Installing Cab/Radiator Cowl Hood Lace

[texcwa]

Wanting to install my new Cab/Radiator Hood Lace. Came with both Split Rivets and Drive Nails. I assume the Split Rivets go into Radiator and can drill the new holes to size but what is the proper dia drill for the drive nails so that they hold in? Again assuming the Drive nails are on Cab side correct?

Thanks

[53Crusher]

split rivets

You got it! Split rivets on the radiator ( there is a tool for them if you don't have it) and drive nails on the cab side. I used a very tiny drill bit to make a pilot hole for the nail. Much smaller diameter than the nail.

I am OCD, so I also put a dab of weather sealant below the cowl lace on the cab where my pilot hole was, and on top of the nail after installation. Didn't want water to get a chance to drip inside.... Might have been overkill.

[texcwa]

Thanks 53Crusher, I do not have the split rivet tool (just your standard rivet gun) but looks like I can just spread from below. Also good idea on a small bed of sealant at cab at drive nails.

I do have the manual and the wiring diagram is also on the VPW website. What would be very helpful would be a photo (or rough drawing diagram) of front (engine side) of firewall with notes identifying where each of the wires/accessories come through it such as "wire harness, speed meter cable, oil/water temp geage's, ect."

Finally, I am assuming that even though I am going with the 12v conversion, I should wire per shop manual (6v) then use methods described in 12v conversion kit?

Thanks again.

[53Crusher]

Misc.

I will do my best to give you a few answers :-)
First- I tried doing the split rivets manually and then with the tool. For me, the tool made the job simple and each rivet is nicely arched just like the factory did. One place to get the tool is https://dcmclassics.com/tools-and-ac...ping-tool.html

I converted my truck from 6V to 12V about 6 years ago and have practically forgotten my first name since then. The VPW kit was very good and worked well. If I recall, they send a new wiring diagram that deletes the generator and shows alternator. Would suggest you follow this instead of the original 6V diagram. If you want to read up on the idea, do some searches on one wire 10si alternator wiring. I expanded on the kit and wired in a small red led light in my dash (I had an extra hole) that glows red until alternator starts charging. If it ever quit charging, the idiot light will come on. It's not a big deal, but don't forget that you will be going from 6V POSITIVE ground to 12V NEGATIVE ground. You will want to change ALL of your 6V bulbs to 12V versions. DO NOT turn power on to your fuel gauge without using the included resistor. Our fuel gauges are 6V and have to stay that way to register properly. 12V will blow the gauge. Hopefully you won't have the same problem, but the included diode between the alternator and coil was installed backwards. Engine would start, but never stop. After lots of head scratching, soldered the diode in the other way and all was well. If you haven't changed your coil, it will also want 6V by way of a ballast resistor that can be mounted on the firewall. Our starters remain 6V but actually love 12V and spin faster to help start.

My truck is far from factory in terms of wiring so I am not sure how much help I can be. Will give you a few suggestions that worked for me. Consider buying a 7 wire junction box like this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PHI15961 and mount it on one of your rear cross members. You can attach standard 7 wire duraflex 6-12 ga wires with 1-10 gauge wire (ground) all nicely wrapped and run it along your left frame to the cab. In my picture you can barely see it in the lower right corner popping into the cab. This gives you a very clean way to run your fuel sender, brake lights, rear running lights, left turn, right turn and in my case an electric fuel pump. the 10ga wire can be attached to the frame for common ground. in the cab, you can use a 7 wire junction post which will make your connections clean and add another ground to the cab.

I also bought a 5 circuit relay box that has 5- 30 amp circuits and 5- 15 amp circuits. Personally, I didn't like all of the trucks power going through the amp gauge so this was my solution. My fuel pump, Electric Vacuum pump (for my brake booster), coil, fog/Headlights and Electric chokes/Cab Heater are all on switched relay circuits. The other 5 -15 amp circuits can run minor things in the cab. The cable on the right goes to the starter and a ground. The three cables on the left go to the trigger (key switch), five 30 amp devices and five 15 amp devices. In the picture, you can also see a ground wire from the block to the cab. I have another from the alternator to the block, and in the rear by the junction box one from the box to the frame. You can NOT have enough grounds!

Can't emphasize enough the need for grounds. Originally you will notice that there are only positive wires to lights etc. It makes life MUCH better if you add an intentional ground wire especially with new paint. So many things didn't work on my truck until I made sure they were grounded.

If I have confused the issue for you, I am sorry. My electrical still needs to be done a third time. Not sure what you have, but I added HEI ignition, electric chokes, Halogen headlights, Fog-lights etc. I was able to slap it together last Spring to make the VPW rally in Iowa. Now I have to make it "Look Good".

Will help you in any way I can, but others may be of better assistance. On a completely unrelated note, I would be interested in how you set up your throttle linkage to your two carbs, The pictures I saw intrigue me. My truck has a vintage Edmunds aluminum intake with two carbs but I took a completely different route for linkage. Definitely like what I see with yours.

[53Crusher]

Forgot

Hit post too quickly. Your speedometer cable will stay inside the cab and will run outside below your heater on the passenger side floor pan. If you don't have it installed on your transmission that might be a problem if I recollect. Others can pipe in, but I think it's a bugger to connect after the fact.

Your Oil and Water temp will be manual not electrical and if you want, I can try to take a pic of where mine are.

[texcwa]

53 Crusher, Thanks for all the information. Here is what I am working with:
New complete wiring harness & the 12v conversion kit from VPW. The kit came with the 12v Alternator, all 12v lights and the fuel gauge resister. I do have the manual and will be following the install instructions for both the harness and conversion kit. Although my truck is not road ready, I do have the motor running (after complete rebuild including the VPW performance cam and duel carb set-up) and start it up every now and then just too hear it. I made a YouTube video the day I got it running you can see it at: 1949 B1 PW Comes to Life

The info on both the 7 wire junction box and the 5 circuit box was very helpful and does seem to make both a clean connection between interior and exterior harness's. I am not too worried about the harness connections but need to do more homework on where and when to use relays or other specific electrical parts that did not come with the harness kit (the truck was stripped of all wiring when I got it so I have no benchmark to work with)

For the split rivets, I just used a flat head screw driver and channel locks so although I do not have the "arched" look at bottom, they are tight and worked out well.

As for my carb linkage, the linkage that VPW gave with the kit just would not work so I had to fabricate my own. I have included a few pics of what I did.

I started by fabricating a flat plate that is attached to two of the unused threaded holes of the intake manifold (see pic 1). I then welded a small channel stand off that the vertical linkage is attached to (i installed a 1/4" bolt from back of plate, tack welding the bolt head through the stand-off as my pivot pin). I made a small flat angled piece that acts like a hinge for the linkage and return springs. (see pics 2 & 3). I actually have two return springs (one inside of the other) so if one were to break I would still have a secondary one. If I recall, all the sheet metal was from .100" steel which gave me a firm platform.

I got some duel carb linkage parts that have a rotating eyelets for the horizontal tube rail (made from steel fuel line tubing) that the vertical linkage and carb linkage attaches too.

Although my description may be difficult to understand, hopefully the photos will ( I do have many more if entrusted). This set-up seems to work very well.

[texcwa]

53 Crusher, while going through the hundreds of photos I took during the disassembly and reassembly, I found a couple of more photos of when I was fabricating the carb linkage.

[53Crusher]

throttle linkage

Thank you for sharing! Tremendously nice work!