52 Power wagon restoration/ restomod

[laddy]

Got the old axle pulled and the new dana 60 mocked up.






It's not perfect but it took care of a few problems that I had.







It all has to get torn apart again for new wheel studs and I need to figure out how to get the spindle bearings out(broke 2 pullers so far). The track width is very similar from front to rear and at the stops I believe everything will clear. Shock mounting will be a challenge however. Ill try and get the other side mocked up on Sunday as I got talked into going to the indy supercross tomorrow.

[laddy]

The internal one they are a pain. I finally got them both out. On the first one I took out all the needle bearings and then used a die grinder to cut the race. It worked okay but I nicked the outer surface of the spindle. Doesnt look too deep probably 50 thousands or so.



On the opposite side I cut a scrap piece of 1/4 inch plate into a trapezoid looking thing pounded it in and welded it to the bearing. This worked really well about 5 hits and it was out I think this will be my go too way to remove these from now on.



I'm working on getting the axles all back together. I ordered all new wheel studs they will be here tomorrow so hopefully I can get them in with little fuss get both tires and wheels on and see how it looks with weight on the wheels and tires. Hopefully if will fit out the door.

[laddy]

On to the last few days, I got the wheel studs pressed out after unsuccessfully trying every air hammer and bfh at my disposal.I called the local tire shop and he waned 50 bucks a hub....... I ended up running out to harbor freight last night and picking up the 20 ton press. It pressed out the wheel studs but not without flexing the frame pretty good. Then when they let lose the studs would go shooting across the room with a loud bang, don't think they were coming out without a press. I then sandblasted the hubs and gave them a quick coat of paint before "pressing" in the new wheel studs. I couldn't figure out a way of doing it on the hf press so I ended up just using a ball joint press, probably an easy way and I'm just an idot.



Today I got everything back together and the tires on. I couldn't get the alignment right though after putting in the tie rod. The ball joints are shot but I was hoping to get it close before ordering a 1 piece unit with the standard ends. This is it threaded all the way in and tightened up, you can still see the tilt in the wheel.



In the steering department I ordered all of the ends and the crossover steering bracket yesterday. the IFS box I ordered was "obviously damaged" in shipping this is coming from usps so lord knows what happened. Dropped off the back of a semi and run over a few times at the least. Wonder how long it will take to get my money back. It will work out though I am now planning on using a fj60 or 80 box.

[laddy]

Got some stuff ordered and done this weekend but seemed largely disappointing. Mainly re-fixing things and reorganizing everything. I got some dom 1.5 x .25 wall ordered for the trackbar and draglink. I found it online for cheaper than I could get it locally so saved a few bucks at the expense of a few days delay. I got the ifs steering box in surprisingly undamaged. I reversed the arm and set is where I think its going to go to give me a real rough idea.



I think I am going to have to redo the engine mount but that's not the end of the world. I called around on Thursday to a few places and located a few fj80 boxes just waiting on shipping quotes from 2 of them. Hopefully I will have one by the end of the week. If anyone is looking for an ifs box I'll make you a sweat heart deal.



I knew that the manifold was going to have to be changed in order for the down pipe to clear the fire wall. A 6bt manifold with the two outside ports cut off seems to be the most cost effective and easy to come by so that's what I did.



Disregard the grill I was preheating thinking it was cast iron. There was room between the cab and manifold when I had the mock up mounts in. However when I pulled the old manifold off I found this.... and because it moved a bit i was not able to fit the manifold without cutting it again. It should fit now i just have to grind down the welds.



Previous

[laddy]

Picked up some 1/4 plate to plate the frame from local goodwill for steel. 8inx8ft piece for 14 bucks, much better than can be had anywhere else around here. I was looking for 3/8 to half but all he had in that thickness was 4*8 plates and I really didn't feel like dealing with that kind of weight, they were also buried behind a pile of aluminum.



Got the 'new' manifold mounted it hits the oil filter though so I ordered one from the 6bt dodge application that mounts the filter vertically instead of horizontally. That should clear that up.



When I pulled the old filter housing off I found a surprise, looks like whoever was servicing the engine before didn't like to flush the coolant. I didn't see any rust when I pulled the water pump however anyone have any tricks for getting the scale out besides flushing the system till it comes out clean?



Got the brakes mounted up where I wanted them fine tuned it and everything. Drilled out the holes for the masters and then realized that they the current (upper) location was going to put the clutch right behind where the rod/struts mount between the radiator shell and the cab. I moved it down to where it would fit and re-drilled the holes. When I was transferring the holes somehow my template or the drill bit shifted. The mounted wholes ended up being off by an 1/8 inch or so, I called it a night after that.

The steering box should be here sometime this week I never did end up getting a tracking number but the box is coming out of Oregon so I'm hoping its not a rusted pile like everything I've been working on from the east coast. I also ordered all the hydro assist stuff hoping to have it moving under its own power by the end of the month but that could very well be net month by the way things have been going lately.

[laddy]

Todays "project" was taking the turbo apart in order to clock it. I was a bit tenetive on the first go around. However it had to get clocked to work with the new manifold so I got out the torch and a bigger hammer. I got it apart but hashed the seals in the process. It was not a huge deal as I had a rebulid kit laying around so I'll trow that in and all should be good. Then this happened.





So going to need to replace that I'm looking at this. The one thing I'm not sure about is if I can put in an upgraded cartridge in but it seems as if the one I have is the biggest that have found.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253114338665?rmvSB=true

I also got the filter housing in and sandblasted. Just painted it and should be able to get that thrown in tomorrow then the manifold and "turbo" mounted to make sure everything fits as it should.

[laddy]

Still haven't gotten the turbo nipped in the bud. I got the cartridge 2 weeks ago but they sent me the wrong one I returned it and they are supposed to be sending me the correct one, we will see I have zero confidence in them. In the mean time though I made all new turbo drain and feed lines as the old ones were not going to work. Ended up drilling out the 10an fittings to 5/8 so hopefully there wont be any drain restriction problems. I also put in a filter head from a 6bt, the new manifold put the intake directly into the old filter.



Got the rad installed I'm going to have to end up moving the inter-cooler up 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch so the boots will clear but overall I'm happy with it. I can run either an electric or clutch fan.



I ended up making new engine mounts moved it forward about an inch. It moved my shifter into a better spot, it was hitting the bench in 2nd before. Also gave me extra room by the fire wall before it was really tight probably only a 1/4 or so. Now its a inch at the tightest. I did end up lowering it down a tad so might need to address that but I'm happy enough with it for now.

[laddy]

Progress is being made, slower than I would like but par for the course on this project. I removed the old studs on the passenger side and drilled and tapped for 3/4 10 grade 8 all thread. I just need to grind my garbage tap into a bottoming tap and all should be good on that front. i was dreading doing this knowing i had problems with rust and this axle but they came out easy and didn't snap off, finally something went as planned. Also made and welded on the new narrower leaf spring perch.



The way the frame/inter-cooler/radiator/cowl ended up fitting together if I wanted to keep the inter-cooler i was going to need to notch the frame for the rad. It actually worked out so that the old hose should fit, another welcome surprise this is almost too good to be true.



I got a 10an bung welded into the power steering pump it looks like poo but should be fine. I also drilled out the re-stricter so it should work nicely with the hydro assist. Also mounted the cooler hopefully its big enough but there is plenty of room for a larger one if needed.





The stock inter fender fits pretty well without any trimming. Also got the steering box attached as well as the shaft/ links made. It turns, definitely going to need bigger springs but if that's the biggest hiccup I'll be a happy camper.





Got the exhaust v band welded on. Seems to be enough room to make it with the donut and tube I have so that should work out well just not looking forward to exhaust work. I still don't have the correct darn cartage I ordered a month ago for the turbo. I sent them back the incorrect cartage on my own dime god forbid you pay for your darn mistake. They received it on the 4/25 so I shoot them a message asking the status of the exchange and they send me "delivered 4/18/18". I about blew a gasket, I absolute hate people who are incapable of doing there job, god forbid you send me the correct part or reacquaint yourself with the problem before you "answer" a question. /rant over

[laddy]

https://youtu.be/vD3GSHTag6M

No idea how to imbed

Well that was reliving I didn't end up messing it up too bad. I also ordered 60 valve springs to go with the 4gsk not that I plan to rev that high but its good peace of mind knowing things won't go bang if it over revs. I had a **** of a time getting all of the power steering lines/connections sealed, after spilling about a gallon of atf I thing I've got it.

I got the drive shaft today looks great however it is 11 inches too short. Someone must have reversed the numbers it is supposed to be 65 inches not 56. I'll drop it off tomorrow and get them to fix it. Ordered all of the extraneous parts for the clutch so hopefully that will go in tomorrow evening.

Got the trans cross-member buttoned up. All 1/4 3 inch square tubing that I had laying around and some 1/4 plate.



No idea how to rotate images sorry



In other news I have a lead on a np205 for an nv4500 going to try and run and check it out this weekend. Also got a new turbo cartridge so well see if that one will actually work. Goal is to be moving and stopping by next Thursday as I'm leaving for 10 days on the first.

[laddy]

I got most of the lines made and starting to put fluids back in hoping to have it fired up tomorrow and check for leaks. However i did hear back/get a refund from the gyturbo place on ebay highly discourage doing business with them, they are a clown show. Had to get ebay involved to get my money back. Now the question is do I go to a bigger turbo or keep it the same... decisions decisions.

When i pulled the covers everything looked right as rain but the magnet was covered in silver goo. I was sold it as "recently rebuilt" it turns easy nothing feels "wrong".

[Natejohnson17]

How did you end up mounting the passenger side shock on the Dana 60 front?

[Bruce in BC]

NP205 - any passenger drop NP205 will work, But the input will need to be changed to 29 spline. Working on mine right now - the rear output case backed off - while I am in there I elected to change the rear seal as well. If you are getting a rebuild kit try and get one with the double lipped seals - I had one kit arrive with single lips for everything. I toss rare earth magnets in everything I rebuild - iseems to keep the oil that much cleaner.