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Issue With Clutch - Need Help

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  • Issue With Clutch - Need Help

    Background - When I first got my truck running (after full restoration) everything ran great, only drove a couple laps around neighborhood. The second time I drove it (a few months later) I got stuck where I could not disengage clutch with pedal (pushed in clutch but gears would just grind, not disengaged). Made some adjustments to pedal play (not much) then the truck sat while I worked on other things with the body, wiring, ect. Decided today to give the truck a drive (finished body, interior, wiring, glass, ect,) but found that I still have the issue with not being able to disengage clutch plate and can not get it into any gears. Here is what I have observed and looking for some advice.

    Pulled floor pan. Noticed that when I push on pedal it goes about 1/2-2/3 down then makes a knock/click sound.

    Sometimes it is difficult to fully depress pedal, pedal stops about 2/3 way down.

    Some play at clutch fork to flange (see 1st Photo) but did replace bushings when restoration was done.

    Approx 1" travel before contact (see 2nd Photo)

    Marked a line to show how much travel is on clutch fork (see last 2 photos "3rd Photo is clutch depressed showing rotation, 4th Photo is at rest" with tape and line), not sure if this is appropriate movement.

    After 1st time I had this problem I spoke with Matt and he mentioned the "Key Ways", its been several years since I rebuilt the truck and not sure what parts of the clutch assembly have/require a Key Way? The manual shows nothing!!

    Any ideas to start with? want to try/inspect all I can before the headache of dropping trans/pto.

    Any comments or questions would be greatly appreciated.

    IMAG0590.jpgIMAG0593.jpgIMAG0600.jpgIMAG0598.jpg

  • #2
    Hello Tex, Pull the lower inspection cover off and see if you can borrow another person to push the clutch pedal while to watch what the components are doing and how they are moving. If you come off the clutch fork itself, the part that the adjustment yoke itself attaches to has a woodruff key that keeps it in position on the fork. In the picture there is a gold pinch bolt holding it onto the fork. It sounds as if you have way to much free play in the clutch pedal for some reason.
    The other positions for the keys are the second lever at the rear of the adjuster that fits on the shaft that goes through the clutch pedal. The final key is in the clutch pedal itself.

    Check as you are pushing the clutch in that all these parts are moving as they should, as you push the clutch pedal that shaft should be rotating with the pedal and pushing both levers and rotating the clutch fork, If one of those keys sheared and any of the components have half turned and caught on a broken key then the position could be off on everything and it will never adjust quite right.

    Feel free to give a yell anytime.
    1967 W200.aka.Hank
    1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
    2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie

    Life is easier in a lower gear.

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    • #3
      Fixed!! wanted to post what was causing the problem in case others run into this issue. Thanks to Matt Welcher "once again" I removed the pan under bellhousing to inspect the clutch fork, release bearing and spring. What was found was that the release bearing had rotated out of position and binding on the pressure plate when the clutch pedal was pushed in. The small return spring was in place and not broken but there was NO pressure from the fork to the bering (even with all play taken out at the pedal adjustment rod.

      Per Matts recommendation, I applied more pressure on the adjustment rod while inspecting the fork to bering to insure contact which then held the bearing from rotating. So even though you adjust the pedal rod "as described in the manual", it is necessary to remove bottom bellhousing pan and verify that you have the proper adjustment.

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