'74 w200 non-start questions

[KenP]

hi Guys -- appreciate any thoughts & help with a non-start condition of my w200 pw -- 360 AT Was running fine after carb rebuild last year (holley 4 br 600 cfm -vac sec) - ran very rich before rebuild, & still needs some tuning when time. Recently ran - started a number of times during light load hauling. Previously replaced starter (a rebuilt Adv. Auto "best" of their choices) & new starter relay (on fender) - again ran fine last winter. Then a few weeks ago wouldn't start - suddenly after running fine for several hours. On start attempt with engine fully warm, cranking on a new optima acted like dead battery symptoms - jumped with another fully charged optima - same. After a few seconds of cranking, seems like a weak battery - cranks slower to stop ...With starting fluid, it just fires, but dies immediately - before any chance to feather the gas pedal to get to run. So, I removed cleaned & regapped the plugs to 035", replaced the ballast resister (had hairline crack on inspection of removed resister), repaced the electronic module (on drivers fender) with my spare. Same symptoms & no start. The connections seem fine, but I'll recheck. Any down-&-dirty things I should do before going into much further detail? My factory manual ignition section lists some items for no start -- coil, coil pickup, in addition to starter etc. Other threads here discuss timing chain slop etc. Appreciate advice on best order to fix this non start pw. Seems electrical to me, but could a bad fuel pump give these symptoms? Should fire for some more cycles on starting fluid even if bad pump? Thanks much & all the best regards,

-- ken

[712edf]

While this is DANGEROUS, I'd use a squirt of gasoline instead of starting fluid when trying toactually start the engine. Then you may want to check timing while cranking, maybe remove the plugs to decrease cranking load. Possibly the distributor has moved. While you have the plugs out, disconnect the fuel line into the carb and rig it to flow into a container. Remove the coil wire then crank the engine over to see what the fuel pump is doing. Make sure no gas or vapors are around any possible source of spark.

As for parts, start with coil. This is assuming your starter and ballast resistor are proven good. NOTE: New does not neccessarily mean good when it comes to electrical parts.

Others will have more and probably better suggestions.

Bucky

[KenP]

thanks Bucky -- helpful suggestions. Coil replacement does seem good as low-buck part before other items. Still could be that new rebuilt starter & you're right so I'll probably end up pulling it & taking back to Adv Auto. Not sure what you mean by check timing while cranking ... directly with timing light while cranking w/no plugs? how since it doesn't fire. thanks again - & appreciate any suggestions. all the best,

-- ken

[712edf]

Not sure what you mean by check timing while cranking ... directly with timing light while cranking w/no plugs? how since it doesn't fire. thanks again - & appreciate any suggestions. all the best,

-- ken

Even without a plug a wire is still getting a spark. If & how you check it depends on the type of timing light. For the sake of simiplicity, check the timing while cranking with everything hooked up normally. This is easiest with a remote starter switch or an assistant in the vehicle. If timing has moved it WILL effect cranking speed & starting.

Also check you plugs with an ohmmeter. It has been my experience that for every 8 spark plugs you buy these days, 1 will be bad (no continuity) and 1 will have too much resistance (low continuity).I use only non-resistor type plugs when possible.

I think optima batteries are a waste of money! Others may love them.

[KenP]

ok -- will do this weekend. thanks again. best, -- ken

[papardun]

I didn't quite understand your first post, one battery acted as though it had a low charge and you replaced it and second also acted as though it had a low charge? Or the second battery worked but then drained quickly? With the first example, I would check a bad ground or a loose wire, the second scenerio makes me think that the alternator went bad, maybe cooked the battery.

The coil and timing may be a problem but I'm not sure they would affect cranking.

[KenP]

thanks -- the first battery cranked normally for a few seconds then slowed to near stop (interesting that then was the quick fire - but not enough to feather the gas to get to run), the second battery was jumped (normal parallel hookup) to the first battery then another start try. Same response - fast initial cranking that quickly goes to slow. Both batteries are good & fully charged. I'll further check the connections & other items suggested. thanks again & all the best,

-- ken

[712edf]

Did you have a chance to check fuel pump output, ignition spark, or cranking speed (plugs out)? This is why I prefer 4-speeds, I can drag the thing down the road til it either runs or tears all to pieces. Either way the immediate problem gets solved!

Is the engine building up some kind of resistance to spinning after a few cranks? Also many here recommend replacing the stock gear reduction type starter with a high-torque mini starter. They are pricey but are smaller,lighter, more powerful too.

[TommyDodge]

74 W200 non start questions

How is the pickup for the distributor?

[greg rider]

It also sounds like you may have old,worn,corroded battery cables. They can carry voltage but not amperage. You crank and they are getting warm and increasing resistance,this will cause cranking to slow rapidly. Also with the plugs out crank on it and double check your timing. If your chain is stretched it will cause you starting and running (or lack of) problems. This is just something to put in your brain.