1st Post/Question? 75 w100 Timing Marks.

[opqual]

Hello All...

I have done my timing by ear, as the balancer timing line doesn't line up anywhere close to the numbers. It's way way off the map. Anyways, I've been doing a little research. It seems as if these old balancers have a 2 piece with rubber design. After getting old, the slip and misalign. Is this the case why the truck seems to run fairly well, but the timing marks are way way way off?

Regards,

Joel
Vancouver,Wa

[712edf]

WELCOME! And yes balancers slip. You are using the driver's side front cylinder as #1 I assume.

[opqual]

WELCOME! And yes balancers slip. You are using the driver's side front cylinder as #1 I assume.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I timed with drivers side #1. It put the rotor pointing straight forward toward front. I used that as number one. Then i placed wires clockwise. It seems to run fine, but I know I could do better.

How much effort is involved to pull the balancer and replace? Can you "pop" it off from under the truck, or do you need to pull radiator and all that stuff?

P.S. I bought this 3 weeks ago. My midlife crisis made me buy what my first vehicle was when I got my drivers license. A 74 d100 club cab long bed. "What a frickin pig"... lol

I'm thinkin' this truck was more exciting in 84' (graduation), than 2009... :-)

Regards,

Joel
Vancouver,Wa

[OLD DODGE]

Before you pull it and replace it you should check to see that its good or bad. Run the #1 piston up to top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke and see if the timing mark lines up. Easiest to do it with all the spark plugs out. You could check for TDC with a small probe of some kind or even a visual looking through the hole with a flashlight. Its best done with the head off and a dial indicator but I don't think you want to go that far. You could also have a broken advance spring in the distributor or a very loose timing chain.

[opqual]

Before you pull it and replace it you should check to see that its good or bad. Run the #1 piston up to top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke and see if the timing mark lines up. Easiest to do it with all the spark plugs out. You could check for TDC with a small probe of some kind or even a visual looking through the hole with a flashlight. Its best done with the head off and a dial indicator but I don't think you want to go that far. You could also have a broken advance spring in the distributor or a very loose timing chain.

The marks do indeed line up on the compression stroke to #1. The rotor points right down the middle of the manifold towards front.

You are most likely correct then, that the chain has "stretched" some. Never gotten past the water pump, but I guess I can figure it out... ;-)

(Assuming) I take on this replacement task, I read that double roller chains are better. Does this mean I will need an aftermarket cover v.s. stock?

Any speciality tools for the job, or just "knucklebusters"... ;-)

Have a great day!

Regards,

Joel
Vancouver,Wa

[OLD DODGE]

No special cover required unless you go with a gear drive. Assuming its a small block, you can inspect your timing chain by removing your fuel pump and sticking your finger into the hole to feel the tension or slack in the chain. If you have been turning the motor back and forth you may have to rotate it to get one side of the chain tight and the other side loose for inspection. A new chain will really wake up the motor assuming the rest is in good shape.

[712edf]

Is this a LA engine (318,360)? I'm assuming so since your distributor rotor turns clockwise. The radiator doesn't need to come out but it would make for more working room. Fan & shroud need to come off. All belts loosened, then lower pulley needs to come off. Then the big bolt in the crank end needs to come out. You'll need a breakover bar or impact & probably willl have to wedge something at the flywheel area to keep the engine crank from turning backwards until you break the bolt loose.

Then you'll need a 3-bolt puller (rent from parts store or buy) to get the balancer off.

If your doing the timing chain just do what you did when you replaced the water pump but go a little further & remove its cover.

You can use stock timing chain cover over most all double roller set-ups.

For good measure its recommended to get the engine back to #1TDC before removing timing chain & spockets.

[opqual]

Thanks for the reply.

I replaced the fuel pump yesterday... Ugggg, I wish i new I could do a test then... Oh well, the fuel pump is easy enough to take out.

So... Your saying that now matter how I turn the crank "by hand", should there be any slack,slop, or play in the chain? And if there is, it needs to be replaced?

Regards,

Joel
Vancouver,Wa

[opqual]

Correct. a stock 360 La engine. 1975 w100 standard cab s/b.

[opqual]

Is this a LA engine (318,360)? I'm assuming so since your distributor rotor turns clockwise. The radiator doesn't need to come out but it would make for more working room. Fan & shroud need to come off. All belts loosened, then lower pulley needs to come off. Then the big bolt in the crank end needs to come out. You'll need a breakover bar or impact & probably willl have to wedge something at the flywheel area to keep the engine crank from turning backwards until you break the bolt loose.

Then you'll need a 3-bolt puller (rent from parts store or buy) to get the balancer off.

If your doing the timing chain just do what you did when you replaced the water pump but go a little further & remove its cover.

You can use stock timing chain cover over most all double roller set-ups.

For good measure its recommended to get the engine back to #1TDC before removing timing chain & spockets.

Thank you 712... that was very in depth. I will check the tension tomorrow.


Regards,

Joel

[greg rider]

Put her at #1 TDC and make sure that the timing marks on the cam and crank gear are indexed properly. It is not difficult but doing it now is easier than when it goes!! Trust me, rainy night, gravel parking lot, BEEEEENNN THERE!! At least it was at a bar where I could celebrate my acomplishment! LOL!

[opqual]

Put her at #1 TDC and make sure that the timing marks on the cam and crank gear are indexed properly. It is not difficult but doing it now is easier than when it goes!! Trust me, rainy night, gravel parking lot, BEEEEENNN THERE!! At least it was at a bar where I could celebrate my acomplishment! LOL!

Ha... Yeah, I hear ya! Basic replacement cost of standard parts are 25 for waterpump, 30 for timing chain, and 50 for a distributor... Add a few bucks for gaskets etc... I like gettin' my hands dirty more than anything.

I appreciate the replies.

Regards,

Joel

[opqual]

I finally got the damper puller yesterday. I'm not sure how much "slop" is suppose to be in the chain, but it had around an inch of play in it...?

I'm kinda of surprised at how it is all held together. A "not very tight" 5/8 bolt with some sort of balancer cup holding it all on. The whole thing pulled right of the shaft. Damper took quite a bit more muscle. ;-)

I have a question about the oil pan gasket. Taking off the timing cover, exposes an inch or so of oil pan. I have a new seal. How do i go about "sealing" up those 90 degree corners? Scrape off the old gasket, and fill with RTV?

Also, when applying new gaskets Waterpump/Timing Cover, should I apply RTV to both sides of the supplied gasket? I want to make sure I only do this once!

Thank you in advance...

Regards,

Joel

[712edf]

Yep that chain was shot! I've never had any luck keeping timing covers from leaking without doing the pan gasket too.

If your kit didn't include any new pieces of pan gasket I'd not cut the old out, but RTV it both sides....Same for the other gaskets. Let things dry before adding fluids & starting engine.

Once bought & installed a short block that DIDN"T have the cam bolt holding the top spocket on.....I'd didn't catch it til after the engine fired once then failed to fire again....No cam rotation=no distributor rotation=no spark=no start....Of course after I corrected this it leaked oil from where you're talking about.

[opqual]

I believe the "all in one" gasket set I ordered from Autozone comes with those two small radius gasket pieces. Looks like I'll just scrape off the old, and apply the new. With RTV on both sides first... Thanks.

I guess I'll realize the "slop" difference when I attach the new set. I was hoping it was toast. Didn't want to be going to all this trouble for no reason.


hopefully, this will make up for the hesitation I get when accelerating...

Thanks again,

Joel