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1976 w200 club cab?

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  • #16
    Unless the transfer case has been changed, the '76 model will be a NP203. The two are similar in format; however, the NP203 has an aluminum case of the low-range box. The NP205 is all cast iron. Secondly, the blue and silver aluminum tag on the case will be stamped as 203 or 205. Third, the t-case lever will either have Lo-LOC - Lo - N - Hi - Hi-LOC (NP203) or 4Lo - 4Hi - N - 2Hi (NP205).

    The front axle on your truck will not have external hubs, unless that has been changed, also.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by rxinhed View Post
      Unless the transfer case has been changed, the '76 model will be a NP203. The two are similar in format; however, the NP203 has an aluminum case of the low-range box. The NP205 is all cast iron. Secondly, the blue and silver aluminum tag on the case will be stamped as 203 or 205. Third, the t-case lever will either have Lo-LOC - Lo - N - Hi - Hi-LOC (NP203) or 4Lo - 4Hi - N - 2Hi (NP205).

      The front axle on your truck will not have external hubs, unless that has been changed, also.
      Thanks, I have a np203 then, why does it hang down so low?

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      • #18
        The guy I got it from says it has a np205, I look and cant find a tag on it. Can you tell the difference from the two just by looking at them? Maybe someone has pictures?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by 04 Diesel View Post
          The guy I got it from says it has a np205, I look and cant find a tag on it. Can you tell the difference from the two just by looking at them? Maybe someone has pictures?
          Look at the rear. Is there a round center cover with 3 bolts, just to the right of the rear output yoke? If so, its a NP205 & not original to a 76.
          Bucky

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          • #20
            I changed the front differential oil today and that was bad, that has not been changed for a long time. I also droped the tranny pan and that also was bad, Im letting it drain all night. Is there something I should do while I have the pan off the tranny? Also what tranny fluid should I use? The guy from Orylies said to use ATF plus 4? Is that right?

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            • #21
              There is a band adjustmant that can be done with the pan off. A good service manual will tell you how. The other band adjustment doesn't require pan removal.

              I had a 727 stop working a few days after adding some ATF-4, but there was no explaination why. The guy who rebuilt it said convertor went bad, that my adding fluid was coincidence & had NO bearing on the situation. I prefer Dexron II. Some say that type F will give you firmer shifts. Do a search on fluid types, as I think it was discussed here in detail a few years back.

              I'm not surprised about your front different needing lube change, its often neglected.

              Bucky

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              • #22
                Originally posted by 712edf View Post
                There is a band adjustmant that can be done with the pan off. A good service manual will tell you how. The other band adjustment doesn't require pan removal.

                I had a 727 stop working a few days after adding some ATF-4, but there was no explaination why. The guy who rebuilt it said convertor went bad, that my adding fluid was coincidence & had NO bearing on the situation. I prefer Dexron II. Some say that type F will give you firmer shifts. Do a search on fluid types, as I think it was discussed here in detail a few years back.

                I'm not surprised about your front different needing lube change, its often neglected.

                Bucky

                I think Im going to use Dexron/Mercon fluid. Didnt have time to do any work on the truck today, maybe tomorrow.

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                • #23
                  All fluids changed except the transfer case, I think I have the np203. New floor pans came today, any tips on putting them in?

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                  • #24
                    Anybody put new floor pans in a truck? What is the best way to do it?

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                    • #25
                      I put a floor boards in a 75 crew cab this past summer. Not knowing your bodywork skill I can walk you through it. I used a pan that was close as most are cut oversize. You'll need a spot weld drill bit as it works the best to drill out the spot welds on the cross member and the rocker panel. Cut back to solid metal after laying the new floor in place and tracing around it so you don't over cut. You may find your floor is rotted further than the floor pan in which case you'll have patch in with sheet metal. I used an over lap to weld the new floor to the old. Clean metal edges are your friend. I also sprayed weldable primer on all edges. Using a mig welder you stitch weld it, jumping around the edges so the heat doesn't build up and cause problems. Once it's all welded and you've dressed the welds with a flap wheel grinder it's a good time to lay on the brushable seam sealer top and bottom. I got mine from Eastwood. Don't skimp on the sealer. Apply a good 2 or 3 coats of primer and you should have good floors again. This is over simplified but it's not that difficult if you take your time and plan your cuts. One word of caution, watch were those sparks are flying especially towards glass.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Ron in Indiana View Post
                        I put a floor boards in a 75 crew cab this past summer. Not knowing your bodywork skill I can walk you through it. I used a pan that was close as most are cut oversize. You'll need a spot weld drill bit as it works the best to drill out the spot welds on the cross member and the rocker panel. Cut back to solid metal after laying the new floor in place and tracing around it so you don't over cut. You may find your floor is rotted further than the floor pan in which case you'll have patch in with sheet metal. I used an over lap to weld the new floor to the old. Clean metal edges are your friend. I also sprayed weldable primer on all edges. Using a mig welder you stitch weld it, jumping around the edges so the heat doesn't build up and cause problems. Once it's all welded and you've dressed the welds with a flap wheel grinder it's a good time to lay on the brushable seam sealer top and bottom. I got mine from Eastwood. Don't skimp on the sealer. Apply a good 2 or 3 coats of primer and you should have good floors again. This is over simplified but it's not that difficult if you take your time and plan your cuts. One word of caution, watch were those sparks are flying especially towards glass.
                        Thankyou, this may sound stupid but can I pop rivit them in?

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                        • #27
                          Not a stupid question but the answer is no. Not if you want a sound floor. The floor does more than keep you from the elements outside and running around like Fred Flintstone. It adds strength to the rest of the cab and pop rivets will not give you that strength. Has it been done? Yes probably more times than should have. The pop rivets are tools to hold the pan in place but it has to be welded. I'm assuming you don't have a mig welder? Do you have a bodyshop or welding shop close to you? Fit the floor pan and have it welded there. But for what a small mig would cost you could justify buying your own. Flux core will work but gas works better.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Ron in Indiana View Post
                            Not a stupid question but the answer is no. Not if you want a sound floor. The floor does more than keep you from the elements outside and running around like Fred Flintstone. It adds strength to the rest of the cab and pop rivets will not give you that strength. Has it been done? Yes probably more times than should have. The pop rivets are tools to hold the pan in place but it has to be welded. I'm assuming you don't have a mig welder? Do you have a bodyshop or welding shop close to you? Fit the floor pan and have it welded there. But for what a small mig would cost you could justify buying your own. Flux core will work but gas works better.

                            Ok, I have a small stick welder, will that do the job? If so, what rod should I use?

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                            • #29
                              Unless you are a skilled welder and could find the smallest diameter rod I rather doubt it. You'd end up blowing holes all the time on the sheet metal. I suggest talking to a body shop to see if you prepped the work for them to weld it if they'd work with you. The large part of the job is cutting and fitting the pan. You can seal the edges . Any friends have a mig welder? Just throwing out ideas. Where are you located?

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Ron in Indiana View Post
                                Unless you are a skilled welder and could find the smallest diameter rod I rather doubt it. You'd end up blowing holes all the time on the sheet metal. I suggest talking to a body shop to see if you prepped the work for them to weld it if they'd work with you. The large part of the job is cutting and fitting the pan. You can seal the edges . Any friends have a mig welder? Just throwing out ideas. Where are you located?

                                My boss has a wire feed welder, would that work? Im in Waterloo Illinois.

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