your opinions please

[onetonwagon]

I'm looking at a '80 D-200 crew cab as a platform to build a highway hauler for a camper and to tow a trailer, etc. It's got a 360/auto now. I'm wondering, what the difference is between a D-200 and a 300 suspension wise. Just the springs? Or springs and gear ratio? Was the frame heavier in the 300? I'm thinking CTD implant. The price for this truck is 600.00, and it's in good shape, has been maintained, but does have some slight body issues. I am just looking around and am trying to work up a good viable plan for a multiple use truck. I would appreciate any comments and suggestions.....

[MoparNorm]

I'm really not up on the "Lifestyle" trucks (1972 to 1993), but a few observations:
Generally Dodge frames were different on the 1 ton trucks, as far as frame rail size.
Axles were larger, being Dana 60 or 70 or 80, depending upon the option package.

Depending upon how much you tow and if the camper will be a permanent fixture, the 360 will be overworked and not deliver satisfactory performance in either fuel economy or power. Your idea of a Cummins conversion is sound, however you may find a deal out there on one that already has a Cummins. While initially more expensive, not having to convert it will save a lot of time, effort and expense.

[onetonwagon]

Hey Norm,

Thanks for your input! I'm not hung up on any one truck for this project, and finding one with a factory Cummins would be a good thing. All I'm sure of at this point is, I want a D-300, crew cab, long bed for a place to start.

[pieter]

There are two 1st generation crewcab dually's with a cummins that I have seen. I've also seen 1 or 2 single rear wheel trucks as well (one was on ebay just a month or so ago). I believe the dually ones were produced by a conversion company as I don't think there was factory production of the crewcab body style for the 1st generation trucks. Judd in Nebraska has one or at least did have one. Don't remember if it was a longbed though.

I've seen a couple variations of this nature in the 80's body style. If you are looking for something turn-key, you will probably come across one as they are unique. Not plentiful, but if you are patient then you will find one.

pieter

[712edf]

All I'm sure of at this point is, I want a D-300, crew cab, long bed for a place to start.

The crew cab was dropped in 1985. The Cummins appeared in 1989, so a D-300, crew cab, long bed is going to have to be "made" from 2 trucks. The only engine available in any 1 ton from around 78 til the cummins showed up in 89 is the 360 ( no 318,no six)....The fact that you want a 2wd & not 4wd makes things alot easier as the crew cab only came with the short bed in thw W-series. I know as soon as I say this one will show up but I'm citing what I've always read. 300 series have I think heavier springs and bigger section modulus frames than 200 series. I've seen Dana 60,60hd,70 rears in both series with the 200 always single rear wheel, while the 300 is usually dually set-up.....If you want to start with a factory Cummins truck in the Lifestyle series the club cab is the biggest they came with.....The Cummins motor is going to be the biggest expense in your project, people generally don't have 'em stashed in the garage like they might a LA engine.

[onetonwagon]

I want to thank you guys for your thoughts and comments. They have been a big help in forming a plan for which way to go with this project. I do own a 93 W-250 CTD. I had not really considered altering it for my project, because it is in perfect condition with only 100k on the clock. Also, it has the auto trans, and I really wanted a stick. It always seems to come down to money, and while I might not be getting exactly what I am looking for with this truck, with the right mods, it probably will do the job. I would appreciate more opinions and/or suggestions regarding the viability of using this truck as a platform for my project. So, My truck is a fully optioned LE with extra cab. I give up a little room from a crew cab, but still have room for the Dog and the Woman and some gear. With the auto trans, no PTO winch. I am not a fan of electric winches. Many people swear by them, I just like a PTO. That's not the end of the world though, I'm not a hard core wheeler, and a E winch would no doubt get the job done.
What do others think of the overdrive automatics in these trucks. Is it buildable for extreme duty (heavy towing with a load on the truck too), or is there a better way to go,ie, a different trans set up?
I would want to remove the bed and install a FB dump, for all around use of the truck. With a dually rear and air overload suspension. Would frame mods be necessary?
Anyone with tales to tell about engine upgrades on these 1st gen CTD's would be welcome to comment. What is available, what is the best low buck up grade. Not that you've heard of, but actually drive? Can I get another 100/150 horses with out spending HUGE dollars? Hey, I do realize diesel up grades aren't going to be cheap, but I don't want to burn money either! All comments and ideas greatly appreciated!

[MoparNorm]

... So, My truck is a fully optioned LE with extra cab. I give up a little room from a crew cab, but still have room for the Dog and the Woman and some gear...

What else in life do you need?...ha! ha! = )

[KRB64]

What else in life do you need?...ha! ha! = )

I agree, but a wise philosopher once said, 'tis the nature of Man's desire to never be satisfied... (I think he was Greek and I paraphrased some, but I digress)

I have a 1st gen CTD similar to yours and also desire a crew cab...

I think you can build your auto to suit your needs. When mine ever goes I hope to upgrade with a Goerend converter and valve body plus the mod to allow fluid circulation in park. I've towed some decent sized loads with mine with the following mods (from my signature on a CTD forum):

1992 W250 Club Cab LE, auto OD on shifter, 3.54 limited slip rear, Westach: boost/PT pyro/tranny & oil temp guages on dash; Issopro tach on steering pod, Bosch 190s, Ol' Smoky fuel pin, 366 spring, fuel screw bottomed, pull cable, 1/8" bump, full synthetics, Borgeson shaft, aFe filter w/ swiss-cheesed box, 16cm housing, 4" straightpipe, Derale AT cooler under bed, gooseneck ball, HD bumpers...

What about a hydraulic winch as an alternative? If you're going to have a dump bed anyway you already have the pump right?

[KRB64]

What do others think of the overdrive automatics in these trucks. Is it buildable for extreme duty (heavy towing with a load on the truck too), or is there a better way to go,ie, a different trans set up?
...Anyone with tales to tell about engine upgrades on these 1st gen CTD's would be welcome to comment. What is available, what is the best low buck up grade. Not that you've heard of, but actually drive? Can I get another 100/150 horses with out spending HUGE dollars? Hey, I do realize diesel up grades aren't going to be cheap, but I don't want to burn money either! All comments and ideas greatly appreciated!

More thoughts...

A lot of guys convert their 518 autos to the '94 + autos that have lock up. But without the computer brains to go with it you have to manually control lock up yourself.

The good thing about the 12V 6BT is you can mod it without electronics and by buying "realatively affordable" upgrades. Most of the mods I made were replacing parts that wore out anyway. If I was to guess my hp #s by boost it would be mid to upper 200 or so but I'll bet not much of that is passing through the auto to the ground actually...

[onetonwagon]

Hey KRB64, Thanks for your reply. I understood some of what you are saying, but have to admit about 1/2 went over my head.....
I don't know what a Ol' Smokey fuel pin is, a 366 spring, a pull cable, 1/8" bump or 16cm housing. I'm assume these are all engine mods, but ' a pull cable'??? I seems to me that the trans is the "weak link" in the system. It can't be locked to be able to use an exhaust brake, which I think is fairly important when hauling/towing heavy loads. I just don't like the thought of relying strictly on wheel brakes when decending long steep grades. Am I wrong in my thinking here?
Also, you mention having a mod that allows fluid to circulate while the trans is in park. What does that mean and what is the benefit? Would a earlier 3 sp. 727 and a Gear Vendor be a way to go, or will a Allison adapt to my bell housing, etc?

[KRB64]

On a 1st gen you get to wrench your upgrades instead of plugging in electronics!
The fuel cone controls when & how much fuel somes in. Ol Smoky is one aftermarket cone as is a Denny T. A 1/8" bump is a timing advance for hp & economy. The 366 spring is a lighter govenor spring that allows rpms to come up quicker and rev higher, but still within safe limits. A 1992 had a stock turbo housing of 21cm2 I think and the 16cm allows quicker boost. After increasing the fuel you can wear out the rubber lip on the shut down solinoid, hence the need for a manual pull cable to shut down engine...
You're right, an exhaust brake would have little effect on a stock auto. On a stick or '94+ you need to upgrade the exhaust springs.
In "Park", the 727/518 tranny doesn't circulate fluid for warmups/cool downs or long idles can be a problem in "P". You can drill a hole somewhere to allow fluid to circulate in "P". Trannys are a big mystery to me so I'm only repeating what I've read. A 727 is same bolt pattern as the 518 only no OD. You might can find some of your tranny questions on the diesel forum which has a lot of stickies on that stuff. PM me and I'll share it with you.