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4bbl Kick Down Linkage

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  • 4bbl Kick Down Linkage

    Originally posted by 712edf View Post
    Whatever you do, DON"T remove the kickdown. Tranny's burn up quickly that way.Bucky
    What tends to go if the kick down is removed?

    When I had my 400 built, I changed the 2 bbl to a 850 TQ. I have the linkage hooked up but it is not adjusted properly. I have to down shift by using the shift lever.

    I will make some adjustments before driving it much more.

  • #2
    I drove mine for over 10 years before I realized what I did and corrected it. When I rebuilt the motor years ago I did what every die hard Chevy guy would do. I hooked up the linkage so it would pull the lever at wide open throttle. Only problem was this wasn't a Chevy.

    Last year after waiting patiently for years for the transmission to give so I'd have an excuse to have it redone, I decided to install a cheap shift improver kit from B&M. It was then that I opened the shop manual and realized that the linkage was wrong. The slot in the linkage needs to be adjusted so that the linkage moves with the carb over it's entire travel. The throttle valve in the trans needs to know where the carb is at the entire time in order to shift correctly.

    I'd assume (and anyone who knows more about the transmissions than I do please chime in) that you could tear up clutches from the soft shifts and lack of line pressure needed to engage the bands correctly. It's that throttle valve and linkage that determines the line pressure to the valve body. No movement means no pressure means quick soft shifts and torn up clutches. But, like I said, my truck must have been driven for more than 10 years (maybe 20-25K miles) before I realized what was wrong. So far so good; trans is still alive and well.

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    • #3
      The lever movement controls fluid pressure inside the valve body. I may have mispoke about "burning up" the transmission, although I have heard of such. What I should have said was optimum transmission performance won't be achieved with the kickdown disconnected. Transmissions that have been modified such as those with manual valve bodies used in drag racing, don't need the kickdown. But those vehicles aren't street driven either.

      The engine & transmission need to work as a team. One out of kilter effects the other.

      Bucky

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 712edf View Post
        I may have mispoke about "burning up" the transmission, although I've heard of such...
        I have heard the same. Today I will see if I can make what I have work. I have also been looking at a cable kick down from Lokar that I may use.
        http://www.lokar.com/product-descrip...ch-kd-kits.htm

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        • #5
          transmixer woes

          QJ, you asked what tends to go, it's the bands and clutches from insufficent pressure. the kick-down from any automatic car or truck, as long as it's a b-block 383,400,361, (the 440's are a little taller so they are a little tricky on a smaller engine.) the kick-down doesn't touch the body anywhere, thats why a car kick-down will work. you may have to tweak the linkage a little to make it clear everywhere but it's not hard to do. ma-mopar only made about a hundred different rods for this. I used to have a box with about 30 in it, all but two were different. adjust to suit yourself. Dave.

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          • #6
            There was about 1/2" between the linkage slot and the post on the carb, with the linkage adjusted full out. So put a 1/4 20 nut and bolt and some washers in the slot so I would have thread adjustment. The truck shifts much better now, crisp not muddy and kicks down like it should.

            Thanks for all the info. I'm glad this topic came up. It gave me the motivation to get out there and do what should have been done when the engine went back in.

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            • #7
              transmixer woes

              Glad to have been a little help. Dave.

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