New Bed Wood

[53Crusher]

I am very interested in opinions/suggestions on how to treat new bed wood. Pictured is the new white oak that I am working on. I found a long term test from Mar-K that gave me food for thought.

http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_i.aspx

From this test, it would appear that I should just paint the oak black like the factory did. However, I would REALLY like to have the natural wood grains show. What have you used, and how is it holding up?

[Clint Dixon]

Once you go black, you'll never go back! ;^)

[53Crusher]

Oh Clint..... I left that barn door wide open, and you ran right through it! -)

[Ron in Indiana]

Spar or marine varnish is a waste of time. It's a shame to paint that beautiful oak black so I checked with my Martin Senour rep and used their CC5020 clear coat on the last two beds I did. I sprayed two coats, let them dry a day, sanded with 400 grit and layed down another wet coat of clear. Fantastic results and is supposed to wear as good as on metal. The oak from Mar-K is excellent for red oak. I used one with their wood and one I planed myself from white oak. Although the red oak looks better the white oak is not as susceptable to rot over time. Before applying whatever you decide to use be sure to "break" the sharp edges. You finish will last longer. A few passes with sandpaper will do it and be sure to get plenty on the end grains to seal. Napa sells Martin Senour paint but I'm sure any automotive clear coat will do the same.

[Matthew Ziegler]

linseed oil

I recently did a white oak bed on a 42 ford, after talking with a few friends, I decided to use linseed oil, the idea being that I can easily recoat if need be. I thinned it 50/50 with xylene applied a coat, let it sit on the plank for an hour or so and wiped it off. I repeated this every other day for two weeks. The idea was to get it to soak as far in as possible. The oak looks nice, has a satin gloss to it. I didn't like poly or clear because it just sits on the surface. Just my two cents. that bed looks super is it new?

[CSCameron]

I used to do polyurethane on several boats (teak wood). I would cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits for the first few coats in order for it to soak deep into the wood. Then gradually reduce the MS to full strength poly. Many coats. It would look like a glass table top after a while. Wet sanding between coats with 600 grit. It was really durable too, in a harsh environment. However, it was a lot of work, but looked great when done.

[Doc Dave]

Tim,
These posts are all very good. I would like to see how what Ron did holds up over time.
I used marine spar varnish and it still looks good after 4 years. But, my truck is garaged unless being driven, and I don't haul gravel or dirt in it.
At the time I did my bed I was seriously considering linseed oil, and what Matt did is interesting using the xylene to help it soak in. One thing that is really good about it is that is easy to replenish. As long as you are satisfied with the satin look.

[53Crusher]

Thanks for all the excellent ideas guys! I am still in the test fit phase before paint, so I have some time to decide how to treat the wood. So many choices......

[Doc Dave]

BTW Tim,
My pic shows the center hinge "let-in", and sending unit inspection cover for the 1st and early 2nd series beds.
Did you decide to forego the inspection cover?

[53Crusher]

Thanks for the reminder Doc!
My center hinge is "let in" like yours, but I haven't cut out the fuel sender inspection hole yet. I had better make a note so I don't forget to do it before treating the wood.

Clint has some nice pictures and measurements on his web page that I plan to follow.

[Kwt-B4]

off topic

According to what I heard Ford ,Chevy and Dodge are putting the Swedish wood in bed!

does not change. any idea ?