To those running an Edelbrock 1406....

[ram fan]

Hey guys, I have one sitting on a Weiand spreadbore dual plane with the adapter between them with the electric choke. Ok, I have the choke set to the maximum lean side in order to get rid of the rich smell in the exhaust. The truck ('77 M-883 318) runs/sounds the best with the mixture settings open 1 full turn from being closed. Like I say, the truck runs ,sounds and *smells* the best at these settings. Throttle response is good too. My problem is that at operating temp (I haven't tried it cold), it is hard starting. I was hoping that at these settings it would start right up being warm. It wants to be pumped a few times and then after several cranks, it'll fire. It seems to me that it's starved for fuel since it doesn't want to start right up, but as I stated, it seems to run the best at these settings. I know there are alot of variables with these carbs..ie metering jets and the like, but where do you guys have your carbs set? Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Craig

[pieter]

Sounds like a typical starting sequence for this engine to me...

Pieter

[ram fan]

Well I had the chance to let it cool off this afternoon and do a cold start and it seems that even if it is hot or cold it needs to be pumped at least a half a dozen times and then cranked for at least 4-5 seconds before it'll start. I can see this while cold, but not hot, it should fire after a couple turns. It seems very odd to have to put 6 pumps of fuel (which is alot) into a warm/hot engine to start. The gas spray into the carb is strong when pumped for what it's worth. Could it because of jet sizes that would make it start hard? Just trying to put some extra info out there as I get it.
Thanks!
Craig

[712edf]

What's the intial timing set at? Does it labor while cranking? Of course if it really runs well, I'd just stick to pumping the pedal on starts instead of monkeying with the timing.

Bucky

[The Other Ross]

Had the same problem w/a 360 and that carb.I'd say you have it to far advanced.

[Deathdeelr]

I've had this same problem with mine for years. I've got a Holley 4150 on an Edelbrock dual plane. Almost acts like vapor lock even in zero degree weather. Engine gets tuned once a year. If you fix it let us know...

[ram fan]

Well I had it on the road today and it ran fine on the road, BUT when it shut it off, it was back to it's old trick of not wanting to start. I was at Wally World just at the time it wouldn't start. I felt to me like it was flooded, so I went in to kill some time and let it set. While in store I picked up some starting fluid. I figured at least it would fire on it. I went back out to the truck only after about 15 minutes, shot it with fluid and nothing, it didn't even know I sprayed it. After nearly 40 minutes of trying to start it, she fires right up. It seemed short on power with the mixture settings at one full turn from closed, so I gave it a turn and a half which really helped. It didn't help the starting issue though. All day I was thinking it may be a timing issue. I never checked it in the two years I've owned it so there's no telling where the timing is. I too thought about the vapor lock. I'm going to time it and go from there. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the help!
Craig

[Deathdeelr]

Don't forget you might be getting an intermittent connection at the fuseables on the starter relay. Get rid of them. After hours of trying to start her, getting intermittent weak sparks, eventually a tow, then cursing to turn the key after she was dropped in my driveway and started, I discovered a bad fuseable. All the fuseables on my truck are gone. Now she's still a bear to start when hot but it starts. Keep in mind the fuseables on the starter relay don't just turn the starter. They run your ignition too.

[squatch]

I'm running a carter 625 on my 383 b motor. Pretty much the same carb. I run a holley 7psi electric pump on the frame near tank with an adjustable fuel pressure regulater set for about 4 lbs near the carb. Starting probs are non existant. Without the FPR in line it acts as yours does. Electric pump was one of the best improvements made to the truck. It can sit for weeks and starts this ole '65 motor like it was FI! The edelbrock spring loaded "off road" float needles work wonders as well. They keep the floats from bouncing around. As for the choke I just loosen the screws when the engine is cold and air is cool and turn it till the choke is just closed then tighten the screws. I don't pay any attension to rich lean labeling on the choke. Set it this way and it will open when it warms up but not stay closed any longer than neccesary to start the motor. On mine idle air bleeds are about 1.5 turns open.

[squatch]

Just reread your post. You might check your gaskets on that adaptor. Those plate adapters for spreadbore manifolds are notorious for leaking air. The rich smell may simply mean you need to change jets in the carb. These carbs are pretty forgiving compared to a holley as far as adjustment. However it may still be jetted a little big for that little 318. The factory medium settings for most these carbs is for a 350-360ci. It's a pretty easy carb to work on. Summit sells a great book on carter/edlebrock tuning that is great to have on hand. It should just take like 1 or 2 pumps on a cold engine to squirt a little fuel and set the choke for cold start. Just turn the key for hot start. I'll bet your either flooding or starving on hot start. Try setting choke like above and go from there. On my engine without the FPR it is hard to hot start. Just a little too much fuel with 7psi street pump.

[ram fan]

First off, thanks for all the help. I may have come on the problem. I realized that it was just taking too long to start, even for a flooded engine, so I figured I better check the spark. I pulled #1 and laid it on the exhaust mainfold so I could see it when I turned it over....no fire at all! I knew the coil and regulator were good so I dug out a '77 Chrysler Factory Service Manual (for the car line up) and read up on the electronic ignition. After reading about the ECU, I thought I better check it out. So just for kicks, I pulled an old Chrysler unit out of a '74 parts truck and installed it. The engine didn't turn over twice and it was running with a white hot spark on the plug. It's a far chance, but I'm wondering if the ECU was dying out just at the time I reset the carb, making me think I've been having carb trouble the whole time. I'll still keep an eye on the carb, but I think I found the problem.
I will say this whether it's ECU related or not. Up until now it would start pretty decent right off, but the hotter the engine got, the harder it was to start. Once it was up to operating temp, it was next to impossible to start. After I put the ECU in today, I didn't have time to drive it around. I did start it a few times and she fired right up. I'll drive it around the next few days and see how it does. I'll keep you posted.

[tinner12002]

I have the same carb on an eldebrock manifold. I ended up using an manual elec fuel pump to solve the problem that I think, is the stock mech pump bleeding off pres and letting fuel drain back to the tank. So you might check your mech fuel pump to make sure its in good shape.

[ram fan]

You guys have a good point about an electric fuel pump. The one on my truck should be fine, it was new last fall. I like the idea of an electric pump though.

[ddarnell]

I HAD the same carb on my 76W200 w/360. I could not get it to run right. Swapped a known good TQ and it's been running great ever since. Still don't know what the problem is with 1406
David