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**Gordon Maney** · 08-02-2013, 07:06 AM

You mean a loose piece? ....rolling around in there?

**Resto Ray** · 08-02-2013, 08:11 PM

Yes, that is correct. I estimate he size of the piece to be about a .250 in size.

**Gordon Maney** · 08-02-2013, 09:01 PM

I can't say that this is the best way to look at it, but I suspect most shops would just leave it in there and not even tell you.

I gather it's behind one of those open stud goals we see in the photo? To try to access it through a coolant hole in the block deck you would have to take the head off. Given where you are located there, I don't believe there is any core plug nearby you could pull out to work through that whole.

Gravity will take it downward and it will probably sit somewhere that it becomes caught, if it is not caught immediately. The big question is how much work do you want to go to to retrieve this piece?

I can't guarantee anything of course, but there seems to be no real risk that this piece will cause you a problem. It's a far stretch to imagine that it would get as far as the water pump or thermostat. I think if it was me I would leave it. Others may comment.

**Resto Ray** · 08-04-2013, 05:59 PM

Thanks Gordon. My fear was the thermostat and/or water pump getting damaged. Like you mentioned it will probably remain at the bottom as it makes its ways and gets lodged.

I learnt a valuable lesson that these bolt holes are right through. Which brings me to my second question: when I instal the new studs should I be using a specialized thread sealant for this application?

**Gordon Maney** · 08-04-2013, 06:29 PM

Use a good grade of non-hardening gasket sealer.

**wayneh** · 08-09-2013, 05:15 AM

Ray:

If I may suggest, USE HIGH TEMPERATURE Thread sealant when you re-install those studs. I knew better than the manual of course, and the center one you are having trouble with leaked after a few months... Fortunately, I'm an ace at pulling the manifold now, but it requires draining the coolant each time....

Good luck on that bolt. I can't imagine the water is rushing around that much in the block to cause it to move much. I can never see it going into the top of the water pump though, and that I think is where the water inlet is. It exits of course at your water distribution tube. Which I sure looks worse than your block...

Wayne

**53Crusher** · 08-09-2013, 06:49 AM

Thread Sealant

Ray-

I wholeheartedly agree with Wayne. I tried two other similar sealants on my head studs and ended up with leaks. After becoming an expert on head removal, I finally tried the high temp thread sealant and haven't seen a drop of coolant since!

Tim

**Gordon Maney** · 08-09-2013, 08:47 AM

Good catch, men!

**Resto Ray** · 08-09-2013, 11:34 PM

Thank you gentlemen! High temp sealant it will be. Was there a particular brand of thread sealant you found worked best.."Locktite"? The block will be going in to a local machinest for an overhaul in September. I'm deciding on whether to go for a dual carb option or not. I assume it would be best to double up on the exh manifold as well at this point? Heck, maybe even an aluminum head:)I just wonder whether it's really worth the extra $$$.

My engine block is identified as 58. The cylinder head doesn't have the Dodge logo. Was this common or were they all marked with the Dodge Brothers logo?

**53Crusher** · 08-10-2013, 07:54 AM

High Temp Thread Sealant

I've had good luck with the Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant

http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...t-59235-detail

Tim

**wayneh** · 08-10-2013, 01:38 PM

I used the permatex last time also. It was available at Advance auto parts. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "double up" on the exhaust manifold. The gaskets are available all over. VPW also sells a stud kit which also includes the right nuts and special washers that you are supposed to use.

I would not go with dual carbs. The truck will still not go 60 MPH... And if it did, I'd be afraid you could not stop it!

Wayne

**Doc Dave** · 08-10-2013, 03:18 PM

Hopefully Tim will reply with input.
I got to drive his truck with dual carbs and split exhaust headers at the Iowa Rally last year, and I must say it was considerably more "peppy" than a 230. Maybe more like a 265 c.i. engine?
Like you say, Wayne, I think it would be hard pressed to do 60, and I agree about stopping and handling at that speed. However, Tim also knows how helpful the vacuum brake booster is that I have on mine when he drove it out there! ;)

**Resto Ray** · 08-11-2013, 05:46 PM

Thanks Wayne. What I meant was installing two separate headers. I'm leaning towards only doing a double intake to minimize fab time. Help it breath a little better. I just want to make sure it's worth the investment.

I won't be doing any other modern upgrades, it's going to be stock as it came. So maybe doing the dual carb won't have its benefit without doing the others. Perhaps as you said Doc, Tim can provide some insight.

If I understand correctly the 1958 230 flathead made the greatest power from it's predecessors?

**53Crusher** · 08-11-2013, 08:03 PM

Headers

I have really been enjoying my engine! Aluminum head from Edgy speed shop, dual carbs, headers, HEI ignition and mild cam grind. Every mechanical component in the truck has now been rebuilt. Here is an earlier thread with links to a video on how the engine looks.
http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...hlight=headers
As Doc Dave indicated, he sold me on the benefits of the Midland Brake Booster, and that is now a part of my truck as well. It's a very peppy engine that runs well ( 60 mph top speed on the flat with a tailwind) and also stops well!

To answer your question directly, I have been very pleased with this header set up from Langdon Stovebolt. Here is a link to that as well.

http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog...417&id=1396124

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230 Engine exhaust manifold stud

230 Engine exhaust manifold stud

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