A) Once the engine is running turn the toggle off and let the voltage go through the ballast resistor. I ran a similar set-up for years on a 318 truck. B) Most people here replace the stock ammeter with a voltmeter, or put both wires on the same terminal of the ammeter, thus bypassing it with a solid connection. C) 78 gauge cluster should fit 74 dash D) Stock fuel gauges usually quit due to bad grounding of the sending unit or pin hole in the float in the tank...If your temperature gauge works then the problem with your fuel gauge is NOT likely to be in the instrument panel area.
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Update:
Redid the wiring from the starter to relay and the battery to relay. Also replaced the relay. The 8 ga wire from teh starter to relay didn't have full contact within the connector. I replaced it, and the main battery cable and all was well. Also found more problems, but atleast it cranks and runs now. Off to Advance to blow more money :-D
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Originally posted by 712edf View PostA) Once the engine is running turn the toggle off and let the voltage go through the ballast resistor. I ran a similar set-up for years on a 318 truck. B) Most people here replace the stock ammeter with a voltmeter, or put both wires on the same terminal of the ammeter, thus bypassing it with a solid connection. C) 78 gauge cluster should fit 74 dash D) Stock fuel gauges usually quit due to bad grounding of the sending unit or pin hole in the float in the tank...If your temperature gauge works then the problem with your fuel gauge is NOT likely to be in the instrument panel area.
Now after it running for 15 minutes I have found out the temp gauge does infact work. I'll need to go run for some fuel to see if the gauge works, or something else is faulty.
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Originally posted by mmwb View Post"I'll need to go run for some fuel to see if the gauge works"
Yeah, appear to work better if there is fuel in the tank. lol
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