I want to replace the frame crossmember just forward of the rear axle because mine is rusted and pitted and have found a suitable replacement from a 5/4 ton army parts truck. The cross members are riveted from the factory. I was thinking a grinder with a cutting wheel would be the best way to remove them. As for re-attachment, grade 8 bolts. I hate to do this but alot of the same cross members [in front of the rear axle] I've seen on trucks from my area are rusted badly, but for some reason this seems to be the only cross member to rust like this. Am I making a mistake in thinking of replacing it because I'll be cutting factory rivets to do so? Is a moderately rusted but riveted k-member stronger than a rust free but bolted k-member?
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Originally posted by QuantumJo View PostWhen I removed cross members from my 79 W300 I used an Oxy-acetylene torch. I got the rivet head red hot and hammered it off with a chisel. It was suggested to me to use huck bolts in replacement of the rivets.Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?
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Originally posted by DODGEBOYS View Postquick and easy with no torch mess is cut an X in the head of the rivet with a cut-off wheel and then air chisel the heads offPower Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?
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Originally posted by QuantumJo View PostPower Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.
Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?
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I was at the military junkyard again yesterday, I and think the grade 8 is the way I'm going to go. I picked up a front valance panel [grille extension] because I was shocked to find my was bad on the driver's side. Bad case of tinworms, and I tried to fill in with mig welder, but the metal just blew away and the holes got bigger! MAJOR score on NOS right side inner fender, so I bought it at a great price even though I don't think I'll need it. Paint work is coming along nicely now!
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