I keep hearing guys talk about how rough the ride is and the possibility of removing a leaf or two from the springs. I haven't driven a Power Wagon in 32 years and I don't recall the ride being unreasonably rough but then my bones were more tolerant back then. I'm working on a '47 WDX which had a gin pole on the front, at one time, and a rack on the side for carrying drill rod or rebar or something. Anyway, the rear has a 14 leaf spring pack plus an aftermarket overload setup and the front has a fifteen leaf spring! The front one also has a sectioned leaf in it. Don't know what that's about? Would I benefit from replacing these with stock springs or are they so stiff that it won't matter anyway?
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The sectioned leaf in the front pack is stock for the WDX. I think the single most effective upgrade you can do for ride and handling is to go with radial tires.1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
1954 Ford 860 tractor
1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS
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I was afraid you were going to ask that. Clint Dixon explained it to me once and the best I can recall it was to aid in flexibility of the pack.
I have put in a call to Clint to clarify and if his answer is different from what I've said I will let you know.
cd1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
1954 Ford 860 tractor
1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS
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No matter what a person does these will be stiff.
you could put less springs in the front but it wont make a lot of difference in my opinion.
but to lower the spring count in the front i believe you would want to do the same to the rear so the truck wont have the California rake, so to speak.
I do not actually think they ride all that terrible.
good tires, shocks and suspension parts, pins and bushings greased and in good condition make a big difference as well.
all things considered it is and always will be a 70 year old one ton four wheel drive truck.
Part of the allure to the Power Wagon itself is the rugged toughness to it.
they were never designed to ride well. Just work well.1967 W200.aka.Hank
1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie
Life is easier in a lower gear.
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What he said...
Maybe I am not the best judge if a smooth ride. GUS has 17 leaves in the rear packs. Empty, he tips the scales at over 8k.1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
1954 Ford 860 tractor
1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS
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I have seen such a thing as having every other leaf removed and replaced in the spring pack with a poly spring, cut and ahaped to match the spring in everyway.
I rode in a truck that had this done.
It was smoother, now it also took away any ability to work so to speak or haul a load.
It was done maybe 5 or 6 years ago and has not had a problem yet.
Would I do it, no. But did it work. Yes. For what that truck is being used for. 100 percent show and will never carry anything heavier than a cooler or a lawn chair.
Alot of guys have done different things, these trucks have been trial and error and have evolved dramatically.
Dont ever be afraid to ask questions and or try something new.
Thank you for joining Jeff and getting us thinking.
glad to have you here!1967 W200.aka.Hank
1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie
Life is easier in a lower gear.
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As Matt said what your plans are matters a lot. I left the front spring pack stock when I had a new one made, though added 2" of lift figuring that with the weight of the Cummins 4BT I installed it would account for the weight, which it did, the truck is level, and maybe soften up the ride a bit, which is harder to determine as I don't have anything to compare it against. However I've also had issues with the front axle hitting the oil pan because the 4BT is taller but more importantly that the softer spring doesn't control bounce as well, so even though it doesn't feel like the front suspension flexes much it obviously does, and this is all just in driving in town. I eventually need to probably have a leaf added to give a little extra stiffness, as well as some more clearancing between the oil pan and front axle.
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Thanks guys for the input. It sounds like, although my springs may be heavier than the standard ones, it's probably not worth replacing them with standard ones so I guess I'll leave them be for now.
Dave,
How is Gus 8,000 pounds?
Desoto61,
One thing to watch out for, if your front end is bottoming out, on mine, I don't know if it was cumulative damage, over the years, or one catastrophic event but, where those rubber stops are, on the frame, above the rear of the front spring, the frame was bent from the spring making contact (hard I presume) when it bottomed out. Probably from loading up the gin pole that was on it but might be something to watch out for.
Matt,
Thanks for the welcome. I can sure use the help. Although I'm very mechanically inclined, I've never been a "car guy" so I'm gonna ask a lot of questions before my WDX gets back together.
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The hydraulic dump bed adds a bunch...
I was pretty amazed when he got scaled for the registration.
cd1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
1954 Ford 860 tractor
1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS
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I'm mostly worried about damage to the oil pan on the motor, as I think it hits there before the bump stops hit. I've heard plenty of horror stories about gin poles being used improperly, but then mine used to be a tow truck, so it saw completely different kind of abuse.
It's not hard to believe, mine is just shy of 7000 lbs, mostly thanks to the diamond plate bed, and that's after removing the tow equipment!
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The 3 actions hardest on the front spring packs are: plowing, gin pole chores, and winching at a downward angle.
The Good Roads plow system employes hydraulic cylinders that remove the risk of damage to the front springs. I am unaware of any other system that does this.
I carry blocks with me that fit between the top of the spring pack and the bottom of the frame rail, thus eliminating any spring damage when I need to winch at a downward angle.
The same precautions should be employed during gin pole tasks. Blocks of wood work just fine and can stow right behind the seat.
cd1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
1954 Ford 860 tractor
1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS
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Originally posted by Cheyenne Dave View PostThe hydraulic dump bed adds a bunch...
I was pretty amazed when he got scaled for the registration.
cd
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