It would help if I put this in the right spot...sorry for duplicate..Ok I will try an explain this the best I can. I have owned this 75' for quite a few years, I have put in a new engine that probably has 80-90000 miles on it as of now, put in new ring bearings, and a RV cam when I got the engine. The motor as of now has a 2bbl Holley carb and intake. I use the truck for plowing snow..and I tell you what..when it ran good, it could make a mountain of snow. but as of a few years ago, the truck wanted to just fall on its face when It was put into drive, like it had no gas. I have put a refurbed carb on and have put another kit in it as well with no luck after the kit. It ran good when I put the new carb on, but it has been awhile since it was on, hence the kit...I know the bad thing for it is just using it in the winter time but that is what she is used for. So my question is, ideas on why it is falling on its face when I hit the gas..and should I upgrade to a 4bbl intake and carb? Thank you for those who know alot more than I...ask if you have any questions and I will try and answer...been awhile since I worked on her...need to give her some TLC...
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75' W100 4x4 carb issues? Or other
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As of yesterday...I have done the following to figure things out
New plugs
New wires
Went thru all electrical connections on cab and mounted items and cleaned all terminals and put a ground loop to all mounted items on the firewall and fenders to make sure I get a good ground (had issues with lights dimming all the time)
Cleaned Cap and roter..and inside of Dist with contact cleaner
Cleaned carb up good
Checked all fluids...changed oil...etc
I know some of this will not affect the stall or dying of the moter when you hit the pedal...I just wanted to list all so if there were any questions....
I still have the stall or dying of the motor when I hit the pedal. I adjusted the carb on all of the settings for the accelorator pump...no change. It runs really good now..but when it is under a load and you hit the pedal...it just drops on its face...nothing..then comes back to life.
I had someone state that possibly the heat risers are blocked in the intake..to take that off and clean those...could this be a culprit??? Thank you again for all your help.
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Sounds like you did everything that anyone else would do. The cross over would affect the choke pot since the heat wouldn't be getting across the manifold. On the outside chance has the vacuum advance been checked? Is there any side movement in the distributor shaft? Just trying to check all the bases.
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Originally posted by Ron in Indiana View PostSounds like you did everything that anyone else would do. The cross over would affect the choke pot since the heat wouldn't be getting across the manifold. On the outside chance has the vacuum advance been checked? Is there any side movement in the distributor shaft? Just trying to check all the bases.
another question would vaccum have anything to do with it?? Can the power boster go out at all??
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Originally posted by Ron in Indiana View PostI would check the vacuum advance and the hose from the carb to the distributer. The vacuum is created by the intake manifold. Are you refering to the power booster on the brakes? I don't see how it would have an effect on the stumble you're experiencing.
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I found with a reman carb I had on my 74 the accel pump (I believe that is the proper term for it. The spring loaded plunger inside the carb) did not last against the E rate gas they sell today. So I had to order a Ethinol rated one to replace it with. Non Ethinol gas is getting really hard to find now a days where I live.
When it was failing gave me the same as you are dealing with, would idel just fine (sometimes kind of rought) but when you gave it gas it acted like it was either flooding out or starving out til you let off...
Most of my small engine item carbs get a new seal almost every year due to the Ethinol eating threw them. Really getting to be a royal pain.
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Originally posted by Hawk View PostI found with a reman carb I had on my 74 the accel pump (I believe that is the proper term for it. The spring loaded plunger inside the carb) did not last against the E rate gas they sell today. So I had to order a Ethinol rated one to replace it with. Non Ethinol gas is getting really hard to find now a days where I live.
When it was failing gave me the same as you are dealing with, would idel just fine (sometimes kind of rought) but when you gave it gas it acted like it was either flooding out or starving out til you let off...
Most of my small engine item carbs get a new seal almost every year due to the Ethinol eating threw them. Really getting to be a royal pain.
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I had the guys at the auto parts store look it up in the Holley book. These are starting to become a common part for most parts stores to carry now due to the higher rate of Ethinol in the gas now a days. It use to be a small 5% but now I have seen most pumps up to 15% rate.
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Originally posted by Hawk View PostI had the guys at the auto parts store look it up in the Holley book. These are starting to become a common part for most parts stores to carry now due to the higher rate of Ethinol in the gas now a days. It use to be a small 5% but now I have seen most pumps up to 15% rate.
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Ethanol affects a metal spring?
Ethanol is a bummer. Causing all kinds of trouble in the boating world. Lots of carb rebuilds due to the water gunking things up and tanks absorbing water.
Have you replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump?1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
2005 Jeep KJ CRD
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