Guys,
On my 1950 FFPW rebuild we are starting to assemble the bed. Once we have everything where we want it, it'll come back apart and the cab will come off for painting. Then I'll start getting the wood treated in prep for putting it all back together. I know this question has come up and I've read some of the posts.........but, can I get some input on bed finishes for a truck that isn't going to be a show truck or perfect, but also isn't going to be stored outside. I don't really like the thick varnish type finish. From one of the earlier threads pasted below I'm thinking of going with some type of oil finish.
Why wouldn't one of the deck finishes work well? Like this stuff called Ready Seal we use in North Texas. www.readyseal.com. Ready Seal is a commercial grade oil based, semi-transparent sealer and stain for exterior wood. It is a unique blend of resin, finely ground transoxide pigments, oil and algaecide that penetrates deeply into wood to protect and preserve it from the elements.
Thanks for your help.
Scott
"Hi Gordon,
The type of finish depends on the intended use. A marine spar varnish, with ultraviolet inhibitors will look great and be durable, but will require at least annual maintainance to keep it up. Oak turns black when it gets weather on unprotected surfaces, so all those scrapes and abrasions need to be repaired immediately. Not very practical.
For a working truck I would reccomend an oil finish. A mix of turpentine, boiled linseed oil and japan drier makes a rugged finish. Its easy to apply and easy to maintain, but wont give that yacht-like appearance that varnish will.
Another point to consider is the reaction of the iron and the white oak. Oak is loaded with tannic acid, which when in contact with iron will react and cause the oak to turn black. I would reccomend stainless steel bed strips and fasteners to avoid this.
No matter what the finish of choice is, the wood should be coated on ALL surfaces, top, bottom, edges and most importantly the ends. As for the species, red and white oak are structurally identical but the difference is in the little pores you see in the end grain. In red oak, the pores are like straws right thru the wood but the white oaks pores are like bamboo, with dividers stopping them up.
The red oak is more suseptable to rot because rot spores are able to travel up the pores and do their dirty work but are blocked by the closed pores of the white oak.
OK everyone, the lecture is over, time to wake up, yawn and stretch!
Thanks, Tim"
On my 1950 FFPW rebuild we are starting to assemble the bed. Once we have everything where we want it, it'll come back apart and the cab will come off for painting. Then I'll start getting the wood treated in prep for putting it all back together. I know this question has come up and I've read some of the posts.........but, can I get some input on bed finishes for a truck that isn't going to be a show truck or perfect, but also isn't going to be stored outside. I don't really like the thick varnish type finish. From one of the earlier threads pasted below I'm thinking of going with some type of oil finish.
Why wouldn't one of the deck finishes work well? Like this stuff called Ready Seal we use in North Texas. www.readyseal.com. Ready Seal is a commercial grade oil based, semi-transparent sealer and stain for exterior wood. It is a unique blend of resin, finely ground transoxide pigments, oil and algaecide that penetrates deeply into wood to protect and preserve it from the elements.
Thanks for your help.
Scott
"Hi Gordon,
The type of finish depends on the intended use. A marine spar varnish, with ultraviolet inhibitors will look great and be durable, but will require at least annual maintainance to keep it up. Oak turns black when it gets weather on unprotected surfaces, so all those scrapes and abrasions need to be repaired immediately. Not very practical.
For a working truck I would reccomend an oil finish. A mix of turpentine, boiled linseed oil and japan drier makes a rugged finish. Its easy to apply and easy to maintain, but wont give that yacht-like appearance that varnish will.
Another point to consider is the reaction of the iron and the white oak. Oak is loaded with tannic acid, which when in contact with iron will react and cause the oak to turn black. I would reccomend stainless steel bed strips and fasteners to avoid this.
No matter what the finish of choice is, the wood should be coated on ALL surfaces, top, bottom, edges and most importantly the ends. As for the species, red and white oak are structurally identical but the difference is in the little pores you see in the end grain. In red oak, the pores are like straws right thru the wood but the white oaks pores are like bamboo, with dividers stopping them up.
The red oak is more suseptable to rot because rot spores are able to travel up the pores and do their dirty work but are blocked by the closed pores of the white oak.
OK everyone, the lecture is over, time to wake up, yawn and stretch!
Thanks, Tim"
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