Repair or replace the cab?

[Desoto61]

If you've been following my other thread, you know I've gotten the cab on my '46 down to basically the bare metal, which becomes the issue of this thread. Being from Ohio the truck has seen it's share of snow and road salt, so naturally that means rust.

I've put some pictures up here of the problem areas of the cab. I imagine they are the usual places. The rest seems pretty solid, won't know for certain till it's blasted.

So the big question I have is how to proceed? Being new to these trucks and the PW market, is this typical and worth repairing, or would it be more efficient to look for a better cab?

I'm not scared of trying to repair it, one of the reasons I started this project was to learn how to do this kind of work. I just don't want to spend weeks trying to "build a light bulb" when you can get better ones everywhere for a lot less. I can always use the old cab to practice with for that.

Thanks in advance for the replies.

[Kevin Mienke]

I think you should repair it. Personally I get the most satisfaction out of the most difficult repairs.

The areas that you've shown are typical and finding a better one could get expensive. In fact, finding a better one might even require that you find a western truck.

The seam above the windshield and the area where the floor meets the cab's rear panel will be the most challenging but if you are wanting to gain experience, there is no better project.

Check the VPW catalog. I think they have started selling a kit for the seam repair above the windshield.

In the areas where I needed patch panels, I cut out the bad areas and took the pieces to a local shop. They matched the thickness and shaped new pieces for me. All I had left was welding, grinding, and finish work.

[Desoto61]

Check the VPW catalog. I think they have started selling a kit for the seam repair above the windshield.

I'll have to go back through my VPW catalog, I don't remember seeing it but wasn't really looking either.

In the areas where I needed patch panels, I cut out the bad areas and took the pieces to a local shop. They matched the thickness and shaped new pieces for me. All I had left was welding, grinding, and finish work.

That's a good idea, while I'm all for buying tools I was reluctant to spend the money on all kinds of sheet metal tools I would rarely use. I already need a bigger garage as it is.

[OLD DODGE]

Repair it

Most any cab you get will need some sort of repair. You might as well fix the one you have. Once you get your cab cleaned up it won't look so bad. Are you having it media blasted? Here is a link for some patch panels.


http://www.plymouthdoctor.com/truck.html

Also someone on ebay was selling hand fabbed cab corners.

[Desoto61]

Most any cab you get will need some sort of repair. You might as well fix the one you have. Once you get your cab cleaned up it won't look so bad. Are you having it media blasted? Here is a link for some patch panels.


http://www.plymouthdoctor.com/truck.html

Also someone on ebay was selling hand fabbed cab corners.

Great site, thanks!

Yes, I'm going to pull the cab from the frame and have them both blasted since the frame will take a more aggressive media.

Which brings up another question. Should I tack weld some bracing into the cab before I pull it? I've seen it done on cars to prevent the body from twisting when pulled from the frame, or before cutting out too much structure. If so what are the ideal places to brace?

[JimmieD]

Like painting the Golden Gate Bridge, finish it end to end and it's time to go back & start again! What, they shouldn't paint it?

I did a large project with my Town Wagon a couple of years ago, swapped out the entire drivetrain & added a Cummins 4BT, NV4500, Dana 60HD rear, new fuel system tank to engine, springs, front axle, steering box etc. rewired, the whole Maryanne, everything. Next: the body!

Rear-ended twice, HARD: rolled rear floors up, demolished back doors, door frames, left rear quarter, accordioned body side all the way to front doors, blew out all the welds in the lower & upper sections & footwells, even threw hood & front fenders out of align and cracked the windshield, hard!

Body already rotted out because it came from the gulf. Floors, rear fender lips, cargo area sides, footwells, back doors, cab floors, cab mounts, firewall and more were rusted out.

No shop/garage, few tools [gas & MIG welders, metal cutting/grinding tools, hammers, dolly] & limited re$ource$. But, in 9th grade Junior High School Metal Shop I had a very fine teacher, very much like Gordon Maney, who inspired me for years after.

Phase 1 was drivetrain with home-fabbed mounts & cross-members. Phase 2 was cab pockets/mounts hand formed from good scrap, then lower firewall. Next I built a 1" square tubing framework to support cab floors, replaced front floors to cargo area out of roughly 1/8" plate, rebuilt foot wells [all but the step tread area].

Pound out a whole lot of bent steel, then straighten out the rear and replace a bunch of steel, hand forming to copy original. Patch panels, itty-bitty ones stitched together, over heavier framework.

The left rear quarter still needs some work as does the rear door's framework etc. There was nothing left on bottoms in rear so no reference points, so I didn't get doors perfectly hung.

Would I do it again? I'd have to be nuts. Fortunately I am, so I'll be working on it more this spring, enjoyinh every minute of it. I love the smell of burning & sizzling metal in the morning!

Guess how I voted :~ )


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[Kevin Mienke]

You may have already seen it, but there is a good thread entitled bodywork in the service and repair procedures forum. It covers everything you'll need to get started. I'll try to post the link http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...light=bodywork

[Desoto61]

Thanks to all the votes and replies. Seems everyone agrees so far.

I cleaned up the truck today with the pressure washer and pulled some old patch panels previous owners had riveted to the floor. New pictures are available at the link in the first post.

My goal is to get my welder set up this weekend and play around a little. Once I'm comfortable I'll try and put some braces in the cab before I lift it off the frame. I'll need to start looking for a blasting company too.

[Nick]

Talk about motivation..

I read this thread first to last while on duty the other nite. The amount of information here is un believable.

I must say I was in the same position, I wasnt sure if I should pay to have the body work done, get all different sheet metal and hope to find a cab in good shape. But, as I found on Joe's site in another poll, I'm a purist. To me, it means alot to have all the original sheet metal from my truck as it came off the assembly line.

This is my first attempt at any kind of project like this. I have aboslutley no auto experience at all. But, I am a fire fighter so I am mechanically inclined. Ive taught myself alot, and have learned alot from this site and from Joe's. Mostly I sit back and read and take it all in. But once in awhile I need to say something. And this thread did just that.

I will be going to Harbor Freight this week to get a set of their auto body dollies and hammers, nothing good or expensive. As with all the other tools I've bought, unless I get another PW after this one these tools will be a one time use thing. I'd love another one, but space is a problem. I live in a tract home and have two everyday trucks, and the PW in the driveway, and an M101 trailer in my garage.

Anyway, rambling aside, thanks to the people that know what they know for sharing with those of us who dont.

I am looking forward to getting started on my body work, since I almost have the chassis and drive train done, just a little work left on them.

Ok, long drawn out story for a question now. My truck has about six or seven coats of paint on the outsides. The interior cab and engine side of the firewall, and under side of the hood are all the original color, and luckily the same color I want to paint it, submarine green. But, since there is so much paint on the outsides, how do I remove all of that to be able to have a surface to work with? Is it just pure elbow grease and sanding? Seems like it'll be A TON of sanding and paper to remove it all. I was gonna blast it. But I heard it may warp the metal.

I just wanna get started on it since the chassis is almost done.

Then, I'll be close to the steps talked about here, and attacking all the rust.

Thanks so much for the motivation to try the body work myself. I just hope its as fun and kinda as easy as you guys have made it sound.

Thanks
Nick

[Nick]

Jeeze what a knucklehead...

I posted this under the wrong thread. Kevin, can you move this to a different thread...http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/...light=bodywork


I'll pay more attention next time, thanks

Nick

[Desoto61]

I was gonna blast it. But I heard it may warp the metal.

Well, in my research it depends on the material and how it's applied. I don't think the warping issue really exists if you go with soda blasting or other lighter media like walnut shells or plastic beads that can deform to absorb some of that energy. Or as others have said if you go with more traditional media like glass or coal slag then you have to blast it in such a way that you don't impart too much heat to the material.

Personally I plan to find a good blasting shop and let them choose. There are lots of options but ultimately I just want clean, undamaged metal back.