Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ignition Problem- No Spark

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ignition Problem- No Spark

    Hello all- I am having a problem not getting any spark at all. Truck was running fine when my key lock cylinder got jammed causing igniton to stay on, causing battery to drain. Before I had time to fix it, I had a family emergency had to jump pickup and go to hospital. I wasn't able to turn truck off so I pulled coil wire to kill it. After five days being at hospital returned to get the pickup and no spark. I was able to tow it to brother in laws less than a mile away, but thats were she sits. I have changed control module, coil and ballast resistor, pickup in distributor, key lock cylinder and still no spark.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
    Its a 1975 w100 318.

    Thanks
    Wes

  • #2
    grounds

    clean tight grounds are always a a good troubleshooting start point.

    Comment


    • #3
      melted ammeter

      notorious failure point

      Comment


      • #4
        matelock connector

        check matelock connector that runs along the steering column. pull it apart look for melt/burned conductors. its ivory white, burns are easy to see.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks You 74w300uteline. I will give those a check and update later, This truck has been in my family ever since I can remember and now she is mine. I just wish I would have payed a bit more attention when I saw my Dad under the hood!

          Thanks again

          Wes

          Comment


          • #6
            Ignition

            Sounds like the ignition switch is going out. It plugs in under the steering column. It is the curved multiplug connector, probably gray in color. You have to remove the steering wheel, turn signal switch, and first section of column to change it. It is an easy change out, just takes about fourty five minutes or less. To test it, unplug the old one under the column, plug a new switch in, and work the new switch while holding it in your hand. You will NOT be electrocuted.

            Comment


            • #7
              It may be that a fuseable link blew. Just something else that sometimes gets forgotton.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by greg rider View Post
                it may be that a fuseable link blew. Just something else that sometimes gets forgotton.
                x2

                What else isn't working? That will help narrow it down some.
                1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sorry it took me so long to get back. I finally got frustrated and had it towed to a local shop. So apparently there was a short in a wire that goes from the resistor to the coil and the resistor was missing the jump wire that goes on the bottom two prongs. I guess this had happened before because there was another wire that was direct from the battery to a toggle switch then to coil, that is why I was still getting power to the coil.

                  What took me several hours spanning a few days, only took a pro a couple of hours to re-wire and eliminate the rigged set up. He also set me up with a new wiring diagram. Thanks to everyone for their help.

                  Wes

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X