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Best paint for axle housing?

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  • #16
    Lets See

    If this works?

    http://image.automotive.com/f/tech/1...t_of_paint.jpg

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    • #17
      disp. filter

      is this something i can buy at lowes or tractor supply or do i have to go to a specialty paint store?

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      • #18
        Most Anywhere, I Think

        Lowes, Napa Auto, Home D, most paint sellers sell 'em.

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        • #19
          Eastwood has them for about $7 (they're running 10% off and free shipping for a while too). They have other better and more expensive options as well. Otherwise I haven't seen something like that at a big box store. Maybe Harbor Freight if you're lucky, otherwise a paint supply store would be your best bet locally.

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          • #20
            there is a fancy one called a snake, Eastwood carries that one I think?

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            • #21
              phosphate is a mild acid that eats up the rust I buy a watered down (I guess) version at home depot called "must for rust" .
              As to painting the rear and most under the truck stuff I 2nd the rustoleum rusty metal primer and black paint

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              • #22
                I have had great results with Chassis Saver. It has been on my front dif (HP D30, 2000 XJ) for a few years now and still looks great.

                http://www.magnetpaints.com/

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Gordon Maney View Post
                  When you say, treat with phosphate, what are you meaning by phosphate? Is that a liquid used in paint prep? [I am not a painter....}
                  Phosphate treatment is commonly used in the powder coating business. Any good powder coating provider will have dip tanks set up in their facility. Our provider has dip tanks with the solution, (it is mixed with water.) Smaller parts are placed in metal baskets & immersed while larger items are simply dipped into the churning solution, (it is circulated by a pump system.) Items too large for the tanks get the solution sprayed manually. This chemical treatment cleanses & keeps flash rust at bay on bare metal for an extended period along with enhancing powder adhesion.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by the engineer View Post
                    ok, so it looks like rust oleum. sorry, charles, i wish i could afford powder coating, but i cant. does gloss black look stupid on axles? does semi gloss look better? i've never paid attention before.
                    Sorry, not necessary. You ask what was best, I gave you the answer. I too have used other stuff years ago on my own equipment because of cost & other reasons. It boils down to this, powder coating will look & hold up great years down the road as the durability factor & appearance is simply unmatched in the industry. I've found it works this way, pay once for a job well done, enjoy it without worry. Use the lesser quality stuff, if it's exposed to the elements, you will do it repeatedly over the years if you keep it looking good. After a while, you will realize your investment has become larger just to keep the lesser quality stuff looking presentable. I know ready cash is the factor lots of times, been there & done that, yet facts are facts, plain & simple. I've got to where I just try to wait till I have the funds to do it right if I'm working on my stuff.

                    A word about Chassis Saver, we used it on the 2 brush trucks we did for the Georgeville Fire Dept., (posted on our website.) These trucks were built back in the mid 90's, of course they are stored inside when not in use. This product has been the best we ever used short of the powder coating process. It does say right on the label that exposure to sun light will cause it to fade from the gloss black to a dull gray appearance over time. This has not happened on these trucks to that extent, the gloss black has changed to flat black. Being stored out of direct sun is the reason I assume. The product durability factor is definitely not that which you can expect from powder coating, but has held up well. It is certainly far superior to Rustoleum. It would be my next recommendation short of powder coating.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by the engineer View Post
                      is this something i can buy at lowes or tractor supply or do i have to go to a specialty paint store?
                      The disposible moisture traps, (filters) will not solve the issues you described with moisture. They are simply used as an added insurance policy to hopefully capture tiny trace amounts of uncondensed moisture from the air supply. It has nowhere near the capacity to handle moisture issues you are actually seeing in your air tool exhaust. You will need to invest in much more than that to paint successfully in humid conditions. With the very best moisture skimming equipment in your air supply system, it can still be an issue if you will be spraying in a area where high humidity is a given in your climatic environment.

                      Today's modern paint ingredients do not deal well with even the smallest trace amounts of moisture in the air supply. Too many chemicals are involved, tiny amounts of moisture can make the formulation behave very strangely. Older synthetic enamels using mineral spirits for reducing are much more user friendly in a tough environment. It's activators & hardeners that act crazy if moisture gets in. The older stuff won't tolerate a lot & get a good spray job, but small amounts usually don't cause utter disaster & high $$$ re-do's.

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                      • #26
                        humidity

                        i live in central florida, and humidity is around 90-100% this time of year. i guess that's why i get so much moisture in the lines. i drain the tank every nite, and could not figure out why i could not solve the moisture problem. i guess paint shops around here have hi end hi dollar drying systems in place. i heard a catalized urethane (epoxy) would be good too, but that i would have to spray it on. knowing my moisture problem, i figured this wasn't an option.

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                        • #27
                          engineer ospho

                          the 77 M884 cab and under side of bed was rusted, every where in every way! I picked up some ospho/skybrite corp on the recommendation of some Military vehicle enthusiasts. I garbage picked a plastic garden sprayer and sprayed the rusty areas . I hosed the whole truck down the next day with water. it lookes so much better I still havent gotten around to painting over it yet. Ospho was hard to find and I wound up having to buy a case from the manufacturer skybrite. I would send you a quart but shipping acid is a big hassle. personal safety precautions must be followed because its very thin , it flys around and splashes easily. I'm almost glad that I had to buy a case, it works so well that they will probably out law it soon. If nothing else, it buys you some time and looks better right away, giving you a sense of accomplishment (very important) when a project seems overwhelming. this product would seem to be a good fit on a farm with working trucks that need to be held together and not necessarly look perfect. I'm a rookie and welcome any opinions on ospho, it's pros & cons and user experiences.

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                          • #28
                            try moving your air dryer further from the compressor. The air is warmest near the compressor and is is cooling in your lines after going through the dryer causing condensation. Long rubber hoses cause problems as well. We have a chiller on our compressor at work no proplems with water , but big buck too!

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                            • #29
                              I use rust oleum, happy with what is does for the price...

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