Fel Pro 360 oil pan gasket install

[Paul in MN]

Hi Dodge Experts,

The 88 W 350 I recently bought has an engine oil pan seeping from a rust pit. Not that I cared about a small amount of oil loss, but I was worried about the possibility that the pan might have lots of leaks soon. So I bought it a new pan today (aftermarket "Spectra Precision"). The new pan looks good, well formed and of good gauge metal. So I got the Fel Pro gasket (4 piece) for this application. But.....what the heck holds the rear rubber piece in place during installation?? The front rubber piece has 2 bullet tits that fit locating holes in the pan, and side lips to keep it centered on the lip of the pan during install. The 2 side pieces are cork, and I intend to put down a thin layer of black RTV on the pan surface to hold these side pieces in place for install. I was planning on not using RTV on both sides of the cork, but maybe that is a mistake.

I am working off a dirt floor in below freezing temps, so I sure don't want to do this job the 2nd time. Please share your tips for a successful install. How to hold the rear rubber piece in place really is the big question. Judging by the oil wash on the rear outside of the oil pan, the previous gasket installer had a similar problem. The lip on the pan going around the rear main and seal is only a bit over 1/4" wide, maybe 3/8" with a small raised rib in its center. The mating rubber gasket is flat where it mates this rib, and has no side lips to hold it in place.

Thanks for your advice!

Paul in MN
88 W 350
360 w/727 & 205

[KRB64]

I only use RTV as a last resort or if the manual says to.

I've always just used a lite smear of some heavy gear grease to hold gaskets in place.

[Paul in MN]

Job Done

A buddy who is a mechanical engineer and an old hot rodder, helped me put this pan and gasket back on the truck yesterday. Here are some of the tips we discovered by trial and error. I submit this as possible help for the next guy dealing with this engine and truck body.

1. Even though you can get the pan out without lifting the engine or removing the starter, I do not think you can get the new one in place without lifting the engine about 1/2" at the front, and pulling off the starter and flex plate shield. By leaving the flex plate shield in place, the job becomes much more difficult and risks getting crud into the new clean pan and on the gasket surfaces.

2. Turn the crankshaft so that you maximize the clearance at the front of the pan and block. You do not want a conn rod extending into the pan area.

3. If you need to get brutal in getting the old pan broke free from the block (PO had gasket sealer on both sides of the pan gasket, and it was not going to budge without getting brutal), hit the pan only on the right side (not the starter side). The pan and the oil pump just about touch each other inside of the pan on the left rear corner. So any blows to the pan at that corner are transferred directly to the oil pump. I finally broke 'er loose with a 4 ft 2x4 slid in between truck frame and back end of right front spring. And then BFH'ed the heck out of it.

4. The Fel Pro gasket technique that worked was to place the front rubber seal on the pan (with its side lips and 2 locating titts) and Mopar service manual advised using RTV at the top corners of that gasket. And place the side cork gaskets on the pan rails with your favorite stick'em. To be absolutely sure the side gaskets did not migrate, I used sewing thread through the bolt holes and around the gasket so that it would not move if we bumped it while getting it in place. The real challenge and secret to this install is the rear rubber piece. There is a groove in the rear main/seal casting (still on the block) to accept this rubber piece. So put this piece of rubber gasket in the groove with RTV at the top corners (again per Mopar book). Finally, raise the pan with 3 pieces of gasket (front and sides) attached to the pan. Bolt it up and hope the PO did not strip the threads on the right front pan bolt (it is the hardest one to get to). My luck wasn't that good, so I had to retap those threads with a 5/16" x 18 tpi tap. That right front pan bolt is open to the top side of the block casting, so if needed you could drill it out, use a longer bolt and nut it on the top of the block's pan flange.

Yup, Gott'er Done! Now I hope she keeps the oil in and the muddy, sandy, salty water out.

Thanks for reading, and I hope this helps some other guy facing the same problem.

Paul in MN

[KRB64]

Geez, that sounds like something you don't want to do twice...