Can anyone tell me what the brake drum should measure after its been turned? I had one of them turned by a local machine shop that said they knew what they were doing. When i got it i asked what was the inner dimension so I could order the brake pads. I understand they have standard, 0.030 over and 0.060 over brake pads. The machine shop said they don't have a gauge bid enough for these drums. They just turned them. I have no idea if they screwed these up or not and I also don't have a gauge big enough that accurate enough to measure 30 or 60 thousandths. Any help or advise would be much appreciated. Also, does anyone know if Napa sells these brake shoes and if so a part number? Also the spring. this is a 1948.
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Brake Drums & shoes 1948 PW
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Most if not all Auto parts Stores, don't even carry standard shoes anymore.
Some like Napa might be able to get yours relined.
Vintage Power Wagons in IA. carry the shoes and everything else you need.
Also some Military parts vendors will have them as there the same as M37.
TomWDX & Misc. Pics.
http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
"47" Dodge WDX WW
"52" Dodge M-37 WW
"54" Willys M38A1
"65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
"77" Chev. K-30 400T,205,4.56 "No-Spin"
"84" Chev, K-30 Cummins 6-BTA 400,205,3.73Locker
"86" Chev, M1028A2 (K30) 6.2,400.205,4.56 Locker
"99" Dodge Durango "Limited Slip"
"99" Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4"No-Spin"
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I been looking through some of the threads. I had this drum turned without the hub. I am also measuring 14 5/16 across the diameter after machining. I took off my other rear hub which I didnt take to the shop. It measures 14 1/4 but that is the high area, the pads have worn in deeper where they ride. Can I get an oversized shoe for the one I had turned and regular for the others, or oversized all 4 or what? I have no idea what to do now but I need this thing safe before I put my wife in there. Any help would be appreciated.
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4-wheel disc brakes
Originally posted by Mkeller131 View PostSo this rim and really the other one I didn't machine are actually out of spec by a long ways? Any suggestions?
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it is getting harder to find good drums. disk is one option but if you do stay with drum get the shoes arced to fit the drum when you have them relined. makes adjustment much easier and stopping much better. any shop that re lines will arc them for free you just give them the drum measurements or bring drums in and they arc to fit each drum specifically
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Brake service
We have every component on the shelf to bring the original drum system back to brand new except for drums. I've seen where MWM is having some reproduced, how that works out is yet to be seen. I have not personally seen any of the reproduction drums, so I have no opinion. We offer shoe lining service, we can also arc linings to fit the radius of your individual drums. We can shim linings or install thicker lining for use with turned drums. Anytime drums have been turned, arcing will be necessary so the lining makes full length drum contact. We also have disc conversion components on the shelf currently. We have recently traded for several major restoration projects. In order to keep enough disc components to cover our own in house needs, we will soon have to limit the outside sale of kits until which time as we have a chance to build more conversion components. We also have dual line, power boosted systems that work with, and greatly compliment either a drum or disc system. The straight up truth is you will not have a great performing system regardless of whether you are running the original drum system or a new disc system unless you incorporate a power booster. We offer 2 types of booster systems, hydraulic or vacuum. The dual line M/C set up is a huge safety advancement.
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Originally posted by Dutch View PostI love my disc brakes I bought from Charles. Excellent stopping with minimal fuss. One of the best upgrades I did.
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I have held the new drum in my hand, it is a single piece drum, weighing slightly over 20 pounds more than the factory drum.
That being said these drums are fantastic. I do believe also that if you buy these units and bolt them onto your hubs you may or may not have to have them turned just a tad.
The way the new drums have turned out are very impressive, i believe the reason for having to turn them may be due to each hub is slightly different. Todays machinery tolerances may show the new drums being closer to spec than factory.
I have one I can get details and exact specs on if any of you would like to know more1967 W200.aka.Hank
1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie
Life is easier in a lower gear.
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Originally posted by Matthew Welcher PWA View PostI have held the new drum in my hand, it is a single piece drum, weighing slightly over 20 pounds more than the factory drum.
That being said these drums are fantastic. I do believe also that if you buy these units and bolt them onto your hubs you may or may not have to have them turned just a tad.
The way the new drums have turned out are very impressive, i believe the reason for having to turn them may be due to each hub is slightly different. Todays machinery tolerances may show the new drums being closer to spec than factory.
I have one I can get details and exact specs on if any of you would like to know more
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Originally posted by Matthew Welcher PWA View PostI have held the new drum in my hand, it is a single piece drum, weighing slightly over 20 pounds more than the factory drum.
That being said these drums are fantastic. I do believe also that if you buy these units and bolt them onto your hubs you may or may not have to have them turned just a tad.
The way the new drums have turned out are very impressive, i believe the reason for having to turn them may be due to each hub is slightly different. Todays machinery tolerances may show the new drums being closer to spec than factory.
I have one I can get details and exact specs on if any of you would like to know more
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