heat riser. I don't think it's a big deal, but you will need to take a look first to see if you can do the swap. If you are lucky, they are the same casting.

      A couple places sell a kit to replace the flapper valve. They are often eaten away. VPW and a place called Midwest Military (.net) sell the kits. The military M37 engine and drive train have a lot of common parts.

      I'm guessing you got a manifold from an industrial engine. If you lived somewhere with moderate temperatures, I'd say skip the heat riser. In Vermont, you just might be glad you have it

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      • #18
        Old thread...but

        If a heat riser is stuck in the winter position, how much does it really matter?
        I've always had mine in the Summer position and never though to switch it

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        • #19
          If it's stuck in the winter position it will overheat your carburetor and may cause vapor lock.
          Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


          Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Gordon Maney View Post
            If it's stuck in the winter position it will overheat your carburetor and may cause vapor lock.
            Thanks for the quick answer!

            Mine appears to be stuck in the middle position, I attempted to move it and the nut broke off...of course.

            From what I've heard in the middle position is Ok, and common?

            I don't have a TON of $$$$$ to be throwing at this truck...I just want something that runs well

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