Engine removal steps - one of many ways

[Todd M]

So I pulled the head the other day (10/31) on my engine. It gave off tons of smoke when it ran and that was when I could get it to start. It was not looking the best especially the valves. You can also notice that the 6th cylinder has a replaced exhaust valve already. The engine is stamped P26 and was in it when I got the truck.

After discussing with Matt W; and the intended use of this truck, it would be best to pull it and get the valves done.

So here are the steps I am taking to pull the engine.

At this point I had only drained the radiator thinking that would be sufficient to remove the head, but as you can see that it was not.

[Todd M]

Overall plan is the following:
- removal of the front fenders and radiator as one piece
- drop the transmission
- remove engine accessories to prevent potential damage.
- pull engine with bell housing

I do not have an engine leveler at this time in my workshop but one wonders why not.

[Todd M]

Tuesday was a short day with grandkids but that is the fun stuff

Used the time to prep the front to come off in one piece - help will be over Sunday (hopefully) with my engine hoist.

To do this I completed the following:
- removed the 3 bolts on each fender at the rear
- I removed the inner fender to frame tie down point (3 bolts) to prevent scratches although you could take off the one bolt.
- removed the headlight wires from the junction box on the frame just behind the radiator on both sides
- removed the two nuts below the radiator support
- drained remaining fluid from engine (drain cock is between the ignition coil and oil filler pipe)
- removed hoses from radiator to engine
- loosened the front bolts/nuts on the radiator to cowl tie rod (will remove them completely on Sunday) but this will keep everything in place for now.

[Todd M]

The cylinder drain cock was replaced with a plug at some point on my engine as can be seen in the photo below. Photo was taken today after I had removed the distributor.

[Todd M]

Wednesday
- removed distributor (1 lock screw)
note: coil and spark plug wire holder were removed at the time the head was removed ( two nuts. Wires on the coil were removed.
- finished removing the oil filter (1 fitting at engine, 2 bolts were removed to get the head off that held the filter secure to head.
- removed the carburetor with air filter (2 bolts, 2 screws at choke cable, 1 cotter pin on throttle linkage) only one bolt is highlighted.
- removed the fuel pump and hose (2 bolts and two hose connections)
- drained oil
- removed cables from starter 1 nut

[Todd M]

Thursday
- drain transmission
- removed splash guards L and R that go from frame to lower engine and the spring bumpers.
- dismantled accelerator pedal from throttle cross shaft (pin and cotter pin)
- removed throttle linkage from engine (cotter pin)
- disconnected exhaust tailpipe from exhaust manifold (2 bolts). At this point I removed the exhaust tailpipe as it looked as if it would hinder the removal of the engine at rear mount.
- removed floor panels and center hump
- disconnected transmission from propeller shaft by removing universal joint clamp. (2 bolts). Taped u-joint caps to prevent them from coming off.
- detached transfer case levers (3 bolts) and hand brake support (2 bolts) from transmission
- removed 1 of 4 bolts from transmission to bell housing (13/16” head - 9/16” diameter coarse thread). Manual talks about using pilot studs to help with trans removal. Will see if I can fabricate such an item.

[Todd M]

Connection at throttle crossover is just above the starter.

transfer case levers were zip tied together and out of the way once removed.

[Todd M]

Friday
Started the day with removing the brake pedal. The plan was to remove 4 bolts that hold the lever to the frame, return spring, and the pin and cotter pin that holds the master cylinder pedal rod. Then this assembly will be wiggled free between the frame and PTO.

The bolts came free easily and that is where the train came off the tracks as one could say.

Removal of the cotter pin found that some how one half was twisted against the other half and would not come out. Finally freed it with a punch. The pin would not budge. Used the punch in an attempt to twist the pin to help in its removal. Failed. Bent my punch.

Frustration is setting as I puff on my cigar like an old locomotive. Right or wrong on this next step I remove the master cylinder, then separated the cylinder push rod from the pedal rod.

I start to wiggle it free and just unable to get it to move to the rear very far. If there was another 1/8” added to the gap to the PTO it would come free. Find that it is barely bumping up against the lower right bolt for front cab mount when twisted to remove the pedal. Easily remove this bolt and I am thinking I am home free. Again I am found struggling to get it loose. The lower left bolt for the mount has it even in a greater bind. Struggle to get a socket on the nut on the inside it the frame for some time. frustration is running high again. Make the decision to get the parade moving and cut the head off the bolt - punch it out. Voila - the pedal comes out easily.

1st photo is the pin/cotter pin
2nd is the rear 2 of the 4 bolts to remove from the frame
3rd is the lower rear bolt
4th is the bolt that I cut the head off.

[Todd M]

4 hrs to get the brake pedal off.

My list of items to fix or solve are increasing as I take thing off to remove the engine.
- splash guard - at btm of frame to engine - one bolt hole needs sheet metal welded to actually make it a hole
- exhaust has a crack at the muffler that needs welding
- determine how I want to go with the lower left cab mount bolt. If I use nut and bolt again will I be able to get a socket on it to tighten it or should I weld a nut to frame that is thin enough to get the brake pedal in.

[Todd M]

Clutch pedal removal

After a quick chat with Matt W. To remove the clutch pedal both ends of of the clutch pedal rod needs to be removed, four bolts to the mounting bracket, and the return spring.

With that said I was very worried as the brake pedal pin had to be pounded out with a punch and an engineers hammer.

Fortunately all of this went well. Made up for the brake pedal removal.

[Todd M]

Saturday
Last day of prep work before my helper and engine hoist arrive.

- removed the 4 engine mounting bolts
- created pilot studs out of 9/16“ bolts 4” long. Cut the heads off and ground a rounded nose to them.
- removed the top 2 transmission to bell housing bolts, cleaned the threads and placed pilot studs in them.
- removed one of the two lower bolts because as the last one was being removed I could see the transmission moving and I decided to wait until help arrived.
- removed the 12 volt alternator
- removed the the oil gauge line on another look around the engine. How I would miss this one never knows.

[Todd M]

Sunday
Help and my engine hoist arrived in the morning.

Tackled the transmission. The pilot studs were helpful as it took some maneuvering and figuring out how to get it in a position so that it could be lowered.

The first attempt on removing the engine it wanted to lift the front and with a twist. Points of lift were using two middle head bolts. Next attempt with the middle front and drivers side rear worked well with what was left on the engine. And out it came easily.

Removed the remaining items from the block. The removal of the clutch housing cover, bell housing, pressure plate, and disk went well. The flywheel took some time removing the 8 bolts and I wonder how easily getting the nuts back on will be?

Exhaust and intake manifold removal did not go as well. All four bolts that connect the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold broke so I need to deal with that now. Another item to the list.

Engine is now loaded in the bed of my truck and ready to go to the machine shop on Monday

[Todd M]

Forgot the most important step for the day and that was the removal of the fenders and radiator as one. With this the radiator drain cock as small as it is created a small issue hitting the winch rear brace. If removed the front clip would have been very easy and uneventful.

[Todd M]

Since I was sand blasting my tractor wheels this weekend to give them a needed paint job; I decided the transmission and bell housing could use a good sand blasting and repainting too.

They will be painted tomorrow - my helpers will help decide the color Rio Maroon, Blue (used to touch up my Dodge tailgate), or black. The only colors I have on hand.

[Todd M]

So the transmission and bell housing have been painted but I neglected to post. Went with a grey as the paint that I thought I had was not enough.

Word from the machine shop is that the number one cylinder had some scoring at the top which requires it to be bored past 0.06. The other 5 cylinders were fine at 0.60. Currently trying to figure out way forward.