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Replacing rotors on a 75 W200

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  • Replacing rotors on a 75 W200

    I've done plenty of brake jobs but I don't remember replacing rotors on a full time 4 wheel drive truck. What is involved with removing the rotors? I know the axle nut has to be removed but is there something else? Like the inside hub bolts accessible through the hole in the rotor? My last full time was my 78 W200 which I haven't seen since '86.

  • #2
    This is from memory...

    I can check the manual at the shop later but from what I recall, you are correct, you've got those little hub bolts through that little hole you lube the bearings with. I believe I bought a special narrow wall socket to fit through there. I can see what size it is, its at the shop too...

    Thats all I recall that was different about getting in there, but its been a while too.
    1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
    1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
    1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
    2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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    • #3
      Its a deep well, thin wall, 1/4" drive, 3/8" 12 point socket. Thats what I use anyway. Craftsman # 43596.
      1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
      1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
      1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
      2005 Jeep KJ CRD

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Ron in Indiana View Post
        I've done plenty of brake jobs but I don't remember replacing rotors on a full time 4 wheel drive truck. What is involved with removing the rotors? I know the axle nut has to be removed but is there something else? Like the inside hub bolts accessible through the hole in the rotor? My last full time was my 78 W200 which I haven't seen since '86.
        I may be a bit newer than the project you are working on here. I would say stick with the info that KBB posted up as it seems he has recent experience with these guys.
        Last edited by MoparFreak69; 02-20-2011, 12:34 PM. Reason: Information did not apply

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        • #5
          Originally posted by KRB64 View Post
          I can check the manual at the shop later but from what I recall, you are correct, you've got those little hub bolts through that little hole you lube the bearings with. I believe I bought a special narrow wall socket to fit through there. I can see what size it is, its at the shop too...

          Thats all I recall that was different about getting in there, but its been a while too.

          Yep, he's right

          excerpt from a conversion website;
          When a Dodge full-time wheel end goes bad, it's not usually just the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing floats inside the steering knuckle and is held in place by a bearing retainer. This retainer is held in place by six 12 point bolts (a special socket is required to remove them). The bolts are accessible through a hole in the face of the hub and rotor assembly. Once the retainer bolts, brake caliper and outer axle shaft retaining nut are removed, you can grasp the rotor and pull the whole package out of the knuckle. It is rare that it comes out in one piece. The inner wheel bearing will usually stay behind in the steering knuckle, that's bad! It means one of two things, the wheel hub is spun or the steering knuckle bearing pocket is wallowed out and the hub is spun.

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          • #6
            That is what I thought it would take. The rotor is toasted BADLY. The inner face is all but gone. I knew about the hole for greasing the hubs from my 78. I can see the bolts from the back side and they are 12 point. Fortunately I have 12 point sockets. I assuming from condition of the brakes that the hubs weren't greased much if all at all so it's just as well it comes off. Hopefully the pocket isn't wallowed out. I'll update as soon as I get it apart. Now to located rotors and hubs.

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            • #7
              My dad has a busted D44 that may have good rotors and hub, at least it did before the wreck... Its in Central KY.
              1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
              1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
              1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
              2005 Jeep KJ CRD

              Comment


              • #8
                I removed the hubs with rotors today with no problems. The 6 bolts came out fine, as did the wheel studs. I took the assembly to my local machine to have him try to press the hub off the center. If he can it will save a lot of money. I also removed the rear drums and although they had some wear left in the shoes they will get the full treatment. I also found the tie rod is bent and will be looking for one I suspect. This is a 3500# rated axle making it a D44.

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                • #9
                  Gee, Ron, I'm glad you're doing this now...

                  ..as I will be doing the same thing as soon as it warms up around here! I hope all I end up doing is an inspection, though.
                  When I bought mine, the guy threw in some brackets to convert the rear drums to calipers. Said I'd need some GM hardware, too...

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                  • #10
                    You can put ton shoes (and even ton pistons) in the stock drums if you're looking for more braking surface. Thats what I did to my CTD but just the shoes, not the pistons, I was sorried about too much and locking the rears prematurely.
                    1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                    1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                    1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                    2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by chewie View Post
                      ..as I will be doing the same thing as soon as it warms up around here! I hope all I end up doing is an inspection, though.
                      When I bought mine, the guy threw in some brackets to convert the rear drums to calipers. Said I'd need some GM hardware, too...
                      The left rotor was fried due to a stuck caliper. The pads had been replaced since the cad plating was still shiny but the inside drivers was down to metal on metal. I think the 12" brakes on the rear are more than sufficient for what this truck will see. The only thing I've read about swapping to rear discs is using a good proportioning valve.

                      I did find that Autozone has remanned power steering boxes and pumps plus new hoses. I'm thinking this is the way to go vs the junkyard route. The steering box lists at $200. I'll get the brakes squared away and move on to the steering. Plenty of bodywork on this one too. No rust just dents

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                      • #12
                        I used a PS pump and unit out of the yard. From an RC I think.

                        I'd like rear calipers on the CTD but I just can't get over the thought of using GM parts...

                        Let me know if you need that caliper/hub, otherwise its going to the scrap yard. The axle tube broke at the pumpkin.
                        1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                        1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                        1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                        2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for the offer but I'm going with new on the parts. I think he can press the bearings off and back on again so I'll only need rotors. Is the tie rod bent on that axle of your dad's in case I need it?

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                          • #14
                            I'd say yes but I'll check and see.
                            1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                            1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                            1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                            2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by KRB64 View Post
                              I used a PS pump and unit out of the yard. From an RC I think.

                              I'd like rear calipers on the CTD but I just can't get over the thought of using GM parts...

                              Let me know if you need that caliper/hub, otherwise its going to the scrap yard. The axle tube broke at the pumpkin.
                              What's wrong with using a later model Dodge?
                              My 2002 has rear discs.

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