M880 down for the count...

[KRB64]

The B-3 has resumed farm duty since the M880 has been sitting by the barn for about a month now. Rusted out brake lines and 5 broken rear springs (among a multitude of other minor things)...

Finally got her pulled into the shop and the bed off (I have a steel flat that I'm fixing up to replace the rusted out box).

I plan to run new brake lines, replace the springs (plus add a set of overloads I found in the junk yard), replace rear pinion seal and sand blast and paint the frame that I can reach.

While I'm doing all that I need to pull the fuel sending unit which has never worked in the 15 years I've owned it. Any tricks to removing and re-installing that thing? It's been sitting in penetrating oil for several days now. Any suggestions on a good new one?

Anything else I ought to do while the chassis is necked?

[Gordon Maney]

I don't understand exactly what has been sitting in penetrant. What are you saying?

[KRB64]

Well really everything that needs to come off but mainly the fuel sending unit on top of the fuel tank. It has all those little bitty screws that I just know are going to round off when I try to back them out.

The frame has a lot of scaley rust. Its still good enough but has lost a little thickness I'm sure. Back in '98 we had a flood (I'm sounding like an old timer now...) that left about a foot of river mud on our road and I had to drive through it for a couple days before the county came by with a grader. Then the flood of '02 put another fresh coat on there. That stuff stuck to the frame and is still on there. I'll scrape it, sand blast it and then coat with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator (did the same for the flat already).

This truck did fine for many years then all the sudden it just seemed to rust out everywhere bodywise. Course it was the main transportation when snow & ice hit so it saw its share of salt which KY throws down everytime it even spits snow.

[Don Williams]

I just replaced the fuel sending unit my '77 M886. You might be surprised that the screws come out easier than expected - mine did. I recommend an impact screw driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) to break them loose.

Dodge part number for new sending unit -- 4240277

Ebay item number -- 280534304928

They are on national back order from Dodge so I would grab one on Ebay quickly if you are ready. The price is better than the Dodge dealer also.

[KRB64]

You are right, I was suprised! I had to clean out the slots on the head with a pick but they backed right out with just a regular screw driver. I wasn't prepared for that.

The pickup/float assembly looks brand new so I guess I'll have to trace back my wiring. Ground may have been an issue too.

Shock mount was a different story though. All came loose except the bottom right which snapped right off. Haven't investigated to see if that can be pressed out or has to be welded.

[Don Williams]

You can test the sending unit with an ohmmeter. The resistance should change smoothly as you move the float through its arc. I think the numbers are in the range of 20 - 120 ohms but don't quote me on that. I'm sure someone here knows the correct values. If you see things like a short, open, high numbers, dead spots, etc. I would replace the unit. Email me if you need any help with this.

hanktm@bellsouth.net

[712edf]

73 Ohms empty tank
8-12 Ohms full tank

Bucky

[KRB64]

Thanks guys.

I will contact you about the ohm meter stuff, just to make sure I do it right. ABout all I'm comfortable with my multimeter is checking voltage.

Hope to start replacing leaves this weekend. Then I'm gone to the North American Livestock Exhibition all next week so it'll be the following weekend before I can do any more.

[Gordon Maney]

Thanks guys.

I will contact you about the ohm meter stuff, just to make sure I do it right. ABout all I'm comfortable with my multimeter is checking voltage.

Hope to start replacing leaves this weekend. Then I'm gone to the North American Livestock Exhibition all next week so it'll be the following weekend before I can do any more.

You mention comfort. You can't hurt anything doing a resistance check. Just make sure the battery is disconnected on the vehicle in question and you can't hurt anything.

Just for fun, set the multimeter to the resistance measuring [ohmmeter mode] and touch the leads together. It will indicate continuity. Then test some other things, like a paper clip and also a non conductor like a rubber band. Experiment a bit. You will be comfortable in no time.

If you have a number of scales on this ohm meter, set it on one of the more sensitive ones and check for continuity through yourself by gripping the points of the leads, one in each hand.

[KRB64]

Didin't even think about disconnecting the battery first, thanks.

Um, ohms are the upside down horse shoe thingy right? :)

[KRB64]

Ebay item number -- 280534304928

They are on national back order from Dodge so I would grab one on Ebay quickly if you are ready. The price is better than the Dodge dealer also.

$147 shipped. Ouch. Is that what you ended up getting?

[Don Williams]

Yes that's the one I got. Dealer price was around $180. Not cheap but today I saw all my gauges working for the first time.

[KRB64]

... Not cheap but today I saw all my gauges working for the first time.

That would be nice!

I hope to rewire the amp gauge while I'm at it but will probably run out of patience.

[KRB64]

Found an OEM sending unit on ebay. Should be here next week.

[KRB64]

Update

Well so far here's what I've done:

sandblasted the frame
painted with rust converter epoxy
replaced fuel sending unit
replaced fuel lines
replaced brake lines

Still need to:
replace broken leaves
add overload spring pack
intall flatbed
re-wire tail lights etc

Maybe get the springs done today...