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Starter Jaw Bolt Size

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  • Starter Jaw Bolt Size

    Hoping to (finally) get back to seeing if I can break my engine loose. I'm soaking the cylinders with ATF/Acetone, but realized I don't have a socket large enough to get on the starting jaw so I can try to turn it with my breaker bar. Anyone know what size socket I need to pick up? Truck is a '46 with the original 230 in it.

  • #2
    I think it's 1 11/16 but don't quote me.
    Memory is not what it used to be.

    Surely someone will chime in.

    FYI,
    I have had better luck with a stuck engine by removing the flywheel
    Dust cover and using a pry bar deep into the teeth.
    You can go both directions (back and forth) that way.
    Tom
    WDX & Misc. Pics.
    http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
    "47" Dodge WDX WW
    "52" Dodge M-37 WW
    "54" Willys M38A1
    "65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
    "77" Chev. K-30 400T,205,4.56 "No-Spin"
    "84" Chev, K-30 Cummins 6-BTA 400,205,3.73Locker
    "86" Chev, M1028A2 (K30) 6.2,400.205,4.56 Locker
    "99" Dodge Durango "Limited Slip"
    "99" Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4"No-Spin"

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    • #3
      Tom is right, Inch and 11/16". The best way to free a stuck engine is to put the breaker bar or ratchet on the nut your talking about and add a 3'-4' bar on it BUT DO NOT FORCE IT then hang a pail full of sand on it and WALK AWAY! Yes walk away and LEAVE IT ALONE! Keep an eye on it and slowly you will see the pail drop to the ground it may take a week or more but the steady pressure/weight of the pail/sand will free it. It is WAAYY better than trying to force it. It is very satisfying to see the pail slowly setting down.

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      • #4
        Blatantly cut/pasted from http://m37.crwdesigns.com/documents/...s/TM9-8030.pdf
        Page 84, paragraph 85, line three is a good one to remember.

        "..Place transmission in fourth gear, jack up rear wheel, and attempt to turn the engine by turning the rear wheel.."

        Chock the front wheels, and release hand brake, of course.

        However, the bucket method is going to be far more forgiving on sticky parts.

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        • #5
          Thanks to all for the info and tips on alterative methods. I'm always appreciative of finding new ways that require me to work even less!

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          • #6
            Picked up a 1-11/16 socket yesterday. Went out to the garage after work today to get everything situated and discovered that it's too small to fit. Plenty of depth to clear the cradle where the hand crank engages, but it appears the nut is larger than 1-11/16.

            Were multiple sizes used or is there any interchange on the crank pulley that could cause the nut to be larger than 1-11/16? I believe the pulley is original because it appears to match the engine (which is original as per the build card) in wear and appearance, but after all these years, who knows? I'm guessing maybe 1-13/16?

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            • #7
              Hi DC Mine is definitely 1 11/16". It does look kinda beat though, maybe it was impacted off at some point??? I just tried 1 3/4" and it just rattles on the nut. I was going to say that maybe the socket isn't deep enough to clear the dogs but you said you checked that. My engine is a 230.

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              • #8
                Just got my new 1 13/16" socket and it fits like a glove. Looks like they must have used two different sizes interchangeably for some reason? Regardless, I'm gone all weekend so I won't get a chance to see if I can break it loose. Hopefully I can sneak out there before I take off and get the weighted breaker bar setup assembled. If all goes well, maybe I'll come back to a freed-up engine!

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