Rewire 1952 6 volt

[Scottwagon]

So my wires are pretty well shot and all original. I want to stay 6 volt, but I want to put fuse box in the mix.

Has anyone done this?
Does anyone have a wire diagram so I don't have to begin from scratch?
Is there any reason I should not do this?
Anything I should do at the same time?

Already Planning on firewall heat and sound shield and windshield regulator

Thanks

Scott

[CSCameron]

Can't help, but I want to do the same with a fuse box in my 55 so I'll be watching for answers. I am planning on switching to 12v though, but I'll keep the gauge of the wire 6v just in case the next owner wants to go back.

[Tom Petroff]

A quick search of the forum will provide most answers.
TGP

[Scottwagon]

Tom,

Perhaps I am search impaired...any search terms or locations you would recommend ?

[Tom Petroff]

Tom,

Perhaps I am search impaired...any search terms or locations you would recommend ?

Wiring
wiring diagram
wire harness

What I found here
http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/main/b1_wiring.jpg

Same as yours,I would add turn signal wires,
Heater,spot light, etc. Whatever you think you might want.
Or spend $$$ for a custom made harness.
TGP

[Tim Guinn]

I rewired mine, used a fuse block purchased from a local auto parts store. Put relays in for the heavy load items (lights and horns). Really no advantage in staying 6 volt, I reused the original starter,covertedit to 12v neg ground at the same time.

[Scottwagon]

What about all lights, gauges, etc on 12 volt conversion...plus alternator?

I rewired mine, used a fuse block purchased from a local auto parts store. Put relays in for the heavy load items (lights and horns). Really no advantage in staying 6 volt, I reused the original starter,covertedit to 12v neg ground at the same time.

[Tim Guinn]

The lights I used were halogen headlights for better visibility, used led bulbs for the taillights as the taillights are small and hard to see. The gas gauge is original , just placed a resistor to drop the voltage, and I converted the ammeter to a voltmeter by using the original ammeter face and retrofitting a 12v voltmeter so you don't have to wire the entire load thru the ammeter. A GM 1 wire alternator is so easy to use and wire up, and pretty cheap too! Tim

[53Crusher]

Wiring Diagram

Scott-

Here is a link to an earlier thread where I posted a wiring diagram for my 53. Like many others, I converted to 12V with alternator and used this diagram as a map to completely re-wire my truck. I installed a relay box in the engine compartment to handle the heavy loads ( lights, Fuel pump, Heater, distributor etc..) and tasked one relay circuit to a fuse panel in the cab. Had to replace the 6V bulbs with equivalent 12V and the only trick was to drop the voltage with a resistor to the fuel gauge which can only run on 6v. Hope this is helpful.

http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...ghlight=wiring

Tim

[gmharris]

If you're keeping the truck mostly original, there is no need to upgrade to 12 volts. The original system worked fine for 60 plus years and will continue to do so if it is put in good order.

You will probably find that the original copper conductors are still in good shape, but the insulation on the exposed wires will be deteriorated. It's some work, of course, but most of the exposed wiring can be saved by using shrink tubing.

I recommend taking off the driver's side fender so you can easily access and assess the wiring for repair.

The original electrical circuit probably contained one glass fuse. If you are going to use the truck as it was originally meant to be used, the one fuse is adequate. If you plan to do a lot of night driving (please don't) or add accessories, then the system will need upgrading.

First, be realistic about what you are going to do with the truck. Do you plan on using it as your everyday driver (good luck with that) or will it be a weekend toy?

You can often find these trucks with very low mileage. The reason for that is they were never intended for long-distance driving and are uncomfortable to drive even when compared to a car of the same vintage.

Also, if your gas gauge is still working, be sure to protect it from 12 volt current like when you try to jump start it from a 12 volt battery.

[Jerry Henry]

Scott. You don't say where you live. I would consider that a factor in keeping the truck 6v or converting to 12v. I live in the northern part of Idaho, and in the very cold winters, 12v is nice. I changed all the lights, bought 12volt gauge conversion set on ebay, used a "Runtz" resistor on the heater motor, switched the wiper motor to 12v. The horn and starter will work just fine without modifying. Finally, it's much easier to help or get help starting with jumper cables if your truck is 12 v. So, if you are in a cold winter part of the country, you might want to consider all of this. JH

[Scottwagon]

I live in North Carolina, so severe cold isn't an issue. The truck is pretty much all original and I feel like keeping that alive. Although power steering may be in its future

Scott. You don't say where you live. I would consider that a factor in keeping the truck 6v or converting to 12v. I live in the northern part of Idaho, and in the very cold winters, 12v is nice. I changed all the lights, bought 12volt gauge conversion set on ebay, used a "Runtz" resistor on the heater motor, switched the wiper motor to 12v. The horn and starter will work just fine without modifying. Finally, it's much easier to help or get help starting with jumper cables if your truck is 12 v. So, if you are in a cold winter part of the country, you might want to consider all of this. JH

[Gordon Maney]

In light of that, I think I'd keep it 6 volt.

[im02crazy]

Wiring Diagrams and more

Please check out our site and follow the links to the re-wiring we did.

This is a wall-sized diagram with our notes and fuse box & inline fuses shown. A much higher res version is available at the link below.

Although this is a 66 WM300, the approach is the same. Hope it is helpful to you. One suggestion, we solder nearly all mechanical connections - gives us about a 40 year working life - which will exceed my working life!!

http://www.flyingtigertransport.com http://www.flyingtigertransport.com


Dave in Baltimore, Maryland US of A