measurements of brass bushings....

[smokey]

Hello again!

I have to machine new brassbushings for the front axle in my F1PW. The old ones is so worn down so I cant take any measurements from them....

Does anyone have drawings with measurements or have new ones and can measure them so I can get the exact dimentions? I would really appreciate it !!

Have a good day/night and best regards !

// Mattias in Sweden

[Charles Talbert]

Hello again!

I have to machine new brassbushings for the front axle in my F1PW. The old ones is so worn down so I cant take any measurements from them....

Does anyone have drawings with measurements or have new ones and can measure them so I can get the exact dimentions? I would really appreciate it !!

Have a good day/night and best regards !

// Mattias in Sweden

I have new bushings machined from 660 bronze, $40 each if interested.

[smokey]

Thx Charles

Thanks for the offer,I apprecitate it but I have the material (its called bearing brass here) and a friend will machine them for free if I can give him the correct dimensions. Cant say no to that offer....!

Btw: Do you sell lockers to front and rear axels for B1PW?
I will finish restoring these axels within the next couple of weeks and thinking of lockers (I would prefer ARB...)

Do you have any lockers and how much are they?.
I was looking at your site but could not find any info if you have any lockers...

Best regards from Sweden!

// Mattias

[maineSS]

I went through the axle/bushing show about a year ago- ended up making up the shortside axle from an NOS M37 axle, and very fortunately finding an NOS longside axle locally. Both the axles and the bushings need to fit within certain tolerances, and they both have to be concentric- does no good to run an oblong axle journal in a new bushing. If you have badly worn journals, you may want to see if you can remachine them round, and then size the bushing I.D. to the correct tolerance. You'll have to be carefull not to run out of the heat-treated zone on the axle dia. ,though.

[maineSS]

More info...

There's a 3 page thread further back in this forum that covers front axle questions on bushings, seals, and lube- http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...+axle+bushings . If the link doesn't work, search "Hub bearing torque/CV joint grease" in this forum. The bushing spec I found was 1.519- 1.5210" new, wear limit 1.5260". Charles Talbert provided a spec of 1.514" axle OD, 1.519" bushing ID (new), clearance of .005". If you have to machine your axle, stay with .005" HTH.

[smokey]

Thanx !!

Thank you maineSS!!

This was exactly was I was looking for. Now I only have to convert the numbers to Mm (Metric system...) and give to my friend so he can start machine them. I have a converter here somewhere.....

// Mattias

[maineSS]

More recommended reading...

I"d suggest reviewing Paul's knuckle rebuild writeup- lots of step-by-step photos of the entire process- http://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/steeringknuckle . Lot's of other interesting PW projects- he must work 24/7 on this stuff!

[smokey]

Thanks for the link,I have seen alot of his work and its a true inspiration (kind of when an artist watch a painting of Michelangelo.....!)

I will start my knuckle rebuild within a couple of weeks and it was great to see how its should be done.
The bronze bushingon top of the knuckles was already changed to a bearing so this was good for me!
The lower bearing had markings after the rollers in them so I dont really know how to do with this....... Should I change them?

I have stared a new homepage for my Powerwagon project but its not completed due to lack of knowledge how to make a homepage..........
The adress is : http://www.Powerwagon.se

Please visit but its not updated or finished but I will try to finish it within 2-3 weeks,if I can find the time...

For now I will include some pictures of the progress.

Picture 1: Frame and front axle is sandblasted,primed with self etching primer and painted with epoxy based industrial paint (semi gloss).

Picture 2: Front axle ready for new bushings,sealings,wheel bearings,brakepads and brakecylinders and hopefully new gearing.

Picture 3: The new engine. This is a 2001 Nissan 2.7 intercooled turbo diesel. It gives 145hp and 240 lbs/ft at 2000rpm. They are here installed in Nissan Terrano II. I have done some measuring and I think it will fit......

Thats all for now,

Have a nice evening

/Mattias

[maineSS]

I woulsd change out ALL of the wear parts during a knuckle rebuild- you don't want to be doing it over anytime soon. Pay special attention to your axle journals- if they're tapered or oblong in runout, they'll beat the inner seal out in just a few miles, and you'll have to tear it all down again. You'll need to make up a tool to intall the inner axle seal- today's version is a single case style that needs to be supported and aligned during installation. I made up one that did double duty as a seal & bushing installer- another job for your machinist friend?

[smokey]

Hello.

I agree that all the war parts should be changed. That`s the plan...

Thanks for your input but I have some questions for you (mostly since my english isnīt the best....)

1: You wrote:" Pay special attention to your axle journals". What is "axle journals"....? Is it the brassbushing or do you mean where the brassbushing is located on the shaft?

2: You wrote" You'll need to make up a tool to install the inner axle seal"
There is one seal just next to the inner brassbushing,is it supposed to be another closer to the differential?. My "machinist friend" have made the bushings and a tool to install them with but the seal was no problems to install with only a socket and a tube of the right size. Have I missed something...?

Thanks for the tips

Have a nice evening

// Mattias

[maineSS]

"Axle journals" are the part where the bushings and inner seal contact the axle shaft- it's the shiny smooth area. They should be perfectly round and of equal diameter from one end to the other when new. Hopefully your machinist verified this before making your bushings. Most worn axle journals will be out of round and tapered from one end to the other. The seal area may also be grooved. You need to either have them spray metallized and remachined to original spec, or have the bushing area machined true and a custom bushing made to an .005" clearance for the undersize journal. Stay away from the seal area if you go this route- it needs to stay at the original dia. After you get this sorted out, install locking hubs so you don't beat your bushings up in 2 WD. The seal I spoke about is the inner axle seal that goes into the axle tube before the bushing and keeps diff oil out of the knuckle. If you have too much play in your bushings, this seal will leak diff oil which will wash grease off your wheel bearings, leading to failure. It will also get past the ball felt seal, and coat your brakes, leading to really looooong stops, assuming your wheel bearings haven't failed. Charles Talbert can get your axles metallized, if you can't find new ones (good luck), or can't get spray metallizing done locally.

[mastermechanic19]

bushings

I have new bushings machined from 660 bronze, $40 each if interested.

Do you still have these bushings Charles?

[Charles Talbert]

Do you still have these bushings Charles?

Yes we have them in stock, I try to keep these on hand at all times.